degreeing a cam
#2
It really depends on the amount of lift, brand, type, and if you want to get the last bit of power. I degree in my own automotive cams (Built a few small and big blocks) but, I have my ATV engines degreed in. The main reason for this is auto engines are easier to get a degree wheel on, there is nothing in the way. ATV engines are a different story. Most, such as your Mojave have a rocker cover that covers the cams. This makes it a lot harder to degree.
As for when degreeing must be performed:
My basic rule of thumb is if heavier valve springs are needed. Most "drop in" cams will be cast "straight up". Straight up means the cam isn't advanced or retarded. High performance cams that require high performance springs, should be degreed. This is because lift on these cams is considerable higher than stock. If not properly timed, you run a high risk of piston/valve contact. If this happens, the cost of having it degreed is cheap [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img].
Brand, some manufactures make a cam with a advance already built in. Comp uses 4 degrees up until their largest ones which are straight up. Not sure about ATV manufactures. My 250x cam is made by Powroll, and it is straight up.
Type is not as big a problem in ATVs since they are all basically the same. (There are 4 types of automotive cams)
Finally, having your timing dead on versus a couple of degrees off, can result in a few extra horsepower. Also, a retarded cam will tend to bring on power later in revs, advanced helps throttle response and brings power earlier.
I am sure I left a few things out so maybe someone else while chime in here. I hope this didn't confuse you more.
As for when degreeing must be performed:
My basic rule of thumb is if heavier valve springs are needed. Most "drop in" cams will be cast "straight up". Straight up means the cam isn't advanced or retarded. High performance cams that require high performance springs, should be degreed. This is because lift on these cams is considerable higher than stock. If not properly timed, you run a high risk of piston/valve contact. If this happens, the cost of having it degreed is cheap [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img].
Brand, some manufactures make a cam with a advance already built in. Comp uses 4 degrees up until their largest ones which are straight up. Not sure about ATV manufactures. My 250x cam is made by Powroll, and it is straight up.
Type is not as big a problem in ATVs since they are all basically the same. (There are 4 types of automotive cams)
Finally, having your timing dead on versus a couple of degrees off, can result in a few extra horsepower. Also, a retarded cam will tend to bring on power later in revs, advanced helps throttle response and brings power earlier.
I am sure I left a few things out so maybe someone else while chime in here. I hope this didn't confuse you more.
#3
in order to degree in your cam you need some sort of offset device that will move the cam gears a little off the normal holding pin position. I do not know of any for a mojave without custom making them.
If you buy an aftermarket cam and install it correctly by the factory timing marks, you will be just fine without degreeing it.
A stretched chain will make your timing a little retarded however. So i would suggest a new chain when you put in the new cams, especially if you change to stronger valve springs. Make sure you use a manual, timing the cams on a mojave requires lining up the crank and one cam with the marks and counting the teeth on the chain to the other cam mark. properly using the manual will ensure you get it right, piston hitting valve is result of a goof.
If you buy an aftermarket cam and install it correctly by the factory timing marks, you will be just fine without degreeing it.
A stretched chain will make your timing a little retarded however. So i would suggest a new chain when you put in the new cams, especially if you change to stronger valve springs. Make sure you use a manual, timing the cams on a mojave requires lining up the crank and one cam with the marks and counting the teeth on the chain to the other cam mark. properly using the manual will ensure you get it right, piston hitting valve is result of a goof.
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MikeyBoyesq
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Aug 10, 2015 11:11 AM
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