Prairie 400 4x4
#11
I had an '01 4x4 that did the same thing and the dealer told me that the bearnings were to tight from the factory thus causing a popping or cracking sound in the front. It happened during riding and also when i twisted onthe front wheels. He said they would replace them but I traded for a 650.
#15
I have a '99 with the same problem, and I have to tell you, as a machinist, I'm more than a little concerned about the dealer's solution. In industry, using locktite to secure a loose bearing is a big NO-NO. It's a micky mouse solution to a real problem. I'd compare it to crazy glueing or duct taping a loose component. How would you feel if you brought your new bike to the dealer because of a broken exhaust mount and they used a coat-hanger to wire it up for you? Same deal. If the problem is an improper fit of the bearing, then the hub really should be replaced or machined out an re-sleeved.
#17
Well, my clicking came back too. I called the dealer and they told me that Kawasaki wants them to try the Loc-Tite first and if that doesn't correct the problem they replace the "knuckles." That is what they did next at no charge. It seems to have solved my problem. I just don't know why they didn't do that the first time. The dealer is 45 minutes from my house and I have had to do without my 4-wheeler twice now. Mine is well out of warranty but it is covered anyway. Good luck with yours. rick..
#18
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-mad.gif[/img] I went to the dealer today and got a copy of the service bulletin.
2001 KVf300s and KVF400s may make a creaking or clicking noise while turning in either direction. The
noise is likely caused by slight movement of the front axle bearing within the bore of the aluminum steering
knuckle(s). Some of these knuckles were bored to the generous end of the manufacturing tolerances and
allow the axle bearing race to move slightly in the knuckle under load. To correct or prevent the noise, care-
fully press the front wheel bearings out of the knuckles using a 54-55mm flat-faced arbor that contacts BOTH the inner and outer bearing races. Clean and inspect the bearing outer races and knuckle bores, smoothing any metal transfer or fretting. Clean surfaces with contact cleaner and apply a very thin smear
(about 4 drops total) of Loctite brand 271 Threadlocker to the knuckle bores and the outer races. It is extremely important that just a small amount of Loctite is used because, if any gets inside the bearing, it will most likely cause damage that will lend to pre-mature bearing failure. Carefully press the bearings into place and wipe away any excess Loctite.
I would prefer new bearings and knuckles!
2001 KVf300s and KVF400s may make a creaking or clicking noise while turning in either direction. The
noise is likely caused by slight movement of the front axle bearing within the bore of the aluminum steering
knuckle(s). Some of these knuckles were bored to the generous end of the manufacturing tolerances and
allow the axle bearing race to move slightly in the knuckle under load. To correct or prevent the noise, care-
fully press the front wheel bearings out of the knuckles using a 54-55mm flat-faced arbor that contacts BOTH the inner and outer bearing races. Clean and inspect the bearing outer races and knuckle bores, smoothing any metal transfer or fretting. Clean surfaces with contact cleaner and apply a very thin smear
(about 4 drops total) of Loctite brand 271 Threadlocker to the knuckle bores and the outer races. It is extremely important that just a small amount of Loctite is used because, if any gets inside the bearing, it will most likely cause damage that will lend to pre-mature bearing failure. Carefully press the bearings into place and wipe away any excess Loctite.
I would prefer new bearings and knuckles!
#19
#20
I'm sure there are machinists out there who do it everyday, but that still doesn't make it right. Sometimes loctite us used as a temporary fix until a replacment part arrives, but not as a permanat fix because it's still considered to be a half *** way of fixing it. For example, I know of professional mechanics who say to fix an engine knock by using heavier motor oil, but that doesn't make it the right solution. Some machinists might also use a centre punch and put a bunch of little peen marks around the inside of the bearing bore to take up the clearance, but that's a cheat too. Think about this.... locktite is just basicly a glue. Do you really think the proper way to correct an oversize bearing bore is to glue the bearing in place? I'm not trying to sound like a smart ***. I just want to get my point across because I'd hate to see some of you guys with a bike under warranty get your bearings glued in place, because the locktite may just last long enough for your warranty to expire and then you're on your own. If you are in doubt, go to a machine shop and have a machinist measure your bearing bore and document their findings for you. Bearing manufacturers have a chart with the tolerances for clearance for each bearing size. If you have a machinist say that the bearing bore is oversize, and the bike is still under warranty, I don't think the dealer would have much of an argument. They would have to repair it properly or replace it.