ALLTOYS;

The TPI weights look like regular weights with three holes drilled in them, space evenly from top to bottom, the only difference are that they have more curve to them. The set comes with a hole bag full of different bolts and washers that are made of different metals, aluminum, steel and tungstun.

You buy the tpi weights lighter than you need and add weight in the different spots to get the disired effect. An example is, you could be looking for the same weight as stock, 58 oz. put heavier bolts and washer close to the hinge point, pin, and lighter as you go out. This would make the clutch grab really hard on the bottom, but as you picked up speed and the weights swing out, they are lighter out on the end and your motor could have more RPM's, therefore more speed.

The problem with the Thunder Product weights are that they are curved to much and your clutch is ingaged all the time, this is where the two days of grinding comes in. I was told by the owner of Thunder to grind in the wrong place, so finally I took my clutch off and figured out how to make them work.

Go here to look at them.Thunder weights.

 

Shotgun,
Did you copy your original Kawi weights design or modify them?

 

I used the TPI weights, which had more curve, so they were engaged all the time.
I had to grind on the ends of them to free them up.

Go to my pic's, camera on the side by my icon and I'll post what I did.

I had to grind on the very bottom of the weights out on the end, I guess I can't post the right pic's but I did post the pic's of the weight before I did the grinding.

 

I'm going to take a weight off a 360 on monday and weigh it, I'll let you know what the weight turns out to be. I'm away from home rite now or I'd go do it. I spent the day playing around with the mighty 700, still got wasted by a pretty stock raptor. The raptor was geared up so the 700 didn't have a chance on the top end. What a difference in handling and overall quality though, in my humble opinion the 700 is in a class of its own for the way it runs, rides and handles. Anyhoo I'll keep you posted. Better get off my mother-in-laws computer, wasting all her internet time.

 

Has anyone looked at the clutch weights that EPI is selling. They are called "Belly Busters" and they come in 3 different weights. I don't know which one to choose, but the people at EPI were very helpful when I called them about my springs. I will try to contact them this week.

Anyone know anything about these? I am not brave enough to experiment with adjustable weights, but would be willing to buy these and give them a try.

 

BrianT,
Not sure what size of tire or weight you have but I find with my 27inch Outlaws I use a 50gram weight to produce adiquate speed the ones through EPI go down to 56 grams they might be alright for you. What I am interested in is the shape on the end of the weight. If I can get that from you we can moddify our weights to take advantage of all the variations that are out there. The only thing is the price from EPI is rather high by the time they get to my house the charges are far to high.

 

Alltoys, thanks for all of your help. Between you and a few others, I am learning the full potential of our quads!

I am running 27" Gators, which I think are pretty heavy compared to some of the others. Help me to understand the value of light weights. Are they similar to running a lighter flywheel? They allow the engine to spin up to max torque faster? Is there any adverse consequences to running lighter weights?

I am not looking for a full race quad, but am interested in max acceleration.

 

Lighter weights will allow more belt slippage and higher RPM's. Go too light and your shiftout will be higher than the RPM's at which you are making your power. Go too heavy and your shiftout will be lower than the RPM's where your power is being made. If you really want to understand how the components of the clutch work, I'd recommend the clutch tuning book on this site Clutch Tuning Manual


Quad Pics

 

Thanks for the info Kevin. The weights they have there are sure priced better than the EPI ones. I am assuming that they don't have any for the P650? I noticed that they also had a price for custom ground weights. Could our stock weights be reground? I know Alltoys and Shotgun have been working on their weights, but that is out of my league. I could probably handle tearing clutch apart and changing weights, or sending them my stock ones.

 

BrianT

The problem with regrinding the stock weights is that they are so hard, that they are hard to work with, and you would have to be grind all 4 in the same place.


If you had adjustable weights they would work with any mod you made from now on. Plus, adjustable weights lets you fine tune the weight itself. ie.. make the weight lighter near the pin and heavier on the end or visa versa.

what these adjustable weights will do is when you wide open underload, it will let your motor go to the RPM where your making the most power, and stay there.

An example would be if we took you bike, it came stock making 42 HP @ 6500 RPM's, You added a big gun exhaust and snorkel, not sure if you jetted, if not you should. Now you are probable making around 45-46 HP @ 6700 RPM's, (a guess). When you added the 27" gators, which are much heavier than stock, your motor now can't get to the 6700 RPM where it's making the most power, because of the unslung weight you added by the tires.

If you had adjustable weights, it would be as simple as making the weights lighter, until your RPM's got back up to 6700 RPM's. You would need a tach to tell this.

This is one of the main reasons that everyone is doing all these mod's and finding that they haven't gained anything or actually lost, because they aren't clutched to the power they have added.

It's not very hard, If you know at what RPM's your peak power is made, you make your weights lighter to raise your RPM's or make your weights heavier to lower RPM's, the adjustable weights will give this flexability.

Hope this helps