BrianT, there is a small coolant hose that heats the carbs that the dealer probably messed up, cracked, or something. It has a plastic bulb on it with a strainer in it. Anyway, you should be able to see green liquid in it.

I noticed a huge difference in increased low end and mid power with the DJ kit. My top speed dropped and never came back, now I'm not sure what caused it. My 650 ran a touch faster in the summer with the dynojet jets in it that with the kehin jets. It could just be me, since I have had bigger tires for a long time.

I am going to try putting the stock needle in with small washers soon, so I can compare for myself.

My 650 ran like crap with the stock needle. Constant coughing, it hesitated fairly bad stock. Now it runs awesome.

 

Both can be made to run good. don't throw them away yet.

 

Here are some more semi useful links that describe carb theory, they are for a mikuni bds 28 carb, that has vacum slides, and butterflys in the bottom, it gives the fuel circut diagram as well as the overlap between the pilots, needle, & main, so you can see what area you need to play with. here is an article on a v star 1100 carb mod, it has good diagrams of the needles between DJ & stock
JAK article for v star 1100
GAK ARTICLE in this article it is on a european v star 650, that had adjustable needles & adjustable primary mix screws. the ones sold over here have a needle like shown hereRAK modification, v star 650 here is another good article with theory & pics as well
this is for the Royal Star now as far as shims go, suzuki makes them, they are milled, dynojet makes them, they are stamped, and some folks use a #4 washer, or a small o ring, some folks notch the needles with a dremel tool, for a new clip position, basicially new clip positions are .035-.040 apart..shims are .015-.020, so you can adjust the midrange with shims..basicially with all the tinkering I did on my bikes I found this to be true..
1) valves must be adjusted recently
2) carbs must be synched when stack is split
2) carbs must be synched, and bike warmed up before adjusting mix screws
4) too small a main will give a strong midrange but act like it is running out of steam..
5) to large a main will act like it is bogging, or slow acceleration, midrange runs better
6) jet kits have adjustable needles, but the needles are cut on a diffrent taper in the lower midrange so pilot jets stay stock.

basicially what I'm trying to say is this..
you can buy a jet kit, & get it close, or you can jet with stock mains, pilots, shim needle if need be, but still you NEED to know what affects what. as to be able to fine tune things.
I'm happy with 142/145 mains, no shims, Emerald F snorkle, twin air, and stock exhaust..on the prarie,
I'm happy with 117.5 mains, 22.5 pilots, and 2 shims on the needle on the royal star
I'm happy with 120 mains, 22.5 pilots, and 3 shims on the v star

it took me a little more time to get the royal right, but for $100 bux (includes filter) it was worthwhile..the "jet kit" was that much without a filter.

The only thing I had to go back in and change on the v star was to put a little bigger pilot in, as the bottom end was weak, the midrange & top was great..so I smoothed out the transition.

The prarie is fine like it is, but it also has stock exhaust, both bikes have rear baffle removed, probally equivalent to the nyroc muffler mod.

the carbs are easy to get at on the prarie, you can swap mains on the bike, not so on the royal..it was a 2hr process to change things around.

but the education is"PRICELESS"...

sorry to be long winded, but the way a bike/quad runs is a personal thing, kind of hard to describe to someone else if they only set it up and NOT ride it.. I guess learning about the clutches will be the same way when I get into it..

 

Mine acted weird like yours. It was the seal on the top of the carb for the slides.. Took it apart straightened it out and all better. I had the same problem another time and it was from a broken slide spring. Maybe you should check it out.

 

Thanks everybody for the help. It is going back tommorrow am to the dealership. The guy said that he would take care of it, and I am going to hold him to it. I'm afraid it might be partially my fault because I told him to set the needle on the 4th notch. But I talked to a friend today, and he said needle position shouldn't effect a wide open throttle miss. We'll see how close the dealer can get it, and if I'm still not happy with it, I guess I can alway tear into them myself. With your help that is! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] Thanks again.

 

Brian, when my needle was too rich (5th notch, no muffler mod), I had a real bad bog when I stabbed the gas quickly. If I slowly moved the throttle to full, I would have full power. 4th notch fixed this.

When my muffler got modded, and I was still on the 4th notch, I had intake coughing when I stabbed the throttle. This happend sometimes even when the engine was hot. The 5th notch fixed this. Slowly applying throttle didn't hesitate.

If your hesitation is happening at full throttle (not during the time you are moving the lever), that would mean something else.

Sometimes the diaphram doesn't get put back staright, like mtecat said.
Sometimes the airbox is installed with the rubber shield blocking the snorkle inlet. That kills top end real bad.
Sometimes the diaphram vent hose is put back on in such a way that it interferes with the diaphrams. If it is clogged, and installed tight up against the airbox (small hose bottom right of airbox, toward front), it will cause running problems. Loosening it up and letting air equalize fixes it.

 

Nyrpc,
Is the Emerald F and Square H snorkel another name brand as the Diamond G Snorkel, haven't heard of this snorkel till I seen it on Brian T's post.

Brian T,
With all this jet information you can't go wrong plus you have good sense of humour. YOU have to when tackling the jets. It is far better to test your jet modifications by yourself as Nyroc has said the mechanic can't test it like you can.

Nyroc,
You mentioned the supercharger and I am 2/3 done. I have the side draft manifold done with the 45 mm carb installed plus the charger in its mounting place. Just need to make a transition from the carb to the charger. I have opted for the 2.5 inch blower plus I have 3 other sizes to play with. When I get it together I will send you a pic or two.

Oh yes something else I am working on is a programmable 4 position CDI.

 

Yeah, I've been using emerald F (and 2wolfman) as a code word so the moderators and admins couldn't do a word search and kill the topic. They have been downright trigger happy.

They killed a topic started by Nemmeh, where he designed a website graphic (for me) and was asking oppinions about it. He got valid input. It was nothing commercial, but it still got killed just because it wasn't directly ATV related.

 

We're working on a clutch for the pairie similar to what Comet is doing for Polaris.

25% gain! But we need the CDI Box to get it to full potential.

Read about the new clutch coming out for Polaris ATV

 

Just got back from the dealer, and the Prairie is running great!! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

The mechanic changed the clip to the 5th position, and it is no longer cutting out at wide open throttle. He also tightened a hose clamp to stop the coolant drip. Thanks everyone for your help.

Alltoys, keep us updated on the supercharger! And you are working on your own CDI too? I'd better start saving my money!