Jinglong GY6 150cc Engine Questions
#1
Hey all,
Has anyone heard of the Jinglong GY6 150cc engines? My son's quad just arrived from ninetyniner99 (EBAY) based out of Vancouver, BC and sports one of these engines. I was curious about any problems or possibly how good this engine may be. As far as I know, it's a Honda clone engine, so hopefully it will be good. I haven't started it yet, I'm still doing the PDI.
Another question...is the gearbox's oil fill inlet the bolt on the rear of the casing, facing left (looking forward)? For those familiar withe the GY6 engine, this should be self explanatory I hope!!! I suspect the gearbox is filled to the inlet bolt with 90w gear oil...is this correct?
Also...the rear axle has the reverse gearbox located on it. Do I use the same 90w gear oil to fill it and how full should it be? Do I fill it using the breather tube located on the top, or remove the bolt that the breather tube is attached to?
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Bil Attridge
Has anyone heard of the Jinglong GY6 150cc engines? My son's quad just arrived from ninetyniner99 (EBAY) based out of Vancouver, BC and sports one of these engines. I was curious about any problems or possibly how good this engine may be. As far as I know, it's a Honda clone engine, so hopefully it will be good. I haven't started it yet, I'm still doing the PDI.
Another question...is the gearbox's oil fill inlet the bolt on the rear of the casing, facing left (looking forward)? For those familiar withe the GY6 engine, this should be self explanatory I hope!!! I suspect the gearbox is filled to the inlet bolt with 90w gear oil...is this correct?
Also...the rear axle has the reverse gearbox located on it. Do I use the same 90w gear oil to fill it and how full should it be? Do I fill it using the breather tube located on the top, or remove the bolt that the breather tube is attached to?
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Bil Attridge
#2
bilinvic,
I don't know much about the Jinglong GY6. But most of the GY6 engines made by the Chinese have been pretty reliable. Download this manual, it will save you alot of time when you need to tear into the engine. The manual is for a buggy with a GY6 installed in it. I guarantee it will save you when you need to make a repair or adjust your valves. GY6 Manual The manual will show you which bolts to remove to drain and fill the CVT final drive. As for your reverse gear box fill from the top. There should be a bolt on the bottom of the box to drain the oil. I use 80-90w gear oil in mine.
Good luck with your ATV set up.
SB.
I don't know much about the Jinglong GY6. But most of the GY6 engines made by the Chinese have been pretty reliable. Download this manual, it will save you alot of time when you need to tear into the engine. The manual is for a buggy with a GY6 installed in it. I guarantee it will save you when you need to make a repair or adjust your valves. GY6 Manual The manual will show you which bolts to remove to drain and fill the CVT final drive. As for your reverse gear box fill from the top. There should be a bolt on the bottom of the box to drain the oil. I use 80-90w gear oil in mine.
Good luck with your ATV set up.
SB.
#4
The GY6 is a very solid little motor. Go to Buggynews.com and you can find all sorts of modications for this motor/trans combination. They are used to power many of the offroad style Chinese go-karts, often pushing a 500lb machine with an adult in it to 40mph plus. I have one and it is very reliable.
As far as the rear gear box oil, I'd say you are correct. It's a bolt at the rear that you fill up to. 90W will work fine. On the buggies, it's a pain to get filled. I can't help you out with the reverse. The ones on the buggies just take grease.
As far as the rear gear box oil, I'd say you are correct. It's a bolt at the rear that you fill up to. 90W will work fine. On the buggies, it's a pain to get filled. I can't help you out with the reverse. The ones on the buggies just take grease.
#5
Your welcome.
You can fill it to the top if you want. If you do over fill the box, don't worry it won't hurt anything. The excess oil will drain out the tube. I fill mine to just before it gets to the top.
Good Luck.
SB.
You can fill it to the top if you want. If you do over fill the box, don't worry it won't hurt anything. The excess oil will drain out the tube. I fill mine to just before it gets to the top.
Good Luck.
SB.
#6
There is a picture right here showing where to add the gear oil.
http://www.scootdawg.com/page6
click this link and get the FREE 200 page GY6 Service Manual (21 mb)
GY6 scooter manual
(you may need to RIGHT CLICK and SAVE AS)
#7
Thanks again for your assistance...
Well, tonite I replaced all off the lubricants...
Starting from the rear...I drained the rear axle mounted reverse gearbox. A thick, dark brown sludge came out (This ATV has never been started yet, still brand new). I refilled the the reverse gearbox with 80w-90 extreme pressure gear oil to about 2/3 full. I will check it again after a couple of hours of use. Pretty straight forward except the drain and fill bolts were a bear to loosen up.
Thanks to your advice, I drained the CVT gearbox and refilled it with the same 80w-90 gear oil. I filled it until it flowed out the fill hole...not sure if that's 110 mils or not???
Last night I drained the engine oil using the right hand side bottom drain bolt (so I though) that houses the spring and oil filter screen. The engine is cast with ".75 litre" by the engine code "GY6". I assume this is the amount of oil that is needed to refill. I had a tough time getting even a half of litre of oil in (10w-40). I researched the net and looked at the online manual you guys provided me with. I discovered the real drain plug on the left side of the engine. Because I couldn't get all of the oil in last night, I thought that I hadn't completely drained the factory engine oil because I didn't use this drain. So...I drained out my new oil to start over again. I ran a small amount of kerosene through the fill plug to ensure I got all of the oil out. I tipped the bike in all directions to get all of the oil out. I put the drain bolt back in and went ahead refilling the engine with oil...I used 15w-40 this time...no particular reason, but my son's little 110c mini hummer calls for it, so I figure it won't hurt. After the engines are broken in, I will repace the oil with 100% synthetic oil. So anyways, I had a very hard time getting in 3/4 of a litre of oil again...I basically trickled in the oil so that it would flow into the engine. Even at this slow pace, the oil would keep flowing out the fill hole. I would turn the engine over with the kick start to get the oil flowing, and this would work a bit. Once there was about a half of litre of oil in the engine, I used the starter to turn the engine on for about 20 seconds to get the oil flowing throughout the engine so I could continue to try to get the .75 litre in. Again, this worked a bit, but everytime I unscrewed the fill plug, the oil would "burp" out oil making me think I have over filled the engine. Man, I was starting to get upset with this crazy procedure. I never did get all of the engine oil in, so I will check it again tomorrow...I managed to get about 700 mils in.
Now for the question...has anyone else had such a hard time performing an oil change on these GY6 150cc engines? This procedure is insane!!!
After running the engine for a few minutes and revving it up, I wanted to recheck the CVT gearbox oil level. I unscrewed the fill bolt a bit of oil came out which I'm sure is fine, but the gear oil almost looked white, I assume it was oil foam / bubbles.....is this normal?
Once again, I want to thank you all for your replies and any further advice and/or comments.
Bil Attridge
Well, tonite I replaced all off the lubricants...
Starting from the rear...I drained the rear axle mounted reverse gearbox. A thick, dark brown sludge came out (This ATV has never been started yet, still brand new). I refilled the the reverse gearbox with 80w-90 extreme pressure gear oil to about 2/3 full. I will check it again after a couple of hours of use. Pretty straight forward except the drain and fill bolts were a bear to loosen up.
Thanks to your advice, I drained the CVT gearbox and refilled it with the same 80w-90 gear oil. I filled it until it flowed out the fill hole...not sure if that's 110 mils or not???
Last night I drained the engine oil using the right hand side bottom drain bolt (so I though) that houses the spring and oil filter screen. The engine is cast with ".75 litre" by the engine code "GY6". I assume this is the amount of oil that is needed to refill. I had a tough time getting even a half of litre of oil in (10w-40). I researched the net and looked at the online manual you guys provided me with. I discovered the real drain plug on the left side of the engine. Because I couldn't get all of the oil in last night, I thought that I hadn't completely drained the factory engine oil because I didn't use this drain. So...I drained out my new oil to start over again. I ran a small amount of kerosene through the fill plug to ensure I got all of the oil out. I tipped the bike in all directions to get all of the oil out. I put the drain bolt back in and went ahead refilling the engine with oil...I used 15w-40 this time...no particular reason, but my son's little 110c mini hummer calls for it, so I figure it won't hurt. After the engines are broken in, I will repace the oil with 100% synthetic oil. So anyways, I had a very hard time getting in 3/4 of a litre of oil again...I basically trickled in the oil so that it would flow into the engine. Even at this slow pace, the oil would keep flowing out the fill hole. I would turn the engine over with the kick start to get the oil flowing, and this would work a bit. Once there was about a half of litre of oil in the engine, I used the starter to turn the engine on for about 20 seconds to get the oil flowing throughout the engine so I could continue to try to get the .75 litre in. Again, this worked a bit, but everytime I unscrewed the fill plug, the oil would "burp" out oil making me think I have over filled the engine. Man, I was starting to get upset with this crazy procedure. I never did get all of the engine oil in, so I will check it again tomorrow...I managed to get about 700 mils in.
Now for the question...has anyone else had such a hard time performing an oil change on these GY6 150cc engines? This procedure is insane!!!
After running the engine for a few minutes and revving it up, I wanted to recheck the CVT gearbox oil level. I unscrewed the fill bolt a bit of oil came out which I'm sure is fine, but the gear oil almost looked white, I assume it was oil foam / bubbles.....is this normal?
Once again, I want to thank you all for your replies and any further advice and/or comments.
Bil Attridge
Trending Topics
#8
I didn't do any of that. Also, I'm not sure that the marking on the casings means that's the engine oil capacity. I just filled it up and checked the dipstick. I ran a run of the mill 10w40 until it broke in and then ran synthetic. I haven't had any issues. Just fill it up, run it a bit, and recheck the level. You should be fine.
As far as the gearbox. I changed mine once and haven't checked it since. It appears to be fine.
As far as the gearbox. I changed mine once and haven't checked it since. It appears to be fine.
#9
I'm glad I read this thread because I am such a noob I had no idea that I was even supposed to change the gearbox oil and reverse gearbox oil on my Gy6 150cc. Well, the manual that came with the ATV actually said absolutely nothing about gearbox oil (or differential or final drive oil). I actually assumed that the engine oil somehow lubricated the gearbox as well. I guess I assumed wrong. I checked the picture that BigRic provided and mine definetely has those two same bolts on the gearbox. So, I should be putting 80w-90 gear oil in there? Should it be synthetic or not?
As a side note, when I drain the engine oil completely, I find it easy to put 0.75 litres of oil in there. When I check the dipstick after, it's at the appropriate level as well. After breaking it in, I used the Amsoil 4-stroke synthetic that says it's made for wet-clutch applications.
OffRoadNoob
As a side note, when I drain the engine oil completely, I find it easy to put 0.75 litres of oil in there. When I check the dipstick after, it's at the appropriate level as well. After breaking it in, I used the Amsoil 4-stroke synthetic that says it's made for wet-clutch applications.
OffRoadNoob
#10
dude
the engine oil not filling right is probably because the vent at the head and the crankcase are joined and should not be I had the same porob with my boys and when you run the engine it will actually build pressure and leak there disconnect the tubes and will fill right and work great
the engine oil not filling right is probably because the vent at the head and the crankcase are joined and should not be I had the same porob with my boys and when you run the engine it will actually build pressure and leak there disconnect the tubes and will fill right and work great


