Eton RXL-40E no spark
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09-24-2018, 07:15 PM
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Location: MD
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Eton RXL-40E no spark
This might be long winded but I tried to include everything I tested after a bunch of reading.
Quad ran just fine until it was shut off the last time. Since then it won't start. Figured it was no spark since pulling the spark plug and grounding to the frame or engine produced no spark. Tested spark plug on another quad and it sparks just fine. Could probably be replaced anyway but doesn't appear to the cause of the problem on the Eton. The starter spins over just fine if all the switches are set to where they should be. I can also try to pull start it but its a bit difficult to test when doing that so almost all testing has been done using the electric starter. Just pull starting it and grounding the spark plug to the frame produces no spark.
Battery is at 12+ volts. Fuse is good and has 12+ volts on both sides and has continuity.
Ignition switch
Red 12+ volts
Ground is .2 ohms measured to a ground screw on the frame. Analog meter (if I zeroed it correctly) drops to 0
Black white some voltage (0.x - 1 volt) when cranking
White 12+ volts when key is turned on
Tether switch is wired in and looks to work. Get the same results when I remove it and jump the wires. No crank when the tether cap is removed or the wires aren’t jumped. Cranks when cap is in place or wires are jumped.
Kill switch on handle bars appears to be good. You can crank when its on and can’t when its off. Starter button cranks engine when everything is set to on like it should be.
Remote kill is in place although there is no remote for it. I’ve removed it and jumped the wires with the same results.
4 wire CDI. Red/black, white/black, white/blue and black.
Red/black 12+ volts when ignition switch is on
White/black not sure what should be happening here but I think it gets some DC voltage when cranking
White/blue no ac volts when cranking. Meter only has 200 or 600 but figured I would see something when set to 200. Analog meter doesn’t budge either.
Black .3 ohms measured to ground screw on the frame. Analog meter (if I zeroed it correctly) drops to 0
Ignition coil is .5 ohms across the primary and 3.17 (at 20k on the meter) on the secondary. Analog shows closer to .1 on the primary and 3 (at RX 1K) on the secondary.
Tried these stator tests but didn’t get anywhere near these numbers (if anything at all) and my wiring is a different color so wasn’t sure if it was applicable. Link to tests no spark on eton
The stator tests as follows:
1. YOU MUST USE A DIGITAL OHM METER!!!
2. On the stator the ohm reading between the red wire with white stripe (could also be white wire with red stripe) AND the Black wire with white stripe (could be white wire with black stripe) should be about 1284 ohms for the ETON style (3 bolt fan) stators and 689 ohms for the Kasea, LRX and DRR (4 bolt fan) stators.
3. The red wire with white stripe (could also be white wire with red stripe) to ground should be about 447 ohms for the ETON style (3 bolt fan) stators and 112.7 ohms for the Kasea, LRX and DRR (4 bolt fan) stators.
4. The Black wire with white stripe (could be white wire with black stripe) to ground should be about 837 ohms for the ETON style (3 bolt fan) stators and 576 ohms for the Kasea, LRX and DRR (4 bolt fan) stators.
5. From the plastic connector with the three wires, confirm that the black lead has 0 resistance between the lead and the frame of the atv. That is the ground lead. Any noted resistance in the ground system means the ground is BAD. We recommend always adding a wire between the engine and the frame for a better ground.
NOTE That the total ohms for #3 and #4 are the same as the ohms in #2. That is because we but the resistance of the two coils in series and added the ohms.
I have also checked for AC voltage while cranking at the blue/yellow wire coming off the pickup coil and have nothing. The air gap could be adjusted down. Its a very loose .026” but I need a right angle screw driver or to rig up one to adjust it.
I found this and started testing but stopped after the first test since my wiring doesn't match. http://www.anythingatv.com/technical...s_Of_Spark.pdf
Wiring digram that seems to match this quad and what I've been using. http://www.anythingatv.com/images/WD_R40E.gif
I assume this points to the stator? Any further tests I should do or any other suggestions?
Quad ran just fine until it was shut off the last time. Since then it won't start. Figured it was no spark since pulling the spark plug and grounding to the frame or engine produced no spark. Tested spark plug on another quad and it sparks just fine. Could probably be replaced anyway but doesn't appear to the cause of the problem on the Eton. The starter spins over just fine if all the switches are set to where they should be. I can also try to pull start it but its a bit difficult to test when doing that so almost all testing has been done using the electric starter. Just pull starting it and grounding the spark plug to the frame produces no spark.
Battery is at 12+ volts. Fuse is good and has 12+ volts on both sides and has continuity.
Ignition switch
Red 12+ volts
Ground is .2 ohms measured to a ground screw on the frame. Analog meter (if I zeroed it correctly) drops to 0
Black white some voltage (0.x - 1 volt) when cranking
White 12+ volts when key is turned on
Tether switch is wired in and looks to work. Get the same results when I remove it and jump the wires. No crank when the tether cap is removed or the wires aren’t jumped. Cranks when cap is in place or wires are jumped.
Kill switch on handle bars appears to be good. You can crank when its on and can’t when its off. Starter button cranks engine when everything is set to on like it should be.
Remote kill is in place although there is no remote for it. I’ve removed it and jumped the wires with the same results.
4 wire CDI. Red/black, white/black, white/blue and black.
Red/black 12+ volts when ignition switch is on
White/black not sure what should be happening here but I think it gets some DC voltage when cranking
White/blue no ac volts when cranking. Meter only has 200 or 600 but figured I would see something when set to 200. Analog meter doesn’t budge either.
Black .3 ohms measured to ground screw on the frame. Analog meter (if I zeroed it correctly) drops to 0
Ignition coil is .5 ohms across the primary and 3.17 (at 20k on the meter) on the secondary. Analog shows closer to .1 on the primary and 3 (at RX 1K) on the secondary.
Tried these stator tests but didn’t get anywhere near these numbers (if anything at all) and my wiring is a different color so wasn’t sure if it was applicable. Link to tests no spark on eton
The stator tests as follows:
1. YOU MUST USE A DIGITAL OHM METER!!!
2. On the stator the ohm reading between the red wire with white stripe (could also be white wire with red stripe) AND the Black wire with white stripe (could be white wire with black stripe) should be about 1284 ohms for the ETON style (3 bolt fan) stators and 689 ohms for the Kasea, LRX and DRR (4 bolt fan) stators.
3. The red wire with white stripe (could also be white wire with red stripe) to ground should be about 447 ohms for the ETON style (3 bolt fan) stators and 112.7 ohms for the Kasea, LRX and DRR (4 bolt fan) stators.
4. The Black wire with white stripe (could be white wire with black stripe) to ground should be about 837 ohms for the ETON style (3 bolt fan) stators and 576 ohms for the Kasea, LRX and DRR (4 bolt fan) stators.
5. From the plastic connector with the three wires, confirm that the black lead has 0 resistance between the lead and the frame of the atv. That is the ground lead. Any noted resistance in the ground system means the ground is BAD. We recommend always adding a wire between the engine and the frame for a better ground.
NOTE That the total ohms for #3 and #4 are the same as the ohms in #2. That is because we but the resistance of the two coils in series and added the ohms.
I have also checked for AC voltage while cranking at the blue/yellow wire coming off the pickup coil and have nothing. The air gap could be adjusted down. Its a very loose .026” but I need a right angle screw driver or to rig up one to adjust it.
I found this and started testing but stopped after the first test since my wiring doesn't match. http://www.anythingatv.com/technical...s_Of_Spark.pdf
Wiring digram that seems to match this quad and what I've been using. http://www.anythingatv.com/images/WD_R40E.gif
I assume this points to the stator? Any further tests I should do or any other suggestions?
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