Ok, I'm stumped and I'm about to give up for the night. Somebody's got to help me, please!

I attempting to remove my primary (drive) clutch. I have the recoil cover off, drive pully bolt removed, and the pully puller-bolt installed. Question is: When the puller bolt is tightened into the clutch, how is the entire clutch assembly someposed to come off? The pully bolt is loosened, and the puller bolt is inserted, by turning them both clockwise. Once the puller bolt is inserted until tight, how do I get the clutch off? I've cranked on the puller bolt (turning clockwise) until I was putting as much force as I safely could (any more and I was afraid that I'd strip the socket I'm using). I'm using the OEM Hook Wrench from Kawasaki to keep the clutch from turning.

Anybody have any clues? Is the darn thing torqued on there way too tight from the factory, meaning I just need to keep reaming on it? Do I need another tool? The service manual says to simply use the puller bolt to remove the clutch.

I'm stumped and I've got a ride scheduled for Sunday. I've got to remove the clutch so that I can clean my sheaves (tranny took a bath during my last ride) and change my secondary spring (I just got the EPI Black).

Somebody help me keep the dealers from getting my money!

 

It may be seized on. What brand of puller are you using?

 

Frozen,

The pulley mounts on a tapered surface on the crank. These things are tough to get off. The puller you are using is the only way. You actually have to crank it so hard you think it will be about to break. Sorry, that is all I have ever read. I have the puller, but haven't used it.

HOWEVER, if you aren't changind the sheaves, just dissassemble the pulley right on the crank and do your cleaning and put it back together.

 

I use an air impact wrench to take mine off. First time was hard.

I would suggest tightening it as much as you dare, then hit the end of the puller bolt with a hammer, put a piece of wood between so you won't dammage the bolt head.

The jar should pop it off. it will make a noise like a gun shot when it pops of.

All the puller bolt does is screw into the clutch and push away from the crank, I don't think you could hurt anything if you have the right puller bolt.

 

Hah! Hit the bolt with a hammer. Good thinkin.

That needs to go in nyroc's knowledge base.

 

when he says he has his recoil cover off, what cover is that, the pull starter?

 

akjoe, If you'll accept a couple of suggestions from a humble but long time ski-doo sled tech. Get the sled at room temp if at all possible, temp crucial. The time honored way of dislodging the clutch is to tighten the puller (glad you got a holder for the clutch, not the place for impact wrench here at all), then a series of sharp hits on the end of the puller bolt with a good dead blow hammer. No luck yet? Time to apply heat, start with a heat gun if possible and try to heat the part of the clutch attached to the end of the crank. Get it hot enough so that it's difficult to touch but doesn't burn your skin. retighten puller and apply deadblow hammer. sometimes it helps to allow them to sit overnight with the pulley bolt tightened if you can afford the time. Still no luck? From here on out it's a matter of degrees of heat and WHEN do I start wrecking stuff. You can probably heat it a bit with a propane torch and get by with it, but I would expect damage if you get the oxy torch out. Keep in mind, The clutch could come off at ANY time you have the puller tightened. So ya gotta be ready for that , it will pop off with possible enough force to spit it on the floor. If you used grease in the removal, clean it off with a good solvent , you don't want it on the taper fit. Oh yeah, and make sure you torque it to specs so it comes off easier next time.

 

dzzy, you think the impact wrench will cause thread damage? Puller damage?

Experienced impact wrench users can control their torque very well if it is a matter of too tight or not.

I have a lot of auto mechanic experience, and use the impact where appropriate. I have pulled a few things off tapered shafts, but not with the frequency you probably have. I don't really see any difference from other stuff I have pulled.

However, someone that has done it a lot might be able to teach me a thing or two. Do you say that just because some people might crank it too hard with the impact?

Shutgun, the hook wrench is kawasaki's crank holder and it holds onto that funny disk thingy under the recoil starter. The impact wrench method you used does not absolutely have to have the crank secured. I like the impact idea more. but I want to know if there are problems with it.

 

Try pouring a kettle full of boiling water on the clutch.This extra heat may help if you do not feel comfortable useing a torch.

 

Frozen, you aren't doing anything wrong. The Primary clutch is notorious for not coming off. Shotgun has the right idea. Smoke it with a hammer!! The "hit-it-with-a-hammer" method works the best. That little shock you give it is usually all it takes to break it loose.

No disrespect dzzy, bit I'd be really leery about heating up the clutch as they are made of aluminum and will heat up unevenly causing it to warp (very bad). For a guy with your experience it would probably be okay, but for a rookie, not a good idea. Not dissin your idea, but it has to be done with the utmost discretion. FOR EXPERIENCED WRENCHERS ONLY!!!