I did a thread search and found a lot of helpfull info on the clutch.
I just purchased a 93 for my daughter.
We took it out for the first time and it just never ran right, It has a carb problem that seems like it is not getting enough fuel. It will run good for about a minute then it bogs and eventually stalls like it is sucking the bowl dry or sucking something up into the jet. It will restart only on the choke but dies when you turn off the the choke. I pulled the fuel line and it runs fuel out . "it only works in prime" for some reason it will not open the vacuum diaphram. I pulled the carb apart and cleaned it as well as the filter in the tank and the petcock all looked ok. I will have to take her out and ride it again to see if it fixed any thing.

I decided to pull the clutch apart and check it. It had grease in it but it was solid. The cam plate, the basket and the rollers all had a lot of wear so I am going to replace them.
My question is how much wear is normal both inside the clutch and outside in the area were the belt rides. I noticed the fixed plate on the front clutch had some grooves and a slight iregular feel.
When and how often do you guys replace this stuff...I suppose it would have limits in the manual but that is on order with the rest of the parts from suzuki.
My other question was how do you get the starter out. I read about it being finicky and mine is kind of hit and miss. it works when it wants to so I wanted to check it while I had the clutch out, but it looks like you have to pull the front motor mount and lift it away from the frame to get the clearance to remove it..
The bike is mostly stock It has the ristrictors removed and a DG pipe!

Thanks for all the good info, your posts here are one of the reasons I selected the LT80.

Tim

 

Wecome to the ATVC forums Tim [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
I think you did the correct thing in cleaning the carb. It sounds to me like something is/was plugging a jet.
Clutchs:: The outside surely wears and wears a long time. To see it wore is normal.
The inside is the important part.As you seen the grease can get hard as a rock and the rollerd don't move. Sometimes this wears the inside on the hub and on the roller plate.Any wear/grooves/divots inside and I replace the part!
Yor correct on taking the starter out, remove the front bolt that holds the motor in and raise the motor a lil bit. The starter should come out.
Have a great day. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

Tim , the Banshee petcock fits beautifully and costs $27. I was skeptical of this, but it really worked. you lose the vacuum feature (just plug it off), but you get reserve setting.

starter you pretty well hit bang on. you have to remove carb aswell. then it's a real treat to try and twist and angle it around to get it out. I found standing my quad on end made it a bit easier to see and get at. I was able to replace the brush plate (thru Suzuki) for a fraction of the cost of a new starter.

also, i highly recommend adding the pull-start option, costs about $80-100 and bolts on in seconds.

this is the place to ask your Suzuki Qs. LT80 is really helpful and patient. some of us others can help out too.

 

Thanks for the replies

I got the part number from a previous post of yours on the banshee petcock, I was going to give the stock petcock one more chance. I am planning on taking a vacuum gage next time to see if the carb is making any vacuum on the port, on the bench the petcock flows when you suck on the vacuum line. If not it is down to the yami dealer.

LT80 appears to be the undisputed King of the little quad on this board.

I think I might just replace the outer fixed drive sheave "I think thats what they call it" It is the most expensive part of the front clutch. It is not worn too bad but that way all the parts are new and I wont have to think about again until she starts to race. "Hey a dad can hope".

thanks guys

 

the outer sheave? is that the one with the rollers in it? the one with the rollers can get ridges or grooves worn in it. then you need to replace the sheave, back cover that holds in the rollers (assuming it also has grooves/ridges worn in it... which it often does), and the rollers.

 

Is there a way to buy the clutch shoes for the LT80 clutch? The pads on mine are cooked. The dealer only sells the whole clutch as a unit, but it seems like the must be an aftermarket source. Just to give you some background, I just bought a used LT 80, and I'm spending a little bit more than I'd hoped. Luckily I got the machine for $300, so I'm still ahead of the game after all I've done. So far I've done: New top end(bottomwill need it soon), wheel bearings(shot), steering stem bushing(shot), reeds(upgrade), slide for carb(shot), and various odds and ends.Total on parts is still under $300, but I'd like to keep the clutch work under $100. My daughter is a pretty timid rider, but I don't want to have to do this more than once.
One other question, if I go with a racing clutch, or do the mods myself, will the bike still be able to be ridden by a beginner (putting around)?

 

i got mine for $450 (Cdn) and spent over $1000 getting it up to snuff. hope your project is kinder.

i see we have another similarity; the mighty mite. owned mine for a month and it was JUNK.

 

Clutch mods do very little till you have a motor to turn it. Your daughter will be fine. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

Thanks for the replies. I ended up replacing the clutch, hub (that it grabs), bearings, belt, and the front roller cage. The rollers surprisingly didn't have any flat spots or dings, but the roller cage had some serious grooves worn in. The grand total came to $160 including shipping. Could have been worse I guess. The local dealer quoted me over $250 for the same parts. I used ronayers.com and saved a bunch. I used the online fiche at partsbandit to figure out which parts I needed. The guy at Ron Ayers said he will put an LT80 fiche online soon. We'll see. The parts list just got longer. I replaced the wheel bearings only to discover that they weren't the culprit and now I have to replace the bushings for the wheels. I did the steering bushing alreadiy, but I missed the others. Tack on another $60. I think I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
I'm actually not too worried about my daughter being able to handle the LT, she's already riding the PW80 I bought her. I'm more concerned about the ability to go at slow speeds through the woods.

 

I dont feel so bad about the price I paid for my 93 any more. I held out for one that looked well maintained and paid 1700. I looked at a lot of dog,s in the same price range. They really seem to hold value regardless of age.
So far I only have $200 into it for a front clutch and belt, a banshee petcock, and a gasket for the carb. The guy gave me an after market pipe and larger carb. an extra set of alum rims with sand tires, a kit to widen the front, and a full bottle of two stroke oil.

I finally got it going and I am not sure the carb is 100% though. the petcock never did work so i switched to the banshee, but it still runs uneven. If I lift the rear end off the ground and run it with no load it seems to hunt around at 3/4 throttle. not like it is running lean but just uneven..... ANY IDEA'S??

Looks like the kids are going to learn how to mud whamp this weekend. I think california is going to float away if it does not stop raining soon.

tim