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Progressive Suspension springs for front of 650

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Old Jul 21, 2002 | 04:56 PM
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I would like some opinions from anyone who has replaced the front springs on their 650 with the ones from P.S.
Specifically how much stiffer ride do they give and is it harsh in the rough stuff.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2002 | 10:36 PM
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I'd like to know the same. Also where can you buy them? I know High Lifter carries Progressives but only for the smaller displacement Quads. I want to be able to carry a 120 quart cooler packed to the rim on my front rack and not be bottomed, then loosen them up for normal riding.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2002 | 08:56 AM
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I added the springs at the same time I switched from stock tires to 27" Mudrunners so I can't comment directly on just the springs effect on handling. I found that I did not need any preload adjustment, it was pretty stiff with it. The spring rate is 60lb/in instead of the srock 50lb/in, I think, and it really handles better. No more lifting a rear tire on hard turns and no more dipping front end on steep decent braking. You would really have to load the front to need any preload. I have a winch on the front and weight 240lbs. and it works great. Call HL, they have them, just not on the website yet.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2002 | 05:00 PM
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So only one person here has purchased them......
 
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Old Jul 31, 2002 | 11:43 PM
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Hey Prairie 633 I just ordered mine from High Lifter. Are they fairly easy to install? Any tips? I'll let everyone know how I like em after I test them.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2002 | 10:14 AM
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Most of the time installing these springs was in taking off the front plastic. I had to replace a knuckle so I installed the springs while everything was apart. There is a large C-clip on the top of the shock that perhaps using side-post type C-clip pliers and a small mirror you could remove without taking off the front plastic. Once off, there is a large nut that I had to use two channel lock pliers on, it wasn't very tight, just large and you have to hold the one on the bottom while turning the one on top. There is one cotter pin and bolt on the bottom to remove and it slides up after you have pulled the top down and out of its' socket. Once again, I'm not sure if the shock can be slid all the way out of the knuckle with the front plastic in place. I would try this first, because you can always take off the plastic if you have to later. Removing the plastic does give you the chance to really clean everything in the front that collects mud over time. I also found a extra connector identified as "horn" that I havent looked for on the schematic yet. Anyway, the hardest part is putting the new springs on the shock. You can push down on the black plastic shock cover and shake free the large clip type retainer on the top of the shock and off comes the old springs. Then put on the pre-load collar and use some threadlocker on the set screws so they will stay in place and you won't have to over torque them. Now unless you are a world-class powerlifter or have been a competitor in the Worlds Strongest Man Competition, you will need someone to replace the retaining clip while you compress the shock by pressing down on the plastic shock cover. I tied a rope to the top of the shock and to a door **** so that it would stay fully extended instead of creeping back into the shock cartridge. You pull the top of the shock, by the rope, until it is fully extended and the bottom of the shock is on the floor, then wrap the rope a few turns and tie it off. Then with the shock pressed on the floor you can push down hard enough for someone else to put in the retainer clip. Using pliers on the retaining clip will save your assistants fingers should the spring slip in your hands at a
critical momement. Once the clip is in, you are ready to install the shock. You might could have a local shop do the hard part for you pretty cheap. I would like to see someone who could compress the spring with one hand while putting in the clip with the other. Try it and you will see what I mean. You have to move about 3-4 inches so it would be like doing one-arm tricep extensions with about 200lbs. These springs would make a bowflex machine wimper away in a dark corner somewhere. Let me know how what you think of them.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2002 | 04:36 PM
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So how much do they cost for the p650?

Thanks
 
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Old Aug 2, 2002 | 12:00 AM
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Thanks for the report 633. I think I'll leave this one to my mechanic. I'll let you guys know they work out. Oh yeah, how much time is involved in this whole process? Maybe I should remove all the palstic them take it to him?
 
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Old Aug 2, 2002 | 10:07 AM
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If you want to save some money, remove the shocks and let them swap the springs for you. If you have two people pull down on the shock cover, and a third put in the clip, it will be pretty easy to do them yourself. The plastic takes about an hour or so doing it without a power screwdriver. It consists of removing the two panels under the front fenders, the air cleaner cover (battery and all), some screws on the front wheel mud flap plastic, the front rack cover and rack, upper brush guard and headlight screws, and then you just lift off the complete front end, unplugging connectors as you go. It really is not as hard to do as it sounds in my description above. If you've ever read the exact instructions on how to properly tie a shoe, it sounds very complicated compared to just doing it.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2002 | 10:14 PM
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the pro srings were one of the best i have done to the 650 . super on down hill, better cornering
 
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