I made one of Nyroc's black spring compressor tools tonight (great idea Nyroc) and have a question for a small change. I have not taken my driven pulley off yet, but in all the threads and pics I have seen, it looks like the threads of the threaded rod could scratch the inner surface of the pulley tube (Yeah I know that's not what it's called) if the rod does not stay centered while compressing or decompressing the spring. I also toyed with the idea of placing a piece of rubber hose on the bottom half of the threads.

Is this or could it be a problem? I had a tapered rubber stopper about 1" on the larg end and 3/4" on the smaller end and I drilled a hole lengthwise through the middle of the stopper. I then slid the rubber stopper all the way down to the bottom of the threads with the idea that this would go inside the pulley tube to keep the rod centered and cushioned so as not to scratch the inner surface. I also covered the bottom 6" of the threaded rod with electrical tape. Does anyone know the inside diameter of the driven pulley tube?

Also for those of you who have not made this tool yet, it was very simple and took me about 5 minutes and about $5 bucks. I used:

12" piece of threaded rod
3-3/8" nuts (Double nutted the bottom on each side of the washer to keep bottom nut from turning)
1- 3/8" heavy duty fender washer
1- 3/8" std. washer on top of pipe cap
1- 2" galvanized pipe cap
Electrical tape to cover bottom portion of threads
1- tapered black rubber stopper (1" large end, 3/4" small end. This size may not work, I will know for sure after disassembly)

First I drilled the 3/8" hole in the center of the 2" galvanized pipe cap. Next I cut the 2" cap notch with a 24 tooth new hacksaw blade. This was much easier than anticipated. It took approx. 30 sec. for each side cut with very little effort. MUCH EASIER THAN I THOUGHT!!
Next I used a dremel tool with cut off wheel to cut the back cut. I did not cut all the way through, just heavily scored it and snapped off the waste piece with a pair of pliers. At this point the cap was usable, but I used a dremel grinding wheel to eliminate any sharp edges.

I started assembly of the threaded rod in this order from the bottom end:

Nut
Washer
Nut
electrical tape
2" pipe cap
small washer
nut.

Bottom line was that it looks like it will work great and I spent way more time thinking about getting around to building it than actually building it cutting the 2" metal pipe cap was easy if you have a vise and minimal hand tools. If you don't have a dremel tool, I think you could make the two side cuts and then with a couple of well placed hammer blows, snap the waste piece off without even scoring it.

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All you need to do is use a 1/2 PVC pipe conector (you know the part used to join 1/2 in PVC pipe)under the pipe cap on the threaded stock .Also you only need cut about 1/3 of the cap off on one side to remove the Circlip this saves alot of time I bet it did't take 5 min to make and is thread safe. I can post picks if anyone wants. I used 1/2 in threaded stock to make mine it worked fine.

 

I made a compressor that is used in a hydraulic press. I sent Nyroc some pix of it(I think). It is the one that looks like a piston, with the top machined off. It works very well, indeed
I would agree that SOME protection is needed for the inside of the inner sheave hub if you use the all-thread/pipe cap comressor.

 

I made Nyroc's spring compressor tool and had trouble keeping it centered.
Didn't think about putting something inside shaft to keep it centered, so
I cut a flat piece of metal 1x3x3/16, drilled 1/2 hole in center for threaded rod
and put a 1/4inch thick 2 inch pvc ring under it to push the spring retainer
down far enough to remove snap ring. This allows you to get to snap ring
from both sides. This worked good.
The cap works good if you cut a piece of wood to fit in
the hollow shaft with the hole drilled for the threaded rod which
would keep it centered and protect
the inside of the shaft too.

There's always different ways to do something.

 

Well I didn't make the tool. I used a combination of a gear puller, and a coil over spring compressor...

 

fireguy-- whatever gets the job done! Good idea, using stuff that you already had!
Ain't it great to be more knowledgeable and can do something that most dealers can't/ won't? I have inquired of 2 local dealers about belt tensioning cost, and how often they do them. The standard answer was: "We don't, we haven't had to".... (what a crock!)