Torque Converter Operation?
#1
Torque Converter Operation?
I'm not new to engines or ATC/ATVs, but have been out of the game for a few years. I recently purchased a Prairie 360 4x4 that had a blown engine, so I didn't have a chance to test drive it, and I've never driven a rig with this style of clutch/torque converter before.
I've installed a replacement engine and in doing so moved over the drive and driven pulleys. The drive pulley seemed to operate correctly. If I pushed down on it, it sprung back. The only other "clutchless" bikes I've ridden were the Honda 110 ATC centrifugal clutch, which operates fairly smoothly from idle on up. With this bike there is idle, then you can rev up a bit (a few hundred rpm, probably) and then the belt seems to gain traction and you quickly move off. I wouldn't say it's dangerously quick, but... different. It's not a like a hydraulic transmission in a car.
Does this sound right? or do I need to do some adjustment?
I've installed a replacement engine and in doing so moved over the drive and driven pulleys. The drive pulley seemed to operate correctly. If I pushed down on it, it sprung back. The only other "clutchless" bikes I've ridden were the Honda 110 ATC centrifugal clutch, which operates fairly smoothly from idle on up. With this bike there is idle, then you can rev up a bit (a few hundred rpm, probably) and then the belt seems to gain traction and you quickly move off. I wouldn't say it's dangerously quick, but... different. It's not a like a hydraulic transmission in a car.
Does this sound right? or do I need to do some adjustment?
#3
I was hoping someone else would come in on this as I'm unfamiliar with CVT transmission where the belt acts as a clutch. However I think the pulleys are shimmed so the centrifugal set up grabs the belt at the right revs. You have to set the belt to the right tension by removing or fitting shims.
#4
I've learned a few things since my initial post. At that time I had driven it forward and backward about 6 feet, in sub zero temps, after it has been sitting for several years. Now I've driven about a quarter mile and everything seems to be much more reasonable with respect to clutch engagement. I'm sure I was being tentative at first and things probably just needed to warm up and loosen up after sitting so long. I don't think it's going to be a problem.
The clutches (drive and driven) can be adjusted by changing springs. A stock machine (like I have) doesn't really need a spring upgrade. If I were to go with an aftermarket exhaust or other performance parts, then upgraded springs can be a benefit.
Since this is a utility machine, I can't see me putting on performance mods. I'll save that for a sport rig.
The clutches (drive and driven) can be adjusted by changing springs. A stock machine (like I have) doesn't really need a spring upgrade. If I were to go with an aftermarket exhaust or other performance parts, then upgraded springs can be a benefit.
Since this is a utility machine, I can't see me putting on performance mods. I'll save that for a sport rig.
#5