Kaw 650Black Box
#11
#12
#13
The faster I go the behinder I get lol, It was very nice talking with you oldmanwheeler and you are on the list as soon as we get the c.d.i finished, please bear with me everyone. It is no hoax, we sent five prototype boxes to Canada, they were not nearly as dialed in as they are now and they could not believe the difference in power especially between 5,000 and 6,500 r.p.m, I never thought this would get back to America, I guess this is the information age. I have been working night and day to get caught up on the snorkels and finishing the filter system for the clutch, then I will get back on the c.d.i full time guys I promise. It will be the third product we offer for the Prairie and not the last. Mike Penland has jumped on board giving us a hand with the c.d.i, his knowledge of the Prairie is invaluable and will be a big asset to our development.
Bearman
Bearman
#14
In a previous post, it said that it was neccessary to rejet after installing the black box. Why is that? I thought that it was only neccessary to rejet if changing fuel/air flow. Doesn't the cdi just affect timing? Or does it somehow affect fuel flow as well?
The reason I'm asking was because I bought the extended warranty for my 650, and I really didn't want to do any rejetting or engine mods untill the warranty is up. (don't want to void warranty). I was hoping that the cdi would be something I could just plug in and go, and if I needed warranty work I could swap the original cdi box back in real fast.
The reason I'm asking was because I bought the extended warranty for my 650, and I really didn't want to do any rejetting or engine mods untill the warranty is up. (don't want to void warranty). I was hoping that the cdi would be something I could just plug in and go, and if I needed warranty work I could swap the original cdi box back in real fast.
#16
But the thing is that if I rejet to compensate for another mod, then the jet sizing won't be anywhere near the stock or kawi recommended jet sizes. The dealers in my area stink and most don't even know aftermarket stuff exists. I wish I could find a local dealer that wouldn't give me trouble.
I'm still wondering though why a rejet is needed for a cdi box upgrade?
I'm still wondering though why a rejet is needed for a cdi box upgrade?
#17
As IT was expained to me by Gaff I think. That the factory jets go by a different type measurement system for the numbers on the jets than an after market jet so you can't go by the jetting sizes on the jets. It Doesn't matter what the jet sizes are just so you aren't running to lean or rich.
If you are just running factory jets the jetting recomendations are for as they come fromt the factory if they would have a better muffler and air box then they would been jetted different to allow for it and the range would be all together different agian the range I think is just a refference. Like I said it doesn't matter so long as you aren't running lean or to rich.
If you are just running factory jets the jetting recomendations are for as they come fromt the factory if they would have a better muffler and air box then they would been jetted different to allow for it and the range would be all together different agian the range I think is just a refference. Like I said it doesn't matter so long as you aren't running lean or to rich.
#18
#19
LT,
as far as the warranty, mine says " LIMITATIONS" the warranty shall not include any of:
repair or replacement due to accident, misuse or neglect, lack of maintinance, improper repairs, use of replacement parts or accessories not conforming to specs that ADVERSELY affect performance or durability, modiifications not recomended/approved in writing by Kaw, normal wear..
now I take this to mean the same thing that my 5 year bike warranty means...If I modify something & it adversely causes something else to fail that is related to it, (like setting my cdi box to 8K rpm when I know the valve springs float at 6800 rpm, & the instructions tell me Not to exceed 6500 rpm on stock springs) that is my fault..
but if the transmission fails, that is not related to it, that is covered.. (besides on my bike the kits with cams, ignitor, airfilters were sold by a dealer, & made out of OEM parts..) But you may need to get clarification on the limitations from your dealer on the warranty..
just judging from what a Dyna 3000 did for my royal star bike..I'd say yes,
it is a overall plan that would include
jetting, airbox/snorkle, pipe, & cdi box.. to get real good results,
the stock ignitor controls the advance at what rpm, & rev limit..
by changing the advance curves (quicker) & longer before they flatten out, it would take more jetting to compensate for the curves..& give best results..
remember the old 2 stroke outboards..the throttle advanced the spark ignition..?
kinda the same theory here, but it is controlled in the ignitor..
if you put more advance quicker, that follows the curve of the stock ignitor & lasts longer, it would
increase mid range performance..(least ways on a street bike) on the street bikes the advance curveis better on partial throttle than WOT..so that would be the one to come close to, a little more, a little longer..
if you know anyone who has put one in a street bike, they'd be the ones to tell you the theory..
I'M happy with the one in my street bike..it was some of the BEST $$$ spent..I don't doubt that the one bearman is working on would be any diffrent..it takes a LOT of work, dyno time, research, pre production gomework to get these right..
you are altering ignition timing by varying degrees throughout the rpm range, & increasing the rpm limit while the ignition advance stays constant at a certain rpm.. so the top end is good as well.
the Dyna I'm talking about let my bike go from 28 degrees advance (stock) with a 5800 rpm limit, to 36 degrees advance with a 6500 rpm limit, I'm running 34 degrees on it now, as it seems to run better here with the stock cams.
the rpm limiter on this one goes up to 8K, but the stock valve springs float at 6800 or so... needles to say it is a lot of work.. to change these..so I decided not to..
Bearman..put me on that list for one (ignitor) as well...(it will keep the snorkle I ordered yesterday company)
as far as the warranty, mine says " LIMITATIONS" the warranty shall not include any of:
repair or replacement due to accident, misuse or neglect, lack of maintinance, improper repairs, use of replacement parts or accessories not conforming to specs that ADVERSELY affect performance or durability, modiifications not recomended/approved in writing by Kaw, normal wear..
now I take this to mean the same thing that my 5 year bike warranty means...If I modify something & it adversely causes something else to fail that is related to it, (like setting my cdi box to 8K rpm when I know the valve springs float at 6800 rpm, & the instructions tell me Not to exceed 6500 rpm on stock springs) that is my fault..
but if the transmission fails, that is not related to it, that is covered.. (besides on my bike the kits with cams, ignitor, airfilters were sold by a dealer, & made out of OEM parts..) But you may need to get clarification on the limitations from your dealer on the warranty..
just judging from what a Dyna 3000 did for my royal star bike..I'd say yes,
it is a overall plan that would include
jetting, airbox/snorkle, pipe, & cdi box.. to get real good results,
the stock ignitor controls the advance at what rpm, & rev limit..
by changing the advance curves (quicker) & longer before they flatten out, it would take more jetting to compensate for the curves..& give best results..
remember the old 2 stroke outboards..the throttle advanced the spark ignition..?
kinda the same theory here, but it is controlled in the ignitor..
if you put more advance quicker, that follows the curve of the stock ignitor & lasts longer, it would
increase mid range performance..(least ways on a street bike) on the street bikes the advance curveis better on partial throttle than WOT..so that would be the one to come close to, a little more, a little longer..
if you know anyone who has put one in a street bike, they'd be the ones to tell you the theory..
I'M happy with the one in my street bike..it was some of the BEST $$$ spent..I don't doubt that the one bearman is working on would be any diffrent..it takes a LOT of work, dyno time, research, pre production gomework to get these right..
you are altering ignition timing by varying degrees throughout the rpm range, & increasing the rpm limit while the ignition advance stays constant at a certain rpm.. so the top end is good as well.
the Dyna I'm talking about let my bike go from 28 degrees advance (stock) with a 5800 rpm limit, to 36 degrees advance with a 6500 rpm limit, I'm running 34 degrees on it now, as it seems to run better here with the stock cams.
the rpm limiter on this one goes up to 8K, but the stock valve springs float at 6800 or so... needles to say it is a lot of work.. to change these..so I decided not to..
Bearman..put me on that list for one (ignitor) as well...(it will keep the snorkle I ordered yesterday company)