How has that carb been working for you?

 

My new SS gas tank is nearly complete. Until it is installed, I will not get
much running time to fine-tune the carb.

Thx for reminding me that I need to list my old carb.

My unit is an 86, not an 87, as I thought. VIN stamping on the frame is invisible.

 

There's a company called JBM industries I think that's the name, anyway they make replacement diaphragms and you reuse your old slide. They cost around 20 bucks.

 

I'll have to check that out. Unfortunately, I need the whole thing now since there are a couple pieces broken off the slider itself.

 

Interesting. I checked out the website: $19.50 + $6.80 shipping in the US.

My Chinese carb is working pretty well on my Bayou now.

 

What would even cause the pieces to break off like that? I'd like to keep it from happening again.

 

I had someone tell me that they've used a carburetor off a 300 Honda with no problems, except that it's a tight fit to get into the boot. Can anyone else confirm this? They seem to be cheaper on ebay and more plentiful than the Kawasaki carbs.

 

It makes sense.

The Chinese carb I mentioned above is sold as a replacement for the
OEM carb on either the Honda TRX300FW, or the KLF300s. On the
latter, the inlet and outlet diameters are off, so custom work is
necessary for the Kaw, as I did. I also have a TRX300FW, but I did
not do a direct comparison on that machine, which is the one I use
around my property.

You may pay more for a used and usable TRX carb, vs. the new Chinese
unit. Note that the Honda carb has a primer pump, which is nice if it
works. The Chinese unit also has one, but the OEM KLF carb does not.
My TRX300 carb's primer pump diaphragm was bad, and a new one is
pricey, so I bypassed it. Works fine, but it does not get very cold here.

Side-by-side pix here:

 

I picked up a good diaphragm and slide and put it in yesterday. It started and ran for a couple seconds and then quit. I tried to start it again and it acted like the starter locked up. I had to turn the motor with a socket on the end of the crank and it freed up easily but wouldn't start. It seemed to have very low compression and is clunking when I crank it over. I tested the compression with my tester and the needle doesn't move at all. It cranks over almost as fast with the plug in as with it out.
I thought it might have jumped it's timing but I just checked it and it's dead on. The only thing I haven't had a chance to check is whether the valves are still opening and closing. I had it going a few weeks ago and it sounded fine, it just wouldn't rev up well because of the torn diaphragm. I wonder what could have happened so suddenly? Broken valve? Unfortunately I won't have a chance to tear it down for a couple weeks to find out.

 

I hope you didn't suck something into the cylinder.

Anyway, hold it at TDC and blow some air into the plug hole. That'll tell
which valve is compromised. If not the rings.