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Think a mechanic messed up ignition on my LT80.

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Old 04-06-2012, 10:39 PM
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Default Think a mechanic messed up ignition on my LT80.

I received an axle back in January from a member here (thanks,DAMONSQUAD) My father in law worked out a deal with a fellow to fix this one and one of his.

Even though the key was sent apparently they didnt use it or something. Now the thing will turn over even without the key in the ignition. I got it cranked today for about 1 minute then it went dead. I cannot get it to crank now. It turns over but thats it. Could something be wrong with the ignition to cause this?

I figured since it is turning over then that would indicate the ignition is working but maybe he messed with it and something isnt right. I told my father in law but he hasnt had a chance to call the guy. This happened today.

It is an LT80. 05 model i believe.
 
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Old 04-07-2012, 08:22 AM
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I've eliminated the key switch by twisting the 2 wires together. Better see if that's what he did.
I cannot see how he could have messed the ignition up...but....Better see if it's getting spark to the plug.
 
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Old 04-07-2012, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by LT80
I've eliminated the key switch by twisting the 2 wires together. Better see if that's what he did.
I cannot see how he could have messed the ignition up...but....Better see if it's getting spark to the plug.
I think that's maybe what he did. I can see a big red wirenut by lookin through the handlebars that I don't remember being there.

My father in law made the statement yesterday about the plug. He checked and said there was no spark to the plug.I asked if the spark plug needed replacing and he said no,there is no spark to it. He asked me to find a new ignition on the Internet. Since there is no spark to the plug does that mean the whole ignition is bad?

I figured if it was bad then there would be silence when I hit the electric start? Maybe that's separate from the ignition?
 
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Old 04-12-2012, 08:59 AM
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just remove the hood and make sure the two wires are connected, use a crimp on connector so you dont have to worry about a wire nut vibrating loose any more. that should clear up your problem

i'd send you a switch for free, but the parts quad i have that you got the rear axle off of didnt come with one i dont think. i will check today , if its there its yours, but dont get your hopes up because im pretty sure it wasnt there =(
 
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Old 04-13-2012, 09:15 PM
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Well,I figured it out. I did not realize there was a prime on the fuel switch. I knew it read something but I only knew on and reserve. Started watching YouTube videos and somebody mentioned prime.

Tried that and it fired right up. Damon quad has been giving me some tips. I sent him a PM but I have one last problem. The rear brake won't release. I can manually get down and pull the lever back away from the axle but if I mash the foot brake it won't release without pulling the lever back again. It looks like it has a spring down there but it isn't releasing on it's on. Advice?
 
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Old 04-13-2012, 09:19 PM
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Those manual rear brakes like to gum up or get rusty, best thing is to pull it apart, remove the pivot rod and clean it, then put some anti seize on it and reinstall, then the spring should be able to return it to the released position.
 
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Old 04-13-2012, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 95wolv
Those manual rear brakes like to gum up or get rusty, best thing is to pull it apart, remove the pivot rod and clean it, then put some anti seize on it and reinstall, then the spring should be able to return it to the released position.
So just take the cover off where the drum is spray or put anti seize? What is anti seize
 

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Old 04-13-2012, 10:08 PM
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The way the back brakes works is the arm the cable is attatched to rotates a shaft that has a double flat sided end where the brake shoes rest, the other end of the brake shoes sit on a round pivot point. when the arm moves, it rotates the flats, forcing the brakes shoes out into the drum, then when released, the spring pulls the arm back, letting the shoes drop back onto the flats. You will need to remove that rod the arm turns , probably polish it up to clean any dirt or rust off it, then lube it with anti sieze, this is a metallic based ( aluminum, copper or silver, depending on heat range) grease that prevents rust and keeps dissimiliar metals from galling or "siezing" to each other, hence the name anti sieze. This stuff also works great on nuts and bolts that tend to rust solid. Hope that clears it up for you. Any auto parts shop should carry it, i got a bottle of it at Menards, in the Auto parts section. A little goes a long way, dont glop it on !! and wear gloves, it is hard to get off your skin and clothes !!
 
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Old 04-14-2012, 08:33 PM
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Thanks. Will try that.
 
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Old 04-14-2012, 09:32 PM
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How do I get the rear brake drum off? I've taken the wheel off and the brake drum cover but I don't know how to get the brake drum off to get access to the brakes and stuff. It is all rusted in there from what I can see.

Also,I noticed there is no Drum cover gasket or Inner drum seal. There is an outer one. The grease fitting on the rear axle.....do I need to grease that or is it for that? Looks like a grease fitting.

Right now I have to figure how to get the brake drum off.
 


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