Lakota 300 suddenly shut down. Battery voltage 13.8V. Overcharging?
#1
Let my nephews ride today. Ran the Lakota and the Bayou hard. Both running really well.
First symptom was suddenly the Lakota starter got "iffy". Then it shut down and wouldn't start. Solenoid only clicked, like a dead battery, but when I pulled it to recharge, the voltage was 13.8V an hour or two after running. Will start but it won't stay running.
Any ideas of what this is? Bad battery? Bad voltage regulator? Damaged stator?
Any thoughts?
First symptom was suddenly the Lakota starter got "iffy". Then it shut down and wouldn't start. Solenoid only clicked, like a dead battery, but when I pulled it to recharge, the voltage was 13.8V an hour or two after running. Will start but it won't stay running.
Any ideas of what this is? Bad battery? Bad voltage regulator? Damaged stator?
Any thoughts?
#2
You post that "it shut down and wouldn't start. Solenoid only clicked, like a dead battery" and also post "Will start but it won't stay running." As the two can't both be the same fault I give separate answers to both.
With a low battery the solenoid usually buzzes as it clicks in, the voltage drops and it clicks out again, repeatedly. You also get this with a seized engine. With a faulty solenoid or faulty starter, you get one click and nothing happens. Easy test for which this is, put a 12v test bulb between wire from solenoid to starter, and earth. Switch on, press start button, if lamp lights nice and bright, faulty starter, if lamp doesn't light, but solenoid clicks, faulty solenoid.
Change the plug in case it is just that at fault, If it still won't stay running, clean the carb out. If it is overcharging it usually takes a short while for the power from starting to be replaced before it starts overcharging again, also if you put lights on this drops the overcharging voltage, so bike runs for longer but it can start blowing bulbs. So, the way to test for overcharging is put a voltmeter across battery as soon as you get it running, over 15v and you have a faulty regulator.
With a low battery the solenoid usually buzzes as it clicks in, the voltage drops and it clicks out again, repeatedly. You also get this with a seized engine. With a faulty solenoid or faulty starter, you get one click and nothing happens. Easy test for which this is, put a 12v test bulb between wire from solenoid to starter, and earth. Switch on, press start button, if lamp lights nice and bright, faulty starter, if lamp doesn't light, but solenoid clicks, faulty solenoid.
Change the plug in case it is just that at fault, If it still won't stay running, clean the carb out. If it is overcharging it usually takes a short while for the power from starting to be replaced before it starts overcharging again, also if you put lights on this drops the overcharging voltage, so bike runs for longer but it can start blowing bulbs. So, the way to test for overcharging is put a voltmeter across battery as soon as you get it running, over 15v and you have a faulty regulator.
#3
You post that "it shut down and wouldn't start. Solenoid only clicked, like a dead battery" and also post "Will start but it won't stay running." As the two can't both be the same fault I give separate answers to both.
I apologize for being unclear.
It acts like the battery is dead. Sometimes nothing at all, other times it buzzes like a dead battery. Something seems funny with the neutral switch. Earlier this week, I had to go up and down to find the right spot to start it.
But now, when pull-started, it won't keep running. It will idle for a few seconds and then stall, and if you give it any gas it stalls instantly. Carbs seem unlikely as it did it earlier in the day, then after sitting for a few minutes it started right up and ran great. The second time, it did not recover. It seems electrical, because when it was running at the end, the lights pulsed to the time of the engine. I thought it was a dead battery, but when I pulled it to charge, it had almost 14V.
With a low battery the solenoid usually buzzes as it clicks in, the voltage drops and it clicks out again, repeatedly. You also get this with a seized engine. With a faulty solenoid or faulty starter, you get one click and nothing happens. Easy test for which this is, put a 12v test bulb between wire from solenoid to starter, and earth. Switch on, press start button, if lamp lights nice and bright, faulty starter, if lamp doesn't light, but solenoid clicks, faulty solenoid.
Excellent diagnosis procedure. I will follow it and get back with you.
Change the plug in case it is just that at fault, If it still won't stay running, clean the carb out. If it is overcharging it usually takes a short while for the power from starting to be replaced before it starts overcharging again, also if you put lights on this drops the overcharging voltage, so bike runs for longer but it can start blowing bulbs. So, the way to test for overcharging is put a voltmeter across battery as soon as you get it running, over 15v and you have a faulty regulator.
I apologize for being unclear.
It acts like the battery is dead. Sometimes nothing at all, other times it buzzes like a dead battery. Something seems funny with the neutral switch. Earlier this week, I had to go up and down to find the right spot to start it.
But now, when pull-started, it won't keep running. It will idle for a few seconds and then stall, and if you give it any gas it stalls instantly. Carbs seem unlikely as it did it earlier in the day, then after sitting for a few minutes it started right up and ran great. The second time, it did not recover. It seems electrical, because when it was running at the end, the lights pulsed to the time of the engine. I thought it was a dead battery, but when I pulled it to charge, it had almost 14V.
With a low battery the solenoid usually buzzes as it clicks in, the voltage drops and it clicks out again, repeatedly. You also get this with a seized engine. With a faulty solenoid or faulty starter, you get one click and nothing happens. Easy test for which this is, put a 12v test bulb between wire from solenoid to starter, and earth. Switch on, press start button, if lamp lights nice and bright, faulty starter, if lamp doesn't light, but solenoid clicks, faulty solenoid.
Excellent diagnosis procedure. I will follow it and get back with you.
Change the plug in case it is just that at fault, If it still won't stay running, clean the carb out. If it is overcharging it usually takes a short while for the power from starting to be replaced before it starts overcharging again, also if you put lights on this drops the overcharging voltage, so bike runs for longer but it can start blowing bulbs. So, the way to test for overcharging is put a voltmeter across battery as soon as you get it running, over 15v and you have a faulty regulator.
#4
If the solenoid is buzzing, then it is a low battery or a bad connection on a thick wire, this includes earths. They do have two solenoids, the first works the lock out and feeds the other, which works the starter. Could it be the other one buzzing, or both?
#5
I have no idea. It only buzzed once, right at the end. But a bad connection or broken wire fits. It ran perfectly, then shut down cold, then ran perfectly for a couple of hours, then shut down again. A dead battery doesn't usually behave like that, nor do dirty carbs or a fouled plug, in my very limited experience.
Is the "lockout" solenoid you mention the one for the neutral gear switch? That has been acting funny for the last few days. Sometimes it works fine, other times you have to nudge the pedal up and down a little to find the right spot. I suspect that needs to be checked/replaced. I need to find where it is.
Is the "lockout" solenoid you mention the one for the neutral gear switch? That has been acting funny for the last few days. Sometimes it works fine, other times you have to nudge the pedal up and down a little to find the right spot. I suspect that needs to be checked/replaced. I need to find where it is.
#6
Yes, lockout solenoid is connected to the gear pedal switch, if you turn the ignition on in neutral you should hear it click, and if you move the pedal into first, it will click out again. Don't know the Lakota but the KLF300 is very similar regarding wiring, and the KLF solenoid is a little canister shaped thing under the rear plastic.
#7
I suspect that is what has gone bad, either the switch or that solenoid. I need to find a schematic somewhere.
Thank you for that information!
Thank you for that information!
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#9
Okay.... I see the typical "Starter Relay" near the starter. I see those online for less than $10 aftermarket
On the opposite side, I see the "Starter Circuit Relay." That one, I don't see. I'm wondering if it's not a standard relay, which I may have. I'll need to search and find both of these relays.
I still wondering where the neutral switch is. I see the shifter pedal, but no external switch.
Thanks for the schematic! That should help me figure it out.
On the opposite side, I see the "Starter Circuit Relay." That one, I don't see. I'm wondering if it's not a standard relay, which I may have. I'll need to search and find both of these relays.
I still wondering where the neutral switch is. I see the shifter pedal, but no external switch.
Thanks for the schematic! That should help me figure it out.




