Cdaleracer, thanks for the tips. Couple ?'s. You said you like the grips, but I keep tearing up my hands on the Kill switch on one hand and throttle piece on the other side. How did you get around this? Maybe new bars solve the problem? I was thinking of getting grips with the rubber on the inside of the grip.

Also, How do you like the T2 bars? Thinking of getting some new ones and not sure what to get. Thanks again for all the info.

 

Hey thanks guys, rode for a couple hours today and started to get a better feel for the bike. It is TRUly fantastic! like a fargin ROCKET! I see that I need to bring the bars back a bit and adjust the thumb throttle and brake lever down and begin to dial in the suspenders. I remembered your observations about toe Awesome. Dealer said to take a square edge off the rear axle/wheel to adjust it, neat he said. They were fairly clueless however, unaware that crank and trans had seperate oil resevoirs. Also sent me away with tire pressures from 3psi-6.5! Also, I am having some significant oil dripping from an 'overflow' tube just above the battery on the shifter side. In a short inspection the tube seemed to come from the top of the left side(facing forward) frame 'spar', resevoir. I'm thinking they may have overfilled? I see I need to spend an afternoon getting to know this bike better! Anyway just little stuff. I could not love this thing any more.
Thanks cannondale!

 

Hey Sparky, I too am having some trouble with the throttle housing. I seem to wrap my thumb around it. I'm hoping adjusting the controls down in front will help. I thought today that I might break my thumb jumping with it this way. My clutch lever is down already and I'm not having any trouble with the kill switch. These bars do seem quite wide and i'm 6'2"!

 

GAR, All I done was loosen everything up and retorqued to specs. I asked my dealer about the tightness and he said that it already had the new bushings and to retorque everything. The suspension worked great afterwards. I do have the new spindles and complete tie rod assembly. These made a provement in overall handling, not that it was bad to begin with. My quads production # is in the 400's (I dont have my manual acessable), but I think 460 something. Do you know if they made these changes to the a-arms and pivots before or after this high of a production #. Guys,loosen up the 4 bolts on the kill button and rotate it up. I also swiched the places with the kill and start button so I wouldnt hit the kill button by mistake while riding? just a thought. I'm not tearing up my hand on the throttle side, but the angle of the lever and distance between the bottom of the housing and the lever seem wrong. It may just be me but it puts my wrist in an wierd position. Ive messed with it and seemed to have found an o.k. medium. The T2 bars are great. They give you a much better agressive possition than the tall stock ones. I have the CR Hi bend. You will have to do some modifications to use them though. The plastic peice that goes over the bars and houses the ignition swicth wont fit over the bigger diameter T2 bars. You will have to cut a hole in your fenders somewhere to mount the switch. Or do what I did and still be able to use the T2 bar pad and mount the ignition and a kill switch (not to be confused with the kill button) in the plastic piece and have a factory look! I didnt want to put a hole in my fenders. I cut up the plastic piece and drilled two holes in it for the bar clamp bolts to go through and placed it between the lower and upper mounts. The piece comes out from under the bar pad and down towards the tank. Kind of hard to explain but looks factory. I had to make a new hole in it for the switch, I couldnt use the stock hole location. This did take me a while to figure out and get it to look good. Over reving the engine will make the oil come out of the overflow tube, but I would check the level they may have overfilled it.

 

i test drove one and couldnt stand the stock handle bars. what do you guys think of them?

 

The power is more tractable, and there is alot more of it when compared with my 250R. Keep in mind though my 250R was stock. The motor pulls like a four-stroke with that great bottom end torque. It pulls hard all the way through the powerband with a pretty good hit going into the high end. The power is very snappy like a two-stoke, except you don't have to worry about it falling off the pipe. It revs very, very quickly with no hesitation. When you hit the throttle you better be ready to go. The EFI is really amazing, no choking and I don't get cramps from trying to start it in cold weather(no kickstarting). I never though a four-stroke motor could be this exciting to ride.

 

CdaleRacer, If you can torque to 35lbs on the pivots then you have the updates. I got the torque spec right from the factory because I didn't find it in the owners book. My frame is #261.

 

Well, I got my Nerfs, steering dampner and tether switch put on and I can't wait to try it out tomorrow. I also had the dealer set the Toe out to 0, hope this will help the handling some. Most things I read say "use toe-in 1/4" or 1/8", so I'm going on Cdaleracers advice on this one. I'll let you know how it works out.

Also, It appears camber or caster is off between the two wheels. Can I adjust this on the Cannibal? If so, what settings do you guys use?