650 valve adjustment help needed
#1
I adjusted my valves on the rear cylinder and got them in spec. I had the timing mark at TR and all the valves were closed ( the rockers were tight ). When I rotated the engine around again back to TR the valves were all out of spec again. Do I have to rotate the engine two revolutions back to TR or is it because I didn't start with the front cylinder first. I have no experience with valves but I won't learn if I don't try. Any Ideas of what I did wrong.
#2
Yeah, a little mistake there. No prob. You can fix that.
The cranks turns twice per every once the cams do. So, even with the crank on the TR or TF mark, you have to make sure the cam is on the right side, or you hafta turn the crank over once more. The easy way to tell if it needs to be turned over once more is that the exhaust valves are tight. If it is on actually on TDC, both the intakes and exhausts will have clearance. Also, moving the crank a little bit won't move the valves if the cam is near TDC. If the cam isn't near TDC, the valves will move a lot if you move the crank a little.
Hope that helps. There is a tech tip on that on my website.
The cranks turns twice per every once the cams do. So, even with the crank on the TR or TF mark, you have to make sure the cam is on the right side, or you hafta turn the crank over once more. The easy way to tell if it needs to be turned over once more is that the exhaust valves are tight. If it is on actually on TDC, both the intakes and exhausts will have clearance. Also, moving the crank a little bit won't move the valves if the cam is near TDC. If the cam isn't near TDC, the valves will move a lot if you move the crank a little.
Hope that helps. There is a tech tip on that on my website.
#3
Thanks for the reply NYROC. I should have clued in to that but oh well. I set them right today and then went for a good ride. There was a slight tick for a few seconds when it was cold so they must be on the loose side. Also when the engine warmed up it was harder to start than before I went messing with the valves. I'll have to take another look at them and hopefully get it right the second time around. I also burned alot more gas than normal. Other than that it seemed to run fine. Anyways thanks for the help.
#4
Just adjusted mine after 790 miles. What a pain in the butt! You don't have to remove the front plastic but you do have to remove the fender liners and upper plastic around the airbox including airbox. Using a feeler gauge isn't the easiest way to do this because you have to bend them to get them in and you cannot see for sure if you have them in the right place, especially on the exhaust. Took me 5 hours from start to finish. I was being very carefull and triple checked every adjustment. Every valve needed some adjustment. Rear intakes were tight, rear exhaust was right on the .2mm limit(tight) so I adjusted to .229mm. Front intakes were tight also. Oddly front exhausts were loose? I think a dial indicator would be a better way if one could find a stable magnetic surface to clamp it to. Really didn't change the way it runs or starts, just gave me a little piece of mind.
One thing I noticed while turning the engine was clicking sound as the engine was rolled to align for TDC. Best I can figure is it is the cam chains on the tensioners. Normal? Anyone heard the same sound?
One thing I noticed while turning the engine was clicking sound as the engine was rolled to align for TDC. Best I can figure is it is the cam chains on the tensioners. Normal? Anyone heard the same sound?
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