better yet bring your belt along to the dealer and hold against a new one. On your belt, look for any chords showing or spots that are clearly thinner (means you been stuck, naughty). The snowmobile guys usually find it wise to carry a spare. Be interesting to see what Kaw warranty says on this item, my guess is you are at your dealer's mercy. Best to bring whole machine too, otherwise it's easier for them to wonder if it actually did come off your machine. On higher horse sled (100HP and up), it's rare for me to see a belt that doesn't get burn off or blown off before it gets to a minimun wear point. Course that's in snow too and that's a whole different kind of load. I've also seen mfg. specs off too. If the belt looks good otherwise , and I mean good. Install it in your clutches and see if it has the proper deflection, bet there's something on Nyroc's knowledgebase about this. If the deflection is nice and tight yet, you could run it.

 

they take a 10mm wrench, sorry I don't know my metric sizes very well, and call them what ever size wrench they are. Not alot of tension on this spring, you can hold it with your hand.

Also there is an arrow on the belt for the direction of travel, so the belt is put back on right, you probably already knew this.

 

OK , shotgun , probably a 6mm bolt then, good tips you have, best to ask the guys who've done it before.

 

I have the width spec and the proper measurement instructions on my website already. The width is not an actual belt width, but a projected measurement. I drew a diagram of it to make it clear.

 

I understand Gates has made an overdrive belt for the Polaris 600-700 snowmobles, it's wider, rides higher in the primary, give more top end. To bad we couldn't get them to make one for us.

Has anyone ever done a crossover, to see if snowmoble belts are close, if they are maybe we could mod our clutches to work.

Nyroc, have you got any crossover infro.

Scott, maybe you could get Michelin to make us one.

 

Opps, Shutgun is right. You don't need to remove the spider in order to replace the Primary spring. My reasoning was to remove it in order to check my spider's shoe side clearance. If I decide to get EPI weights, I'll have to get it open then as well.

I guess it really doesn't matter right now, because I don't have the weights and my machine is running just fine now that I've added the black secondary (definitely a must-have mod).

As far as the belt width-measurement is concerned, I used a set of Vernier Calipers to check the width at the belt's widest point. I agree that my best course of action is to take the dealer my whole machine and not just the belt, but I'm not wild about letting them wrench on it again. Let's put it this way, when I took delivery of the machine, I had new skid plating installed, a Warn bumper put on, and Warn trail lights wired in. They stripped one of the four screws holding the skid plate on (meaning I can't get the darn thing off - I've already tried easy-out bits), the Warn bumper was installed using only four of the six bolts required, and the Warn lights were wired directly to my battery and not an ignition circuit (i.e., the lights won't cut off when the machine is shut down - kind of important when not having a dead battery is important to you). They were very appolgetic, but I wasn't impressed.

I guess I don't have much choice about taking the whole machine back to them now that I think about it. They have to get the skid plate off for me, so I might as well address the belt problem then.

 

Frozen, your over my head with the shoe side clearance, haven't checked that.

Direction for changing weights and/or primary spring.

1. remove belt.
2. remove clutch or leave in place, either will work.
3. remove 8 - 6mm bolts on face of clutch.
4. remove primary spring
5. seperate clutch, (will slide open)
6. change weights.

Good luck.

 

What I propose is measuring a new belt at its widest point and posting the information. You then subtract 1.6mm off that width to give you the minimum width. That should be much simpler and error free as compared to measuring along an imaginary line. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

Shotgun, how do you go about changing the weights without removing the spider? I don't see how that would be possible.

 

FROZEN,

Your weights are right behind the plate the spring pushes on, when you take the face plate off, (8 6mm bolts) then the spring will come off, then the clutch will seperate, slide apart, but not all the way, your weights are right behind the first plate, you can get at them then. You need to have your belt off first so the clutch can seperate, slide in. Looking at the manual, you might think you get at them from the sprider side, but you don't, it from the face side. Also there are arrows on the face plate and the plate below it, make sure they are lined up when you put it back together.

Can't explain it really well, but you don't have to take the clutch off the machine to change weights. We take ours off because it's easier and faster on a bench, but its not necessary.