I recently bought a used 2006 brute force 650 sra a few months ago. When i first bought it it had major problems starting, no matter whether it was warm or cold out, and also had a low end sputter/miss/backfire. So after reading a lot about other people having similar problems i shimmed the needle jets on both carbs. This helped the low end miss a ton, but didnt help the starting problems that much. I did all of this last fall, so as winter came around i forgot about and ran out of time to troubleshoot the problem. But, now as spring is here i got it out and changed all of the fluids, and figured while i was at it i would adjust the valves, which would hopefully help the starting problems. First, i did the rear cylinder first because it was easier to get to, which went great. I simply turned the flywheel to the TR mark and adjusted the valves, which were slightly off (about .002ish off). I adjusted the intake to .006 and exhaust to .008. But when i went to do the front cylinder, i went through the same steps, accept setting the flywheel to TF and not TR. When i did this, both the intake and exhaust valves were extremely tight, to the point that it took about 2 turns out to get the valves to even open at all, and about 2.5-3 turns to get them to the proper opening size.

Is it possible that they are just this far off?

Or what am i doing wrong?

Thanks

 

My in-laws 650 BF had similar problems ever since I could remember... Last year I took it in to my Arctic Cat dealer since the Kawi dealer it was purchased from went under... and many Cats have Kawi motors...

Long story short it is now fixed and runs great... the problem was that the valves were adjusted with the timing 180 degrees out. That motor will run that way but like crap and stall allot. I google it and came across quit a few threads were that was the case.