Why does my 2014 750i stall when I come to a hard stop??

If it were carbureted you would think the float level was set too high.

And it it normal for the engine to have to rev up before the clutch engages like a Polaris??

I thought the clutch was always engaged and final drive went through a wet clutch more like a Suzuki.

 

Sounds like your belt may be a bit loose. Have you checked the belt deflection since the 10 hour first service?

How high the engine revs up before the machine moves is based on several things, but mostly related to the primary clutch spring, and the secondary helix design. If you've never installed different aftermarket springs, then your OEM primary spring is set for zero stall and should engage instantly with throttle. A loose belt can make it not engage the sheaves properly.

Kawies do not have a wet clutch (although wet clutch compliant engine oil is recommended) and therefore the belt stops spinning with the sheaves anytime the transmission is in low, high, or reverse. That's why it extends belt life to shift into Neutral on a Kawie anytime you are stopped. That's one thing that's not in my manual, but it should be!

If you do have to adjust your belt, consider this:
An OEM Kawie belt will last 4000 to 5000+ miles if the deflection is set a bit on the tight side of the deflection tolerance window, and a slightly stiffer secondary spring is installed. An OEM belt set in the middle of the window and OEM springs will go about 3000+ miles. Anything less means you're not putting the tranny in Low range enough, or you have a lemon belt, or your belt has been spinning due to looseness, or riding conditions. On my machine, I would get just a wee bit of belt slip on hard decels on steep downhill angles (such as what's found at the sand dunes, or dry wash entries) with the OEM springs and factory set deflection. A quick change to an EPI almond secondary spring ($25) and a tighter deflection cured that immediately.

If you check the belt and it's fine, then it might be a good idea to have the dealer plug into your machines computer and see if the FI needs tweeking.

 

I really appreciate your help.

I haven't checked or touched a thing since I bought it other than having the dealer adjust the valves and regular oil changes - I've never had a belt before.

If I had known there was no wet clutch - even the dealer told me it did - I may have leaned more towards a Grizzly or KQ.

I talked to the dealer about the stalling. He told me he couldn't see any TSBs about it so I figured they were clueless.

I guess I need to find somewhere to take it - I have no desire to deal with it myself.

Like my friend Doug told me a long time ago; "That's whats wrong with you Honda owners. You expect everything to work all the time."

 

I'm not 100% sure on the 2014 BF's, but on all the other Kawie's, the computer will send a signal to the dash to indicate a "belt check" at 100 hour intervals. Since Kawie likes to keep things like that the same for decades, I'd bet it holds true for your machine as well. Anyway, it looks like you'll be getting there within the next few days or weeks? If you've been doing a lot of idling in gear during your 97 hours thus far, I'd almost bet you've got a slightly loose belt. Not enough to trip your loose belt switch and cause limp mode, but loose enough to notice a change in how it operates.

From here on out, just remember when riding a Kawie (or any other cvt atv with no wet clutch), when stopped for more than 10 seconds--use neutral. It's no biggie.

I recently saw a belt change and clutch maintenance job on a Yamaha Grizz. I've been hearing all along that their wet clutch system is the best on the market. But after seeing it, I'm not convinced I'd want one. It's a bit more complicated, is one more system that can fail, a little bit less "adjustable or customizeable", and I really didn't like the grease pack design. As the belt wears, the belt dust mixes with that grease and makes a goopy, gluey mess. There are kits now that you can buy to convert it to a greaseless system, but it's all aftermarket.
With the Kawie design, you have simpler, more adjustable, and cleaner system. And you don't have to remove a bunch of junk or your foot boards to get at your clutch. Eight 10mm bolts and you're in there. It also has limitless customizing options. You can literally make a Kawie clutch do anything you want. You just have to get in the habit of using neutral.

I wish I lived a little closer to you. I'd be glad to help you. I've got all the tools necessary to do a belt job. But your machine is still under warranty so maybe it's best to have the dealer do it for now.

 

stalled once on me today - hard stop high 4-wd

100.2 hrs and no light

 

Definitely something going on...

And the belt light isn't exact. I don't know if it's just not real accurate, or if it starts keeping track 100 hours after the light is reset. But it will be coming on soon...
I kept track of when mine came on for the first 4 times and it was never exactly 100 hours. It was 105,112,116, and 122. I usually re-set the light within a couple hours so I don't know where the odd hours came from. Then I got a Dynatek CDI and it deleted the belt light by design.

 

I can wait.

I do need to find a competent Kawasaki mechanic.

 

If it were me I'd bet on rider error....

Just kidding. Certainly shouldn't be stalling.

 

Can't help with the stalling but how high is the rpm before it moves?
If it really bothersome it can be corrected in one of two ways diffent springs (Clutch kit) or adjust defection.
You may or may not want read this http://www.nyrocatv.com/techtip.cgi?viewtopic=472 but to adjust deflection is a shim job on a Kawasaki compare to my ski-doo has easy to use adjuster on secondary which is much quicker and easier.

Now some rpm before it moves is ok since if your in real nitty gritty stuff you will be in low range anyways.
You will notice in low range the ATV will move almost instantly with zero hesitation once you give it gas (I hope). Its a diffent tank animal in low range.

You might as well get use to the silly belt check light thing Kawasaki has that goes off even when the belt is fine.
Here is how to reset it when the time comes. Nyroc's ATV info website

Now I,m not out to scare you Specta but you may want these tips for future use saved in you favorites. Nyroc's ATV info website many are for older 650/750 and will not apply to you so don't panic.LOL

 

thanks TLC - I appreciate all that info