well...it's going into the crankcase so I'd replace if questionable...

 

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/wcj2wi9ec...QRECF2Wpa?dl=0

Here is a couple videos I shot last night. I double checked the piolet jet with the original and even cleaned and swapped the original back in. I removed the new fuel filter temp just to verify and replaced the line from the shutoff to the carb. Broke down the shutoff and made sure it was clean. Unplugged the tank vent line to make sure it wasn't plugged. None of that seemed to help much. It will start and run from 5-10 seconds and then die.

 

Then problem may not be a fuel or carb related problem. Manual calls for minimum 115psi compression,but in general anything lower than 100psi isn't good on these little 50 and 90 machines. If compression is ok,then could be an electrical breakdown. Again look at this free manual that has resistance specs on the stator and coil along with other trouble shooting checks that can at least help you narrow down the problem.http://docslide.us/documents/2003-po...e-manual1.html

 

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/8xu5yiolx...mZqPudw4a?dl=0

I put the old carb back on it tonight (soaked it overnight in chem-dip) but the float was angled down so I bent the tab up enough to level it out. Then it wouldn't start (original symptom). I put the new electric choke on it (would start and run for 5-8 seconds then die same as new carb). Then I tightened the air fuel mixture screw all the way in and it ideals now video above. Does not really like a load and dies. Originally if I got it started and got moving I could drive it for hours. Think I should bend the float back down? Or is this because of another issue? Just thought I would post the additional info and see if that ringed any bells.

 

Noticed you have a lot of slack on the thumb lever.Adjust the slack so that you only have about 1/8" at the thumb lever and see if it helps.Try a/f screw 3/4-1 turn out.

 

Removed the slack from the throttle didn't change anything other than no more slop in throttle. But as soon as I back the a/f screw out it wants to die. 1 turn out or less and it seems to idle but will will die as soon as you rev it. Also I notice even with it all the way in it only revs for the first 1/3 or so then cuts out.

 

Have you pulled the fuel line at the carb and verified that you have good fuel flow? If fuel flow is good and not just a trickle,I'd just get a new carb as cheap as they are especially after you've tinkered with the original one plus a $20 "rebuilt one" and still have problems. If that doesn't solve the problem then either compression or an electrical break down if you haven't ruled those out already.. Simple engines but everything has to work right.

 

""Originally if I got it started and got moving I could drive it for hours.""
OPT mentioned compression, What is your motor reading??
I think it could be lack of compression too..

 

That's what I've been thinking all along.. Especially after two carbs and doing the same thing and if if it's getting fuel.I've had several little 50s and 90s that would crank up and idle,but wouldn't take throttle and found either compression to be on the low side of around 90psi or so or a crank seal was leaking causing the problem.Might be wrong,might be right.

 

can you please let it idle for a bit and then pull the plug and get us a pic...it almost sounds like an overly rich condition...going in this direction due to A/F screw comments...I'd definitely check compression, but I'd also be curious about how the needle jet is assembled in the slide (I'm assuming that going from one carb to another you're moving the slide/needle/cable assembly...)


Curious that it runs better with the A/F screw all the way in...