Did you check the wires from the coil to make sure they are not touching? Removing the tether will bypass the system.

 

Cool, at least I know this destroyed teather kill switch is not the issue. I notice that teh coild has the plug wire and the 2 smaller wires, That unit was dangling and not properly (from the factory) connected. Based on the series of deductions in this thread, would it be wise to start with replacing the coil and all the respective wires that come from it? Thanks much.

 

Did you check the fuse under the left side rear? Does this have a remote start. The fuses like to go every once in a while.

 

I did check the fuse and it was not blown. Could it be unseated? What and where is the remote control stop switch located that Bill mentioned? I'm going to call the SUNL dealer in the AM for parts and I'm thinking of asking for he coil and all wires including plug wire and then the handle bar switch. But I'm also wondering about that RC stop switch. Would any one of these 3 things have caused the sudden death of hiccupping, backfiring then die like we experienced? Thanks.

 

Is it not under warranty? I would call SunL and ask them what they can do. Do you have a remote kill for it. If so did you try to arm and disarm the remote? The remote kill box is under the left rear mounted to the frame behind the plastic.

 

How do I arm/disarm the remote kill box? YEs, I think the machine is stil under parts warranty. I need to call them today to see what they will send me for parts. Do I just click the on/off from the remote starter of do I disconnect (assuming I find it) the remote starter box under the rear left frame that you described?

 

I just went outside and looked for the remote box. Is it is black and square with a thin black wire? I armed the alarm and then dis-armed it and then tried to check for a spark and still nothing. Could this box be yet another item to add to the list of potentially defective parts causing no spark? Would this have caused the backfire and die syndrome? I'm getting so bummed at trying to determine the cause, let alone wondering if this machine will ever run again.

 

if you think sunl going to help you ,you're kidding yourself. they could care less about customer service, so don't expect much from them, the good news is that everything electrical and engine parts can be purchased from e-bay, kazuma and raceway, as a matter of fact i won't waste my time calling the sunl group, it will just pi-s you off , if it was me and i couldn't figure it out myself i'd call raceway, they'd be more than happy to help you out. as far as the remote switch box, it the the large box with an antanna wire coming out of it, i look at it when i was assembling the quads and it looks to be part of the electrical circuit and doesn't look like it can be remove easily. did you buy these atv's off of e-bay, it's the selling dealers responsibillty to provide warranty parts.

 

I can only help you with the frame problem. As Bill 2099 said, you need to put A rod into the frame, also A gusset from weld to weld. check out my fourm pic's, I have A Pic. on there that will give you the idea of what you need to do. Don't forget the rod inside the frame.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

yes, they were bought off the web from Texas. The dealer has sent me parts that I've needed but I am just not sure what to ask for with this dilema. Would this remote black box cause the problem? I intend to explain what happened to the dealer and hope the can diagnose the right fix but I'd also like to be able to suggest a few things like the coil and hadle bar switch to be swapped out. Do you think the coil is a good start?