My Bayou 250, is NOT leaking oil ANYMORE. So now to tackle a different issue. The engine, runs great, unfortunately it does have a slight knock. I know it is NOT the rocker arm clearance. I have narrowed it down to the right side of engine, so I removed the clutch cover, and the only thing I seen initially is a little "play" when I attempt to move the primary clutch bell, about maybe 0.5~1.0mm horizontally. Keep in mind, I have just removed the clutch cover, and have not loosened ANYTHING. When I installed the primary clutch initially, I noticed I had NOT torqued the primary clutch nut to the proper spec, after I had already filled it with oil, so I thought, no big deal, but maybe I did not fully seat clutch pack, which allowed for the knock I am hearing. Any ideas and/or thoughts?

 

I would double check the clutch installation again also why did you remove the clutch assembly at first time?

 

papa hogg, good question. The clutch was slipping real bad, and it needed the clutch cover gasket due to leaking. I replaced the friction pads on secondary both metal, and the ones with pads, and replaced the four springs, due to the new kit had them in it. and the primary, clutch pack had almost no pad left on it, so I purchased a new one, and I sanded the bell smooth.

 

Does atv clutch work and pull good?

 

It does pull good. Please see amount of play in primary clutch bell.

 

How is everything going now?


 

I am sorry for late reply, Christmas and ALL. It still makes a noise worst, when cold, then gets better after it warms up. Something, I did not expect, since working on it, I have always kept in my shop, which is more or less climate controlled 7/24. I live in the southeast, so it doesn't get terribly cold in the winter, but it does get at or below 32 degrees F. I moved the Quad out from my shop, to under a shed I have, so I could work on another vehicle, so the quad is subjected to MORE cold weather. When I start it while under the shed, it KNOCKS harder, to begin with then gets better after it runs a minute or 2. Could it be oil pump related? When I had timing chain gear cover off, and started it while in shop, I thought the oil should come into the cam shaft quicker, and MORE forceful than it did. I looked for an oil pump, but ALL I see are used from Ebay, no guarantee if it works. What do you think?

 

The symptoms are classic piston slap. I can't say if it is, or isn't, but an engine that knocks at idle and doesn't when revving, worse when engine is cold, has usually been seized slightly, leading to wear on the piston skirt. If the bore has not been badly scored, or rings trapped in the seizure, it won't burn oil or have low compression.

 

If you revv engine with the knock is there does it go away?I mean just feather throttle likely 1/4 to 1/2 throttle

 

OK, so update. I replaced the timing chain and went with manual tensioner, and it is SO MUCH more quiet, although, it still has a knock. So a couple of questions.
1. I replaced the rocker arms, and NOW my decompressor arm does not open the exhaust valve to enable me to use the pull start, do I need a special one for the exhaust side? I would like the pull start option in case battery ran down.
2. Could the rocker shafts be bent? This ATV DID have a broken timing gear, and piston hit the valves. And 1 or both valves had to be replaced, I cant remember how easily the rocker shafts went through the rocker arms.
3. The old piston does NOT appear damaged so I ordered a set of rings for it, thinking the original piston would be higher quality than EBAY piston that's in it. I have NOT replaced it yet. What do you think?
4. Should my valves be adjusted to the loose side, or as long as I am in the adjustment range am I ok?
5. I put a brand new set of tires on it, and it made all the difference as far as ride and grip. Admittedly, due to plastics it is NOT the best looking thing, but I want it to be solid mechanically, and I am VERY close.