Some good advice on this post..As stated those mods you did won't give you much if any power..A bigger carb is necessary for much of a power gain when switching to an open filter..The little stock carb just can't flow enough gas to keep up...A pipe will give you some more power for sure..Also you can add a bigger piston and cylinder to increase the engine size..Its really not that difficult to do..Some tuning of the clutch will be necessary after adding a pipe as the rpm range of the engine will be higher...Hetricks,WRH racing are both good places to go for advice or parts...If you compare the carb and pipe of your mini to an 80cc two stroke dirt bike you can see how badly the poor atv is restricted.

 

ok we race a highly modded eton and i build mini motors in my spare time. best bang for your buck. wrh pipe for predator with reverse, clutch kit which will include a new torque spring and newer higher rpm clutch springs. 5 to 6 gram rollers, no rev cdi for a predator with reverse, and a high compression head. all of these parts are bolt ons and will double your power. now if you add a good pipe with an expansion chamber you have to do the clutch kit and no rev cdi. with a pipe you move the power band up in the rpm range, you must change the cdi and clutching, and rollers to also move them up too. you can buy all these parts from wrh racing. he is the predator guru, his son races 3 of them. now the k & n on a stock carb is a jetting nughtmare, not worth it. go back to the stock air box untill you can afford a 20mm carb. you can buy better fifter material to put in the stock air box.

Mark

 

This is some of the stuff I ordered, but I think the roller weights are heavy yet and the carb needs more adjustments.

Clutch Springs RPM - 2000

Torque Spring RPM - 2000

Roller Weights 5.5g

Mini ATV Performance Exhaust

Round Main Jet 100

Uni Filter 3.5"x4", 1.5"

 

what exhaust is it. if it doesnt have an expansion chamber it is no better than the stock one. the 100 main is not big enough. as i said above putting a k&n or uni filter on a stock carb is a nightmare. the stock carb needs a strong air signal. you have opened up the exhaust and intake so you have lost that strong signal. also another problem with this set up is many times the float bowl will run out of fuel at wot then you have to drill the float needle seat bigger. i have been through all of this, about the time you think you have it right the temp drops 20 degrees amd it runs crappy. let me see if i can decsribe how it runs with this set up, takes off really good then just blubbers at wot and runs like crap. put the stock filter box back on and go up about 5 points on the stock main jet.. some of the pipes on ebay are junk, hopefully you didnt get one of them, some are good pipes. 2 best pipes out there are the wrh and hetrick. the wrh is his pipe, he owns the tooling for his pipes. the hetrick pipe is sold under many names. it is built by a pipe manufacture and sold to many that put their name on, the trinity pipe is this pipe too. give me more info on how it runs and i may be able to help you fine tune it.

Mark

 

The pipe in my pics is one of the cheap pipes you speak of, I guess.....

The current setup takes a while to spool-up to the powerband, but then.... way up in the high rpm's it screams

I have ridden a lot of dirt bikes where you can control shifting to hold the powerband.......that it where this auto setup sucks IMO cause It doesn't kick into power band till 25mph or maybe higher(hence my wanting to switch to lighter roller weights)

On the other hand this pipe doesn't provide much mid or low band power. The pipe is tuned real high if you know what I am saying


Thanks for all your input......Good info is hard to come by on these things

 

pipe looks like one of the better ones. if it is a koso it is a high rpm pipe. if the quad rolls about 10 feet then takes off good your rollers are too heavy. you can try taking one out and try it but i would not suggest leaving it that way.

Mark