Ocassionally, when riding, I hear a clicking sound from the suspension of my P650 as it flexes. It doesn't do it all the time. Sometimes, I can stop and then jump up and down to flex the suspension and hear it. Other times, the suspension only groans slightly. I don't have any leakage or bent components and it has generally done it from day one. What gives with the clicking and is it some thing to investigate further??

Also, there have been 4 instances when the KEBC motor kept running long after the engine was off.
It made a little "hum" and wouldn't stop until I restarted and then stopped the engine. Sounds like something was sticking. Any ideas??

 

mine makes a clunking noise when im stuck w/ the diff. lock on and reving the gas. after i put my black spring in i have gotten a variety of little noises after i turn it off like a high pichted noise at the end of the ritual and the humming mine always shut off it was just longer than normal

 

this might sound funny, but try spraying silicone(clear) on the rubber bushings around your control arms,If they have been wet, then they maybe doing all the noise.

 

May wish to inspect your swing arm bearings. Over the past several rides I would occasionally hear a "pop" from the rear area of my P650. I could bounce the rear suspension up and down and unable to duplicate the sound. During my current early "spring" GI of the bike ( I strip the bike of all exterior racks and plastics, complete engine and frame detail, clean all electical connections, change all fluids, lubrication,etc.) I removed the plastic plugs from the rear swingarm. I noted "dirt" on the interior part of the plugs. I then removed the lower foremost screw from the rear differential skid plate. Out came water !! Keeping in mind the front rubber boot between the swingarm and engine is in excellant condition. I then placed the bike up on a stand to "suspend" the rear suspension. I removed rear wheels and rear shock. I moved the rear swingarm up and down. Felt fine,,no rough spots, no side to side movement detected. I then removed the side bolts that attach the swingarm to the frame. Rear driveshaft was "seized" to the rear output shaft on the engine. After some effort I removed it and dropped the swingarm. The tapered roller bearing on the left side fell out in pieces. Both bearing were destroyed. Apparently either the small O-ring and/or bearing outer seal (or combination of both) had failed, permitting water to enter the swingarm interior. Thus flushing the tapered roller bearings of needed lubrication provided by the grease they are packed with. Needless to say, I have swingarm bearings,seals and o-rings on order as we speak. I do not understand why Kawa would not have used a sealed bearing design. I can see as to why they failed. For the most part, all you have is a small O-ring that is preventing water tfrom entering the rear swingarm. Doesn't take much riding in sandy water to deteriate these O-rings. I am draining and flushing the rear differential and hoping it is not damaged. Although I change the differential fluids aprox every 6 months, it does not take long for sandy water to do it's damge. I would recommend for all who occassionally ride in water "above" their swingarms to periodically remove and inspect these seals and bearings. I will have to perform this service more frequently.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img]

 

What helps before pulling swing arms appart is turning sharp left and right on dry pavement slowly and lean out of the turn. I find thats a quick test on swing arm bearings. Also does it do it more in 2wd because it did for me. Sometimes it also can be caused by the swingarm bolts not tight enough. Been there....

 

Haven't had to change my swingarm bearings, but saw 2 other machines that made a clicking noise and had bad bearings.

 

This is what my bike is doing. On the last ride I noticed the popping sound from the swing arm area, when I was crawling over big rocks and twisting things pretty hard. I got the bike home and got to looking at things and noticed on the left side there has been some leakage fromt he bearing area. I'm sure it is going out.

My question is the following: What Parts do I need to replace, when I tear into it this weekend. I know that I will need rear diff oil, and 2 new bearings, but do I need anything else, such as seals?

Thanks

 

Each pivot side consists of "1" taper roller bearing, "1" oil seal , "1" O-ring....Do not need diff. oil, unless you are just planning on changing the fluid while it is down. A pair of jack stands are a great asset. They will make the task of positioning the swingarm for alignment/reinstallation of the rear driveshaft much easier. My jack stands consisted of my knees and my 14 year old son. Trickly, but accomplished. Also, some marine grease. I packed the bearing with marine grease and also inside and outside of the bearing area. After I discovered the design I realized that the servicing of the pivot bearings will be added to my "spring" GI service...

 

Thanks for the info. I'll be doing it Monday. Do you remember the cost of the items. (roughly) I don't want it to break the pocket book!
Oh ya did you just pull the shock, tires and brake cables, or did you tear the whole thing apart?

Thanks again. I would be in a world of hurt without this and other Forums.

 

Removed tires,,lower bolt on rear shock, removed both rear brake cables and vent tube. Cables aren't long enough to permit sliding the swingarm back to permit removal of the driveshaft. You will also require a 12MM hex bit tool and either a 30 and/or 32 mm socket (can't remember which size). Some locktite needed during re-assembly. You will also require a lonnnnng punch to drive out the old inner races. I actually used a 6" punch, inside an appropriate size socket along with a long 1/2 drive extension. The left side is the challenging one due to you are having to drive the old race out from the opposite pivot bearing side. Afterwards, I placed the new bearing races in the freezer to "shrink" them somewhat. Installation was a breeze. Used the old races (inverted) to drive the new races into place.
Prices,, I believe the cost for both sides was aprox $50.00.