Gaff,
Well I went back to the 134 main jet today. 2 1/2 turns, needle on 3rd position. This seeems to be the "right" set up for my machine. I called Dyno Jet today and spoke to one of their tech's. He told me, pretty definitely, that the 134 is the jet to use. I told him about my black plug when I ran the 134. He told me it was probably the neelde position. He said the amount of richness I was running is fine and allows the compromise for the temp changes we get here. He thought the it's not running rich in the full throttle region but more so off line and mid. He figured the best set up would be to take one of the spacers off the top of the e clip and put it below. This would be about 2 1/2 and should work well. I haven't yet changed the spacers, but what I did have was an e clip on 3 and 1 with 3 spacers in between. My friend helped me with this in the beginning and he felt the needle was a little loose and needed the other clip on the snug it up. I checked it today and there is a very small amount of play, but is normal the dude said. By removing the top e clip and the other spacer made a diff. It runs pretty good again. Short shifting into 2nd and the front end lofts up, I see what you were saying, but I was spinning in the grass too. I'm going to get the 13 tooth sprocket and then maybe put one of the spacers in and see what happens. Thought I would let you know. It runs good, but I still have the gas leak, I'll order and needle valve here pretty soon too. I also checked on the "ball joint" at the bottom of the steering shaft, dealer wants $85.00 frickin dollars. I called and Kaw. factory parts wharehouse (got # out of back of Dirt Wheels) and they wanted $60.16. Better, but damn! Not much play to worry about right now, it just bugs me.

 

<< I called Dyno Jet today and spoke to one of their tech's. He told me, pretty definitely, that the 134 is the jet to use. I told him about my black plug when I ran the 134. He told me it was probably the neelde position. He said the amount of richness I was running is fine and allows the compromise for the temp changes we get here. He thought the it's not running rich in the full throttle region but more so off line and mid >>



Try running it to wide open throttle then hit the kill switch with it at max RPM. Then check your plug. It is possible to run rich at Idle but lean on the top end. If you are just &quot;riding around&quot; and then check your plug, you aren't making an accurate assement of the top end jetting.

 

I'll give it a shot and see what it looks like 2000Mojave. How long should I hold it for before shutting it off?

 

Idealy you would want to top it out in high gear for a good amount of time, as long as practical, then hit the kill switch with it still at full throttle then let off the throttle.

 

I would deffinately put the #134 in at this time. I would fear that the cold air you have up thier would realy give you some fits!
mojave200 has some very sound advice, they call that a plug chop, it should be done in all three ranges. You will hier some poeple say use forth gear, and then others say fith gear. Fourth gear tuning is how MX racers do thier tuning, I perfer top gear because you always have them guys who like to pin thier throttle in high gear for long periods.
I did notice that a run 2nd through fith pin each gear that you will notice the stumble in the top of forth, this is what I found any way. I also noticed while playing with the GPS that the accelleration speeds climbed slower when I got near the top of each gear, and then a jet change made it go evenly.
My jetting and tuning will now be way different than all of yours, basicly because it's still 75 here and some humidity, so you all probably have to go alot fatter due to the weather up there. If you get it all figured out now, it will make it easier come summer. Some guys have it figured out pretty well, were they just have a winter main and a summer main, and then leave everything else the same.
I have some bad news though, when I told you about my sons bike sucking up a little water the other day, well the rings stuck to the piston, so now I'm scrambling to do that one before the lakota, we'll see though, that kit getting here may change my mind.
I'm glad to see your bike lofts the wheels pretty well, you had me wondering there. I had been practicing with a guy who has been teaching me a lot about riding a four stroke (sense this is my first one) And what I found is the four strokes are so easily over revved, so on the lakota my quickest track times by far come from, short shifting first and second, ride third out a little more, and then ride forth and fith out pretty much all the way.
This has proven to me time and time again how to get the most out of the lakotas power, when you get use to it you will find short shifting in second to third will pull the front end up as well.
If you could, post the demensions of those handle bars you were looking at, that you told me about the other day.

 

Hey stebob I have already replaced both of my bottom ball joints. If they get real bad they will just pop out of the thing that goes in the a arm. They screw out of there i got mine for 45.00 a piece at a little cycle store downtown. It's not fun when they come out either trust me i was jumping mine both times when them come out. stopped me dead in my tracks and over the bars i went.

 

Bigbad400,
That doesn't sound too fun at all. The joint I'm actually talking about though is the joint the steering shaft goes through on the bottom half of the frame. It's black, oval, and is held on with 2 screws.

Gaff,
The #'s on that bar is:
Renthal TRX250R 4-Trax
Bend = 615
Width = 30.80&quot;
Height = 6.40&quot;
Rise = 4.8&quot;
Clamp area width = 8.20&quot;
Sweep = 3.92&quot;
$85.99

 

Thats almost exactly what I want, so I'm going to try and get them.
The only other type that came close was the 300EX bars. Were did you find them.
I'm going to ask my brother if he has an extra set but if not let me know were you found them at.

I ported and polished my boys head on his 80, I found the intake valve was starting to suck in So I ordered another. I also ordered the powroll 94cc kit for it, but I don't have the money for the cam. Hopefully I can aford the heavier valve springs so maybe later when I can get the cam I only have to replace the cam instead of tearing it all the way down again.
What ever happens it's just putting a delay on the lakota. I expect tomorrow or tuesday it will arrive.

 

Straight out of Dennis Kirk my man. They don't have the measurements for the 300ex for me to compare. I think the 250R bend is what I will get as well.

Sounds like the 80 is going to scream when you get it done. Keep me posted. Don't worry about the Lakota, all in due time...

 

I'm so use to looking in rocky mountain I don't even look in dennis kirk any more. I'll check them out.

I think your rite, I should complete the 80 before I do the lakota.
Web cam makes three cams for it, I talked to them and a feller told me they have one cam that goes very well with the powroll kit, even better than the one powroll offers.
Then he said if I open up the intake and exhaust a little he has a race only cam that will make it near impossible for the boy to hold on to the mid range rush.
I'm not all that sure about the race only cam, we do like the cross country way better than the MX. we just mx more than xc.
He has been holding his own against the MX bikes, but if it comes to a drag down a strait, he just falls behind.
I am so siked about this powroll kit, it raises the compression from 9:1 to 10.5:1, not to mention the 20 extra cc's.
But your rite, I'm going to focus on the 80 and get it done the first time.
I already put a barnett clutch with heavier clutch springs and a FMF pipe on it.
I had ordered a one up pilot and a pack of five assorted mains, they should be in with the powroll kit by the time I get home, thursday.
Web wants 80 for the cam and 55 for the stiffer springs, I'll have to slip this one by on the ole lady some how.