How long did it take you to do it? Are there any additional comments, tips, tricks, ideas to the procedure. Did you make the tool bonzi had. If so, how. If not, what did you use. What did you use to pry apart the sheaves? Any additional info would be greatly appreciated. I might attempt this tomorrow.

 

It took at least two hours. I took a medium size pry bar and wrapped it with electrical tape. As you are prying them apart keep pulling on the belt so it wedges the sheaves apart. When you get them seperated enough the belt will slip right off the driven pully.
No I didnt need anything special to get the pins back in just make sure you mark the pullys before dissassembly and the holes should already be lined up.
I found that getting the spring out was the biggest pain in the a** about the whole job. For this I used a piece of threaded rod held in my vise and slipped the pully over it(take the o-ring out first so you wont damage it). Then I used a piece of round tube the same size as the spring retainer with about 1.5" cut out of it so you can get at the snap ring.
When you are seperating the two halves be very careful not to damage the oil seals the manual says you have to replace the movable sheave if you do(I guess you cant just buy the seals)[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-disgusted.gif[/img]
Good luck.....

 

Here's a little trick getting the ring snap off (c clip), take a 2X4 about 3-4 ft long, lay the clutch on the floor place one end of the 2x4 on the edge of the seat spring (do not cover the ring snap) the other end on the floor kneel on the board at the same time using a rubber mallet drive the seat spring down far enough to remove the ring snap. Remember there is pressure so the spring can jump out if your not careful.
For an exploded view look here,
http://www.buykawasaki.com/site/home/

 

I may add that.......make sure that you do not get any grease or oil on the sheaves.....clean them well before installation.
And.....make sure you apply molybedenum disulfide grease to the 4 pins....just enough to cover the entire surface of each pin with a THIN coating.IT is important to grease these pins as this is the pivot point for upshift & downshift.
Check these pins while you have them out for signs of damage....also check the grooves that they ride in,in the fixed sheave.
DONT TEAR THE MOVEABLE SHEAVE SEALS,If you tear them it could allow grease to spray out ont the belt.


Good luck

 

bonzi
My apologies.....the shim I spoke of did not go under the driven converter spring...It goes under the drive converter spring.I was only explaining this for high altitude changes,NOT for belt deflection.

Ride Hard
Have fun!

 

I'm doing it right now, 7:30 eastern time saturday. What do I use to hold the pulley so I can get the nut off? More questions to come.

 

Use the special holder tool or use a high power air or electric impact.
Be sure & put the washers back on the way they came off,They are shaped like a cone,High innner faces out.

 

almost done. I can't get the buttons in. I can get them lodged in the hole, but they won't go down. Do I need to apply force? I did apply a good amount of force with a flat piece of metal and a hammer, and it didn't move. What's the trick to get the buttons to seat????

 

Your probably having trouble lining the button with the hole it seats in. I made a tool to help it's made of 22 ga. alumium, just slip the grove of the pin into the forks and slide down the hole with your finger. You can see it on my web page.

http://communities.msn.com/Bonziessite/photoalbum.msnw

 

It's in the hole, but it is only down far enough to stand up. It won't go down and seat. Did you have to use a lot of pressure to get it to seat?