So far my sheaves have held up good, no grooves, even wear from top to bottom, but I realize they will have to be replaced sometime in the future. For those who may have to have new sheaves, here is an idea. since they are aluminum, they are not the most resistant to wear, I was wondering if we could find a machine shop or place that deals with this new Plasma coating that is appied to cylinder head bore's, Suzuki use's a type I think they call Nik-a-Sil to coat the bore's in the 500 Vinson, If the sheaves could be coated with this material It would all but eliminate wear on the sheaves wouldn't it? Or I think it would reduce wear greatly. someone that know's anything about this stuff, find out if it would work and let us know.......

 

I do not understand how a groove is worn into the faces of the sheaves. I have ridden snowmobiles all my life and they have never had this problem so what is the problem with them that the rubber belt is able to wear away at the sheaves so easily. Also I wish Kawasaki would have used a belt deflection adjustment as is found on the ski-doo snowmobile clutches. So what are snowmobile clutches made out of that they never have this problem?

 

ATV's experience slow speeds and stop-and-go driving that snowmobiles never see. Snow generally has some give when you punch the throttle, ATV's usually hook up w/o much slippage on dirt.

 

Stakk - maybe we could machine a little off the clutches where the shims are mounted. You would need more shims for a new belt, but you would have alot of adjustment. If it was machined to the point that you needed twice as much shim thickness for a new belt, that belt should last twice as long.

 

sfehr, The sheaves on the 650 Kaw are aluminum and just not as durable as say aircraft aluminum or stainless steel, SS would add way to much weight for the clutch's to operate effectivly, As far as grooves go, sled's have one forward speed as far as I know, and also the clutching on sled's is much quicker meaning the belt goes up and down through the sheaves much quicker than atv's, my mechanic told me the main problem with grooves is running the 650 in high range all the time, what happens is in high the belt will only travel about 3/4 way through the sheaves meaning the high range gearing only allows the belt to move so far when high range is used all the time, especially going slow under 20-25 mph or climbing steep hill's the belt is staying in a smaller spot all the time(almost the same place on the sheaves) the belt simply doesn't move as much in high, therefore you will develop grooves in one or more places on the sheaves allway's down low toward the bottom half, In low the belt travels the full distance of the sheaves so grooving usually doesn't happen, wear is even from bottom to top, Hope this helped...... Im still going to look into this coating deal as my tech told me today a new set of sheaves are 200 dollars or more.....

 

My dealer told me that a new set of primary and secondary sheaves would run me about $600-$700. I hope he was wrong. Ouch!

 

Stakk I posted this last year on the sheaves you might find interesting. If you have the sheaves nikel-sil lined all that will do is make the sheave slippery not good for the hole shot. My sheaves were wore on the front clutch on the bottom. My remedy was to weld them up with 5056 aluminum to almost the top of the sheave and remachine them and add 2 degrees total inclination. What this does is put slightly more pressure on the belt also helps to force the belt up the sheaves faster. Basically the sheaves will grab the V part of the belt better translating greater forward momentum. The toughest part is to keep the sheaves reasonably cemetrical while welding. The 5056 filler metal is slightly harder than the stock material. Hope this helps.

 

ALLTOYS I gather from reading your posts here and some of what I've seen on Nyroc's page that youve got one psyco quad there.Whats the chances of gettin the lowdown one the modsyouve made,things youve tried etc etc?

 

650Mountain,

So far I have had the Green Machine turbo charged with up to %50 NOS charged with dry system produced in the neighborhood of 80 + horsepower. I burned the rubber tires off the rims trying it out under power on pavement. I had to buy new tires and have them installed before wifey came home as we were going for a ride that day but she found out but we went for the ride anyway LOL.

Right now I have single manifold to which is mounted a side delivery carb that has Super Charger attached to it. This is a single side draft delivery 45 mm carb with a 165 dual stage jet that will allow me to rock crawl or go ballistic. From this carb I still have to make a transition to a super charger that is also inplace. I have machined 3 blowers for the Super Charger a 1 3/4, 2, 2 1/2 I am hoping the 2 1/2in blower will boost the hp to 76 hp at least that is in the math what will be produced on the dyno is another story.

My clutch is totally revamped I can reach 55mph in low range and 73 in high range. I have installed a titanium rear axle with chrome molly main gears only because I had a mishap last year with turbo and nos too much horsepower LOL. Oh I had to change my rear shock at least the length of the centre shaft and valveing was redone. It is now smoother to ride with better handling on jumps. I also had to put a cable from the frame to the swing arm to keep the shock from over extending at full throttle burst.

The heads are ported and polished along with the old carbs and the new one.

I will soon have a new set of preproduction cams that are better than PBR's by at least %8 according to the latest dyno reports. This should work good with the improvements to the intake by going with the single carb. I have also used Nyroc's muffler modd with 12 1/2 holes and a stepped pipe with a positive one atmosphere to the exhaust. This is as close to maximum air flow I can attain. Oh I also have a set of dial a jets to go with carb for high mountain excursions.

I have some other modds I am trying but I need to get the new cdi to do them any justice when this happens I will spill the beans. I have told a couple of people and I have sworn them to secrecy. I am almost at the point of how much is too much. I would list them on my sig but there is too much, if there is anything I can help with let me know have fun.

 

WOW That sounds to be one wicked machine.I love to hear about people hot roddin stuff on their own,not just bolting on parts,but actually doin their homework and figurin stuff out!I havent juiced the quad yet,but I am a huge nitrous fan(Had a 5.0 Mustang and a 74 Ford one ton on the can,absolutely love the stuff)I for the most part ride with guys I can obliterate with the machine stock,besides my wife would drag me out back and shoot me if I did put my new Prarie on the sauce.Have you done any mods to the bottom end of the motor or is the 650 strong enough to put up with all that power,how bout the pistons,are they forged or cast?Whos nitrous kit did you use?Sorry to be askin so many questions,but I'm a big time gearhead/hot rodder thats new to this whole quad thing(bought one for huntin,but found it to be a riot to ride recreationally.