[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-disgusted.gif[/img]I bought a aledgedly new coolster 3200 at an auction for my son at Christmas and have had nothing but problems. The bike was very hard to start and ran poorly when I got it. When I started looking closer I found that the bolts holding the carb to the intake were backing out/loose and the air adjustment and idle were way out. When I couldn't seem to get the recommended adjustments to help, I tried raising the needle one notch, thinking maybe the cold Michigan temps could be the problem. During that process I lost the clip at the bottom of the spring, not the c-clip on the needle but the large U shaped one. That led me to buy a new carb, seemed easy enough for $65 get a new clip and the rest of the carb for free. I figured the air and idle settings should be pretty close from the factory. Put it on and go.

Ok, so I installed the new carb, and I'm having the same problems: Very hard to start, rough idle, stall, rough all the way through w/o, back fires, stalls. I have changed the plug, checked fuel flow, and tried the basic adjustments to no avail. If anything I would say the plug looks rich, but not really bad either way. One other thing I noticed is that the cooling fan has never turned on, This is a water cooled engine I'm not sure if it has ever been hot enough or not.

Any advice would be great, as my son is still shaking is head a month after he got his bike.

 

take your gas cap off and see if there is a metal piece on the bottem. remove it. its the rollover device that in a roll it shuts off the gas from spilling out the breather. problem is it was made to big for the hole and sticks and cuts off the air flow and you have problems. this should fix it

 

takes less than 1 minute to do I will wait.LOL

 

I tried running it with the cap off, it didn't change at all[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img]

 

did you change the oil when you first bought it. was it brandnew when you got it? the is sometimes a gel pack in the carb to stop the flote from bouncing around. and there is a way to first start it
change oil first
start and let run 30 min.
shut off and change oil again
fill oil and your off to the races.

 

It was not brand new, it had been ridden before, but i don't know how much. I did change the oil for the first time. Then engine has run for more then 30 mins.

 

ok. how does the carb bolt to the motor? rubber boot with clamp or two bolts? I looked it up on the net but doesent show motor. might need a little bigger jets. I just got a 250 falcon and they were known for beeing jetted lean I went up 20 sizes and from a 110 main to a 130 main jet and it is night and day diffrence. when I first got ot you couldent stab the throttle or it would back fire and pop. very hard starting. since you have the old carb take the bowl off and see what size jets you have and let us know and we can give you a place to start. if its a 110. I would go to a 120 or 125 main jet. pilet is 38 I would go to a 40 or 42.

is it full of gas?

 

The carb has a rubber o-ring embedded in the flange where it bolts to the intake flange.

That's a good start. I'll be able to look at the needle size tomorrow. I hope that's all it is. I'm kinda worried about valves.

Yes gas is good.

 

I take it that it has two bolts that bolts carbto a alu. tube. check the intakealu. piece to see if it is cracked. they are prone to cracking creating a lean mix. get it running and shot carb cleaned at alu tube and conection of carb and see if it runs better. carb cleaner will clog or just give enough to richen the mix.

 

the main jet is stamped 104 and the needle is k2. the pilot jet is not marked