Was working on my buddy's son's Scrambler 90 yesterday. He told me the bike just stopped running. I looked at the plug and it was loaded with grit so I cleaned it up and ensured I had spark. I figured there must be a hole in the air filter element so I started to investigate. What a found was a horribly designed air box. The air box-to-carb boot fits loosely into the air box leaving a 1/16" to 1/8" gab about 1/3 around the connection at the air box. I asked him if he lost a gasket or something which he claimed he did not. I then looked at the parts book I downloaded and he was right, no gasket. The inside of the filter element was dirtier that the outside!

I tore the carb down, soaked it in gasoline, scrubbed it with a brush, cleaned it with carb cleaner and brake cleaner, and blew the jets out with compressed air. He told me it leaks gas out the carb overflow so I bent the tab on the float slightly since the needle valve looked good. Well I soon found out how sensitive these things are to float level. Started out with a lean spot at 3/4 - WOT. Bent the float tab slightly back a couple of times until I got a rich spot at 3/4 - WOT. Bent it the other way very slightly and it was good to go. Never dealt with a carb that was so sensitive to the float level before.

To fix the air box issue I made a gasket out of an old inner tube, which seems to give it a nice tight fit.

Just thought I’d share my story and to see if anybody else experienced this BS yet. I know Polaris didn’t design it, AEON did, but they really should do something about this. I told my friend to check out the owner’s manual. I bet is says “Not for off-road use”.

 

Thanks for the tip on fixing its car / factory air filter gap. If your friend does lots of dry land type riding with their mini, they may want to consider replacing the factory airbox with a K&N filter. For more details, surf: http://www.filterpower.co.uk/univers...ered_clamp.htm K&N filters and uni-filters provide engine performance improvements, especially with modded engines. However, the K&N doesn't like the water / mud very well. Thanks for the tip and emphasizing how "sensitive" its float level adjustment is.

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If you're interested in a "top-mount" intake manifold, I've made a few and have them for sale. It's mandrel bent 6061T6 alum, TIG welded to a CNC machined flange. The rearmost screw is replaced with a stud and nut. You can run a K&N or Uni.

Will work perfectly on any machine that does not use (or doesn't NEED) an upper motor mount. I designed and built the original for my son's Alpha 50 and it works great. Awesome for dunes, or muddy conditions. PM me if interested.

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