KLF/Bayou 300 about to drive off cliff
#11
Those in-tank things people call filters are more comparable to fine screens. I bet some of that has also made it to the carb.
make sure it is clean. Avoid getting any spray cleaner or soak on rubber parts and try to avoid plastic parts.
This link provides good description on how to make sure all passages in carb is clean. Even though they are Ninja carbs, same principals apply to others. I used it to clean my 4 carb Kaw Concours.
https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Cleaning_the_carbs_2
make sure it is clean. Avoid getting any spray cleaner or soak on rubber parts and try to avoid plastic parts.
This link provides good description on how to make sure all passages in carb is clean. Even though they are Ninja carbs, same principals apply to others. I used it to clean my 4 carb Kaw Concours.
https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Cleaning_the_carbs_2
#12
the petcock, and sometimes a gravity bowl at the bottom of the petcock.
I have had numerous machines where the carb is rebuilt, and the petcock replaced or rebuilt, and even the tank flushed, but
those pesky tiny rust particles keep showing up in the carb. Not just in the bottom of the carb float bowl, they get on the
float needle and cause it to leak. A well-cleaned plastic tank does not do that, but steel tanks, often.
Good news is most ATVs have had plastic tanks for a long time. Not so much with Honda and Honda-clone OHV engines, and
many many m/cs and generators. Those makers insist on steel tanks. With E10 gas, they get rusty and condensation goes to the bottom.
#13
#14
OK, very rare that the tank filters block. The problem with dirty ones like you had is dirt gets through and blocks the jets. Have you cleaned the carb out since you cleaned the tank? Look out for water in the float bowl, you will be lucky if you got all that jet wash water out of the tank. Check the battery isn't overcharging, as the 300 is DC ignition and an overcharging voltage reg can put very high voltages into the CDI and coil. It can also kill the plug. I have just heard the video, could be just where you had the mike, but the engine sounds terrible. I think you have cam problems, this also could be your trouble.
#15
thanks merryman, i haven't cleaned the carb out again, but will do so again for luck. How do i check for overcharging, have a meter i guess im looking for like 15 plus volts across battery?
Just had a local mobile bike repair guy out to check it, he too commented on the knock and using a tube reckons its little end knock. Reckoned it was mechanical as it's smoking a bit and it was revving ok but no power. Its cam or little end who knows.
Plug is relatively new and electrode looks fairly flat.
I have a spare CDI i would wire up to see if that helps.
Just had a local mobile bike repair guy out to check it, he too commented on the knock and using a tube reckons its little end knock. Reckoned it was mechanical as it's smoking a bit and it was revving ok but no power. Its cam or little end who knows.
Plug is relatively new and electrode looks fairly flat.
I have a spare CDI i would wire up to see if that helps.
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#20
Omg i just found this thread which refers to your observation on the voltage and my knocking noise!
https://www.instructables.com/id/Tro...you-KLF300-AT/
And i had to replace my ignition switch recently as it kept switching on/off all the time. Anyway would this be affecting my bike in the way it's gutless and underperforming.
https://www.instructables.com/id/Tro...you-KLF300-AT/
And i had to replace my ignition switch recently as it kept switching on/off all the time. Anyway would this be affecting my bike in the way it's gutless and underperforming.