in order to ride the trials, my state requires headlights that cast a beam 100' and a tail light visible from 100'. needless to say, the kazuma falcon 110's head lights don't suffice nor does it have a tail light.

i've eyed bullet light kits, but for $250 they seem a bit steep and don't address the tailight issue.

any suggestions????

 

harbor frieght sells a set of high intensity driving lights that are very compct and inexpensive as well. check a local parts store for a tail lamp assy. or you could order one for a dingo and put it on your 110.

 

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I'm not familur with the Kazuma brand and its factory stator output. Here's a few things to consider:

- To ensure the battery does NOT drain while driving, its total light wattage should remain under 80% of the stators "average" output. This leaves 20% to charge the battery and/or won't drain the battery at idle.

- Clear lens auto fog lights can be installed on the front. Some like 2 front lights and some like a single front light. For me and DRLs (Daytime Running Lights), I like 2 x front lights due to more light coverage. If a stator cannot support 2 lights, then one must run with 1 front light. MR16-20 and H3-xx automotive fog lights can be installed. If your ATV has a strong stator / power generation system, then go with low profile H3-35W lights. For a picture (of what we installed as extra reverse lights on our van), surf:
- Press Here -
- Press Here -

Note: If you feel you need 55watt lights, go with a larger light assembly. If it drains the battery too much, simply replace the H3-55W bulb with an H3-35 Watt bulb. Use a larger light assembly for more heat output with the 55w bulbs. If your factory stator is very low wattage, then install MR11-20W automotive fog lights. They are bright but may now meet the 100ft distance. However, they might.

For picture of MR11-20W auto fog lights, surf:
- Press Here -
If wondering, I installed these light assemblies on the front of our Pred-90, then down graded their included MR11-20W bulbs to MR11-10W bulbs. Thus, keeping 80% under our stator's MAX output of 32-35 watts. To me, 2x10Ws make excellent DRLs but only shine up to 20-25ft forward. Not even near safe enough for night time driving.

For wiring, run a fused 12 guage wire off the battery and into a manual off/on switch. This is often called "hard wired". I'm not too sure if the factory "front light" wiring will support 35W or even 55W bulbs. For me, I like using 12 guage wiring for outdoor 12V wire runs. If you want to use the factory front light off/on switch, simply cut this small wire (at its factory front light assembly) and attach it to a 12V 30A relay. Then, run a fused 12G wire from the battery to this Relay. And a 12G wire from the Relay to the new "stronger light" front lights - mounted on the front. The factory light assembly could be removed or left as inactive (your choice). This method will allow it to use its factory front lights off/on switch but does take some independant parallel wiring. Some folks are NOT comfortable doing this work.


For the tail light, visit your local automotive type store and purchase a new light light assembly. Something that fits in the space and has both brake and running (aka: tail) light capability. Most of these lights contain a singl 1157 bulb. Replace with 1157 conventional bulb with an 1157 LED bulb (red LED). If wondering, the LED bulb uses much less watts (compared to conventional 1157 bulb) and thus, allowing more 12V energy for the front lights (or to charge the battery). In other words, less strain on its stator system. Connect one tail light wire to the front headlight system (upstream switch side or upgrade relay side) and the other wire to your brake switch. The third wire in the tail light assembly is the ground wire.

For pictures, surf:
- Press here for wiring diagram 1 -
- Press Here for wiring diagram 2 -
- Press Here for our replacement tail light -
- Double front lights on our Pred-90 -



Hope this helps - if you are planning to install you own parts.

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I read your original post again.

LED lights can be seen from 100ft away. They are now used in many automobiles and thus, shine really good.

Headlights that shine 100ft? In other words, hits a fly on a wall 100 ft way. WOW! Those are very strong lights. Most motorcyles, snowmobiles and cars can't even shine 100ft away on their "low beam". Are you sure this footage distance is correct? In my area in the dark, H3-35watt lights are ok for slow speed trail riding, and H3-55 watt lights are for fast trail riding. If lights shine 100ft away, I wouldn't want to do a head on pass on a skinny trail with someone coming at me. His front lights would blind me. You may want to inquire if they meant "front lights that can be seen from 100ft away" as well.

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spike - i'm not making this up!!! here's the quote from the statutes:

(1) The ATV must have mounted on the front at least one headlight capable of casting a white beam for a distance of at least 100 feet directly ahead of the ATV.

(2) The ATV must have mounted on the rear at least one taillight capable of displaying a light that must be visible at a distance of at least 100 feet behind the ATV.

i thought it sounded a bit crazy as well......but the fine's $500!!!!

 

you could look on ebay and buy a rear light from like a blaster and also front replacement light

 

reconner,

Do you have to ride with your lights on all the time? If so follow spike99 directions to a tee. It would be bad to get stuck miles away from camp. Have you upgraded your pipe with a stamped USFS spark arrester? Or are you using a sparky? Be sure to verify state/federal regulations for the areas that you ride in.

I just did a headlight upgrade for my daughters quad only because one of the headlight assemblies broke. So here is what I did.

Walmart : Driving Light Kit $19.99
Kragen Auto Parts : Blue Toggle Switch. $6.00
Home Depot : Flat Aluminum Stock 1/8" Thick X 1" Wide X 36" in Length $5.63 (For Brackets)
Total $31.62. That's it.

By the way all parts made in China.

Now I looked up the rear tail light assembly for my quad the housing is $8.00 and the lens is also $8.00. Bulb 1157 and you can get that anywhere. Forgot to check on brake switch and relay. You can pick up at local auto parts store.

Now I did not have to do the rear taillight assembly, the quad already had it. If you want I can PM you with a list of places to look for your taillight if you cannot find locally. I am running the 55w H3 bulbs for now. I will run the 55w H3 until I see a need to down grade the bulb. Now Spike99 is correct on all the voltage and amperage outputs that you should conform to.

I didn't conform, as the lights will not get used that much. They are there just in case she needs them. She does not need them as daytime runners. She is not allowed to ride in front of me or by herself at all.... So the lights work fine for now. Have not had any issues with battery discharge. This is with the old and new lights. Have some pics if you need ideas. But do not use my method if you need to run your lights whenever you guys/gals are riding.

Took some voltage readings at idle 12.53 to 13.98 lights off. Lights on at idle voltage drops to 12.25 at the lowest point. Higher rev, quad not moving lights off 14.25 to 14.51. Now with lights on quad at higher rev not moving best it would pull 12.83 big differences. Not nearly enough to charge battery. But might get enough to keep it going. Sorry to all, I do not have a tach, or amp gauge to give more accurate readings. Only have volt meter. The manuals do not state what the stator amp output is. So I have no clue.

Good luck with your project.

Would like to here the out come of your light upgrade.
Maybe some pics too.

SB.

 

I'm a firm believer in DRLs (Daytime running lights). If they have them on motocycles, new autos and new snowmobiles, it must prove that DRLs do reduce accidents. Especially in dark bush trails (like ours). To me, 55W lights are great night driving. Two 55 watt lights if your stator system can support it. In my woods, there's a big safety push for DRLs (which are equivelant to 10W light output) and a push for "normal lights" be turned ON during the day. To me, this is a great idea. But front lights brigth enough to hit a fly on a wall 100 ft away sounds way too bright for me. Hope they are implying HIGH BEAMs and this strength and low beams at the approx 65 ft distance. Wonder if you can install a high and low beam system on your Kazuma? Thus, passing the 100 ft distance "test" and keep it on low beams for passing folks on the trails.


In my area, there was a political push to have all ATVs and all motocross bikes with a "must have" a speedo meter. From a white board, its a great idea. Many folks who are caught for speeding would often say, "gee - didn't know I was going that fast". Thus, push for speedo meters on all ATVs (even mini-ATVs). After meetings and meetings, they decided that if a ATV or mini comes with lights &/or speedometer, these parts must be working. Working at factory specs. If folks want to install speedometers and/or brighter or extra lights, then the owner "could if they wanted". Instead of putting pressure on the consumer (us), they decided to try and put pressure on their respective factories. It also helps when my local Mayor's kid has a motocross bike and he couldn't find a way to install front lights and a speedo meter on his bike. If he can't do it, how is the average consumer going to do it? Thus, that proposed trail law was dropped.

Long story short.... I'm sorry you have to find a way to install brighter lights &/or a tail light on your ATV. To me, having these items makes good safety sence but politically, "they" should chase after the ATV factories for these mandatory items, instead of us. I guess "they" are trying to find ways to make ATVs stay off your local trails. Installing lights can be done but installing a speedometer on bike that didn't come with one is much more complicated (and expensive). Hope they don't propose that trail law in your area too....

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Ha! We just tossed my son's falcon 110 lights in the trash! I think a flashlight taped to his helmet would have lit up the trail better [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

Does the 110 have a brake light switch on it? The 50 does not so I simply installed an red LED marker light off a trailer as a taillight. I soldered it into the head light system so that when the headlights come on so does that taillight.

Also, the statute reads to me the light has to be CAPABLE of shooting light 100ft, but does not have to actually do it in use. Meaning you can point it down - just like a properly adjusted headlight on a car or truck.