yea they are tough to get out. the head will strip and then your screwed. i have drilled many a screw head off to get the pump off. built bubba a whole new quad, he's got a 05 eton viper with even a bigger stroker motor. man this thing has some stumo pulling power now, the 109 was strong but this thing makes a bunch more power than it. anybody wanna buy a slightly used stuffed 47mm stroker crank, LOL


Mark

 

How do you get it past the head and stator? It won't even move an 1/8 of an inch or less before it hits the head. As the matter of fact I even removed the bleeder screw and it still doesn't want to slide out.

 

The stator and head are a non-issue. If anything, you'd rub the cylinder.

I've had 2 or 3 people say they just cut the oil lines and plugged them. The only potential problem I can see with that is IF the pump locks up it will grind on the worm gear and get plastic shavings everywhere. Not sure what kind of damage that could cause. Most likely be to the stator though. Might be worth considering the risk.

Just my $.02.

 

had that problem before too. sounds crazy but heres what i do. take a pair of channel locks and grab it, break off as much as you can. it has a certain point where it will break. whats left will slide out.

Mark

 

Break what? I talking about getting the pump out from behind the cylinder and stator. I can't get the pump assembly out.

 

You need to remove the flywheel and stator to get the pump out. This is the reason most people just leve them in.

 

Thank you, HQR made it sound like I undo the two screws and the pump comes right out. I just zip tied carb vacuum nipples over the in/out takes.

TeamSRacing...Just waiting for the carb and intake...I drained the gas and oil...Mixed the fuel 36:1 for this first tank, just in case there's any regular fuel left in the tank. What ratio mix do you suggest for the carb I got from you, Koso pipe, and stock motor?

 

We run AMSOIL at 50:1, I do recommend the AMSOIL but I don't put down the other brands at all. What I do insist on is using a high quality oil and run it at the manufacturers' recommended ratio, some are as lean as 50:1 like the AMSOIL, others are as rich as 32:1 and many are in between. I'd stay away from the Honda/Yamaha/Suzuli/Kawasaki brands and go with something that is a true race oil.

Carb kit is on it's way, let me know if you need any help with it.

 

Thanks for all the help, especially TeamSRacing.

 

you do not have to remove the stator and flywheel to get the pump out. you do have to remove them to get the plastic gear and pin off but they can stay in. sorry i didnt explain it to you good enough but i have removed many, many of them so i do know how to do it. some do hit on the cylinder and some cylinders have a recessed area where the pump is and it will slide right out. on the ones with the recessed area on the cylinder all you have to do is take the 2 phillips screws out and slide the pump out. on the ones that dont have the recessed area on the cylinder there is 2 ways to do it, no. 1, take the cylinder off. no 2, grab the pump as i said with the channel locks and break as much of the pump off as you can, the part that hits on the cylinder will break off and whats left in the case will slide out without hitting the cylinder. as i said, done it many times it will work.

Mark