Hi new to the forum and new to Kawasaki, with a CDI question
#1
Hey everyone, I just purchased a 1991 Bayou 220 it runs great when using the pull rope. After some electrical work new bat, start circuit relay, I got the start button to crank the engine. But it won't start using the electric start.
Here is my description when cranking the engine with the starter button "no spark" the second I let go of the button I get enough spark for the engine to try and run. Neutral/reverse switch activates the start circuit relay and the key switch seems to work also. I think I am looking at a CDI problem since I have no spark while electrically cranking. It does start with the rope.
Question am I on the right track thinking the CDI is bad?
Thank
Ron
Here is my description when cranking the engine with the starter button "no spark" the second I let go of the button I get enough spark for the engine to try and run. Neutral/reverse switch activates the start circuit relay and the key switch seems to work also. I think I am looking at a CDI problem since I have no spark while electrically cranking. It does start with the rope.
Question am I on the right track thinking the CDI is bad?
Thank
Ron
#2
Hey everyone, I just purchased a 1991 Bayou 220 it runs great when using the pull rope. After some electrical work new bat, start circuit relay, I got the start button to crank the engine. But it won't start using the electric start.
Here is my description when cranking the engine with the starter button "no spark" the second I let go of the button I get enough spark for the engine to try and run. Neutral/reverse switch activates the start circuit relay and the key switch seems to work also. I think I am looking at a CDI problem since I have no spark while electrically cranking. It does start with the rope.
Question am I on the right track thinking the CDI is bad?
Thank
Ron
Here is my description when cranking the engine with the starter button "no spark" the second I let go of the button I get enough spark for the engine to try and run. Neutral/reverse switch activates the start circuit relay and the key switch seems to work also. I think I am looking at a CDI problem since I have no spark while electrically cranking. It does start with the rope.
Question am I on the right track thinking the CDI is bad?
Thank
Ron
#3
Thanks for the reply, and yes it does run very well when started with the rope. I have not checked "all" grounds which might be an issue because I can't get the reverse/neutral light on the dash to work. Which is pointing to a ground issue since the rev/neutral switch works for the start circuit relay and the start button and kill switch. It will not crank the engine if it is not in neutral. Excuse my ignorance but is the pulsar coil have the plug wire on it (ignition coil) or are you referring to the pickup coil?
Thanks again
Ron
Thanks again
Ron
#4
Thanks for the reply, and yes it does run very well when started with the rope. I have not checked "all" grounds which might be an issue because I can't get the reverse/neutral light on the dash to work. Which is pointing to a ground issue since the rev/neutral switch works for the start circuit relay and the start button and kill switch. It will not crank the engine if it is not in neutral. Excuse my ignorance but is the pulsar coil have the plug wire on it (ignition coil) or are you referring to the pickup coil?
Thanks again
Ron
Thanks again
Ron
#5
I think Kawasaki uses DC ignition like a car, so a voltage drop caused by cranking over on the starter may have more effect on the ignition circuit than most. However AC ignition systems do suffer the same problem, and I have never been able to solve it. Owners get used to "blipping" the start button in short bursts, one of the resultant sparks will "catch".
#6
I think Kawasaki uses DC ignition like a car, so a voltage drop caused by cranking over on the starter may have more effect on the ignition circuit than most. However AC ignition systems do suffer the same problem, and I have never been able to solve it. Owners get used to "blipping" the start button in short bursts, one of the resultant sparks will "catch".
#7
I think Kawasaki uses DC ignition like a car, so a voltage drop caused by cranking over on the starter may have more effect on the ignition circuit than most. However AC ignition systems do suffer the same problem, and I have never been able to solve it. Owners get used to "blipping" the start button in short bursts, one of the resultant sparks will "catch".
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#8
^^^^^ I have seen the same thing....and I have a theory, and have proven it twice but with Yamaha. Had two different machines come in the shop ( different days of course )....Big Bear 400, would not start with the starter, but would turn over, but kind of slow and noisy. Started fine with pull rope. By the sound of the bike, I knew starter clutch was rough...changed starter clutch, fired up every time using starter button...same for another ATV...I believe so much energy was being used by the starter system that the ignition could'nt fire....basically the same thing your saying. 

So it is 1 step at a time, check connections, it needs a new ignition switch it seems to work but it takes a screwdriver to turn it, no key, so it is damaged. But it turns power on. Installing new on today also.
I will post results later, thanks again.
Ron
#9
Thanks for the input, going down to the shop to check every connection. Good point about the starter. I have had many starters on pickups "drag" but as I said I am new to ATV's.
So it is 1 step at a time, check connections, it needs a new ignition switch it seems to work but it takes a screwdriver to turn it, no key, so it is damaged. But it turns power on. Installing new on today also.
I will post results later, thanks again.
Ron
So it is 1 step at a time, check connections, it needs a new ignition switch it seems to work but it takes a screwdriver to turn it, no key, so it is damaged. But it turns power on. Installing new on today also.
I will post results later, thanks again.
Ron
). When you have tried everything that you can, let us know as I have more ideas.....and others will have ideas as well. 
Note: The problem could be your CDI but, if all else fails, we can address that as well.
#10
Alright here's the update:
Installed new keyed ignition switch
rebuilt carb
Cleaned every connection and sealed with dielectric grease
New battery fully charged
Turned the key on and the neutral light came on (that's a first)
Pushed the start button started first crank YEA!
Let it idle for a while and fine tuned the carb, runs great!
Flipped the kill switch and it kept running, shut the key off and it kept running.
Had to kill it by pulling the plug wire.
Broke out the electrical drawing and traced the kill switch circuit. Had it running and sitting there thinking that circuit goes to the CDI and just like saying that's it I tapped the CDI with a screwdriver and it killed the engine.
Then I could not get it started again, so I tapped on the CDI again and it started But would not shut off.
I found a CDI should be here first of the week.
I think it was a good day!
Thanks to all who replied.
Ron
Installed new keyed ignition switch
rebuilt carb
Cleaned every connection and sealed with dielectric grease
New battery fully charged
Turned the key on and the neutral light came on (that's a first)
Pushed the start button started first crank YEA!
Let it idle for a while and fine tuned the carb, runs great!
Flipped the kill switch and it kept running, shut the key off and it kept running.
Had to kill it by pulling the plug wire.
Broke out the electrical drawing and traced the kill switch circuit. Had it running and sitting there thinking that circuit goes to the CDI and just like saying that's it I tapped the CDI with a screwdriver and it killed the engine.
Then I could not get it started again, so I tapped on the CDI again and it started But would not shut off.
I found a CDI should be here first of the week.
I think it was a good day!
Thanks to all who replied.
Ron




