No I wasn't thinking of it that way. Aren't the pegs going to move with the rest of the atv as the suspension compresses? and the seat? I do understand the compression of the seat cushion would make a difference. He's asleep, so I'll measure and weigh him tomorrow.

I suppose I could cut down any seat foam to get him lower. But without already having one, I don't know how much is there to work with.

DH

 

The pegs are fixed to the frame. They do not move at all. We aren't talking about the comression of the seat cushion, we are talking about the compression of the rear spring. Under the back of the atv there is a spring, it bolts to the frame and to a part under the seat.

look at this
http://atvforums.com/i/GalleryImages/65729/mkII110.JPG

The spring is circled. That spring compresses when someone sits on the atv, so the heavier the person, the lower the seat goes which makes you closer to the pegs.

 

Maybe I'm losing my mind SolarEclipse, but I don't see that. I see the seat and the pegs BOTH being connected to the frame, which one end of the shock connects to, and with the rear swingarm and wheels connected to the other end. The seat does get close to the GROUND when the spring is compressed, but the relationship between the seat, pegs, bars all stay the same.

Another way to look at it, from your picture, it is the rear wheels that are all the move. That's the way my 4 wheeler and motorcycles work it seems to me. My pegs never get closer to my seat when the suspension works.

 

Yeah, its different for a full grown adult to sit on these things because we touch the pegs no matter what. You are right, the seat gets closer to the ground. That's what I was trying to point out. Your son sits on the quad, the spring compresses, the seat lowers, which lowers him closer to the pegs. Thats the way I see it work. When I sit on my 150, the seat lowers my rear goes down increasing the bend in my knees. See what I am getting at? It makes sense to me but still may be totally wrong, dunno.

 

Good luck on the new Kazuma! I own three, 50, 110, 150 and this is my advice:

Remove the steel create and put on the wheels to get it out off the crate. Drain the oil and don’t refill or install the battery. Remove the front and rear fenders and flip the bike backward so it’s standing on its rear wheels. Now the fenders are off and there is no oil in the engine you can really inspect the undercarriage and tighten all bolts. Look closely at the chain. I had to trim the engine chain cover to allow clearance on the chain when it stretched. When you’re done with the undercarriage flip the bike back on four wheels and go over the whole unit. Don’t forget to fill with oil. Make sure you open the air cleaner and oil the element. Also make sure the air cleaner fits tight on the carburetor and there are no leaks. I went as far as replacing the overflow hoses on the carburetor to longer ones that didn’t rub on the hot engine. Make sure there are no wires hanging and all connections are tight. Put fenders back on and install the battery. Now it’s time to re check the wheels you threw on to make sure they are on correctly, tight and have the correct tire pressure. Look at everything and make sure it tight before fueling and starting the unit. I would change the oil every 2 hours (only a half quart) until there is no metal chips in the drain oil. (3-4 times in a ten hour break in period) check all the bolts for tightness at every oil change and make sure the chain is correctly adjusted. Put it together right and break it in correctly and it will last a long time.

 

Good advise. I own two 150's and the time taken during assembly avoids a lot of the hassles down the road. Unfortunately a lot of people buying these atv's don't realize they are the dealer when they receive the atv in crate form. On any make or model, usually the dealer does some sort of quality control when uncrating and seting up the atv for sale. The Japanese manufacturers do have a better quality control system for catching loose bolts etc before their product is crated and shipped but thats part of the reason these knock off atvs are a lot less expensive. Again, when you recieve your atv, do all the quality control during set up and the kazuma should be a decent entry level atv for your son. Good luck and let us know how you make out.

 

Thanks guys, That is the exact type of information I was looking for. I'm going to do everything everyone has suggested. The MKII has already shipped, so that's what I'll have. Sizewize, it's just going to have to work. Yes, I appreciate the fact I'm getting an ATV in a crate, and everything a dealer would do with an incoming machine as far as setup, and adjustments are all up to me. And I want to do it right.

Thanks, I'll certainly be updating you on how things go, and will probably have some questions when the ATV arrives later this week.
DH

 

One more thing.. The owner manual tells you to put differential oil in the crankcase. This is wrong. Put 20w-50 oil in the crankcase. Differential oil is not used on the 110 engine.

 

One important thing, I hope you didn't order it from WickedRocket.com. Remember customer service is something to always look at when buying these ATVs online.

 

No, from HIGHRPMRACER.