Still havent got the right jetting
#1
I am trying to get the right jetting and i am know running a 136.3 with two spacers under the needle it idles fine when it is cold but if i ride it a few miles and it get warm it doesnt want to idle that is probable the idle screw but it also has a few mid range notches in the power band i have invested about 50$ in jets and many hours into this carb i just want to get it right this time any suggestions
and the idle mixture screw is the one bottom of the carb right
2 turns out right
and the idle mixture screw is the one bottom of the carb right
2 turns out right
#3
What does it do when you hold it wide open? Where does the owner's manual or jet kit say the air screw should be? If you idle bike all the way up with the idle screw, try to adjust the air screw until the engine runs smoothly. Shut engine off. Now count how many turns in until air screw seats. Come back with this information, and I will see what I can do to help.
#5
Listen carefully. Start engine, idle up all the way with idle screw, turn air screw until engine runs smoothest. Turn engine off. Count how many turns until air screw seats. See if this is 1.75 to 2 turns out. If it is, then your slow jet is fine. If it is not, then come back with the information you have now.
#6
yaeh, 2fatformotto is telling you a good way to realy dial it in. Not to mention he's describing me in his screen name, lol.
The moe is a bit lean, the 2 turns are correct on the air/fuel mixture. You must establish an idle that is constant, weather it's 600 rpm's or a 1000 rpm's. Get it to idle then start at 1.75 turns, as it is idling at what ever rpm's turn the air/fuel mixture screw from 1.75 turns to 2.25 turns and back and forth, you will find your sweet spot around two turns. The idle should run up and down just a very little when you do this, try to work your idle down by adjusting the idle screw. The closer to 600 RPM's you get the more pronounced the idle change will be. I have done many moe's, 2 turns is where it usually ends up. How to turn your idle screw while the motors running? Go to sears buy a percision screw driver, what electricians call a terminating screw driver. Bend it about 1 1/2" from the blade tip and cut it off at the handle. This will let you adjust the air/fuel mixture screw from the left side, the bend will show you how much you are adjusting.
Now I don't believe your problem is the air/fuel mixture screw. Jet your main down untill the plug shows that you are lean, starting with a 132 will probably do that. Go to a 134 if you think that will get you a bit lean. There is a reason for this so just listen and don't cry about being lean, your not riding it.
When you get your main changed, remove the shims from under your needle. Start the machine, let idle warm up, all that. What you want to do is pop the throttle a couple times, the motor should cut out or just die the first time when you hit the gas, you'll be surprised, it will do this before the throttle moves a 1/4 inch. If it doesn't die, don't shim the needle, if it dies or starts cracking and braeking up when you pop the throttle, stick one shim in, do the test again. Same thing if it dies or cracks and pops while wacking the throttle, throw another shim under there.
Well once you've done this, surprise surprise, it idles good (probably at 2 turns out) Now throw that 136.3 back in and start jetting, more than likely that main is lean now, so jet up as you feel.
The overlapp of carberator circuts is alot more than you think, thats why using the stock needle and tuning to it you must either have the main dead on or lean. A fat main is very hard to figure out on the needle.
The taper of the stock needle is very short and quick, thats why poeple get the more aggressive dynojet needle because the taper is much less progressive and covers a longer throttle radius.
Hope some of this made sense, and it realy works better than running plug chops. It actually should be done and then plug chops should be done after this as well.
The moe is a bit lean, the 2 turns are correct on the air/fuel mixture. You must establish an idle that is constant, weather it's 600 rpm's or a 1000 rpm's. Get it to idle then start at 1.75 turns, as it is idling at what ever rpm's turn the air/fuel mixture screw from 1.75 turns to 2.25 turns and back and forth, you will find your sweet spot around two turns. The idle should run up and down just a very little when you do this, try to work your idle down by adjusting the idle screw. The closer to 600 RPM's you get the more pronounced the idle change will be. I have done many moe's, 2 turns is where it usually ends up. How to turn your idle screw while the motors running? Go to sears buy a percision screw driver, what electricians call a terminating screw driver. Bend it about 1 1/2" from the blade tip and cut it off at the handle. This will let you adjust the air/fuel mixture screw from the left side, the bend will show you how much you are adjusting.
Now I don't believe your problem is the air/fuel mixture screw. Jet your main down untill the plug shows that you are lean, starting with a 132 will probably do that. Go to a 134 if you think that will get you a bit lean. There is a reason for this so just listen and don't cry about being lean, your not riding it.
When you get your main changed, remove the shims from under your needle. Start the machine, let idle warm up, all that. What you want to do is pop the throttle a couple times, the motor should cut out or just die the first time when you hit the gas, you'll be surprised, it will do this before the throttle moves a 1/4 inch. If it doesn't die, don't shim the needle, if it dies or starts cracking and braeking up when you pop the throttle, stick one shim in, do the test again. Same thing if it dies or cracks and pops while wacking the throttle, throw another shim under there.
Well once you've done this, surprise surprise, it idles good (probably at 2 turns out) Now throw that 136.3 back in and start jetting, more than likely that main is lean now, so jet up as you feel.
The overlapp of carberator circuts is alot more than you think, thats why using the stock needle and tuning to it you must either have the main dead on or lean. A fat main is very hard to figure out on the needle.
The taper of the stock needle is very short and quick, thats why poeple get the more aggressive dynojet needle because the taper is much less progressive and covers a longer throttle radius.
Hope some of this made sense, and it realy works better than running plug chops. It actually should be done and then plug chops should be done after this as well.
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