Bass is only damaging if its in the higher SPLs. And ear damaging SPLs rarely occur in anything other than SPL comp vehicles or in vehicles of bass obsessed junkies like myself. BTW, two 15s are loud and in my car, it will suck the breath out and will not damage your ears. If I were to run low freq bass test tracks at full volume and stay in the car for about 5-10min, then yea, I might have some ear damage. But you dont go down the road listening to bass test tracks. You listen to music which has variations in freq pulse. Think of it as firing a gun. If you let loose 30 .357rds .5-1 sec apart, then your ears will ring for quite some time if you dont use ear plugs. There are things in your ears that are like valves. When exposed to a loud noise, the valves can shut down and thats what ringin is. The valves eventually reset and the ringing can stop. A loud enough noise will damage them and they will stay closed/damaged indefinately. High freqs are loud in volume and can damage your ears alot faster. Bass is damaging in SPL, sound pressure level. Its like high pressure. My old system in my bronco made it hard to breath cuz there was so much pressure on your body. But I never let it loose without plugs in, its not a risk worth taking.
Thats about as in depth as I want to go. I can explain it further, but itd take a while.

Bootboss, give me time to come up with a system design and Ill get back to you tonight. I need to check a few resources. In the mean time, I need you to go out to the jeep and take a few measurements. I need to know the overall measurements from side to side and from the top of the back seat to the hatch and how high the back seat is. I had an old jeep cherokee, but I dont think the measurements are the same for the two.

 

The jeep Grand cherokee has about 37 Cubic Feet in the cargo area. Dont really know exact messurments thow.

 

Head Unit: Kenwood Excelon – KDC-X579
This head unit plays MP3s and WMAs and will save you from buying a cd changer. I wish I went this route instead of the 10disc changer in the back. You can take a ton of cds and put them all on one cd as MP3s and save a lot of time and money. The people that have this unit have all been satisfied. I haven’t heard one complaint so far.
For the speakers, you have two choices. You can either go with full ranges or component systems. Full ranges are a package kind of deal. Everything in one speaker. The only ones worth considering are 3 way or 4-way. Its basically just giving each frequency range its own speaker to avoid distortion. Some speakers even have 5-eay setups, but they are 6x9s and I don’t think your jeep has those.
The other way to go, and in my opinion the best, is with component systems. Component systems separate all the speakers and sound a lot better. Most systems include 2-midranges, 2-tweeters, and 2 crossovers (a device that tells what frequency to go where).
I’d recommend a system that has a RMS at 200watts and peaks at 400. Both Rockford Fosgate and Alpine make some of the best ones for your money and both are very high quality. Ill try and get the model numbers for you. I think the RF is the Fanatic Q series and the Alpine is the Type-X. But I could be wrong.
For the subs, I recommend 400watt single voice coil subs. Again, I’d only recommend RF. Every sub I’ve ever owned was Fosgate and only one of them blew, but it was due to a lack of power before I was able to diagnose the problem. Every sub performed flawlessly and the ones I had years and years ago are still pounding in my friends cars. The people I do know with them THAT DON’T ABUSE THEM have never had one blow. Just to touch on that. You can buy the most expensive sub and blow it in a week. Abuse will destroy anything. Don’t abuse it and it wont break. Ive known people to go through sub after sub after sub over a few months and I have blown only one out of about 15-20subs. Because I take care of them.
Again, Ill get the model number. I know the Fosgate model is the Punch HE. There are a few other models from other manufacturers. Ill just have to look through my catalogues and check again for specifics.
For the amps, Id recommends only RF or Kicker. I need to do some calculations to figure out the right amps. Im pretty sure what youll need is a Kicker KX800.2 and a 800.4 for the comps. RF is a good choice, but Im trying to find the easiest way to match up the wattage. Plus, I know CBR carries those Kicker models because a friend just bought one of them not long ago.
You will definitely need a Capacitor to keep the car and the system running. I have 2 amps and only one cap. I should have 2 but Im only using half of my sub amp(the RF). Later on I plan on getting two more 12”s to throw in there. Then Ill get another cap.
Id recommend two 1farad caps with digital readouts. I got mine for 100….its also Fosgate.
That’s pretty much it for the basic equipment. The setup Im thinking of is relatively simple: 4-12” subs, 2 amps, 2 caps, and 2 component systems. I easily could fit in 4-12”s in the Cherokee so Im pretty sure theyd go in a Grand Cherokee.
Box design is something else all together. The wiring part is pretty simple. Well, it may not be from a new guys point of view, but its easy to walk through. And building the box shouldn’t be that hard if you or anyone in your family has the right tools and minimal construction skills.
Oh, and Id say...maybe, about $1500, not including the cost of materials, wire, cable, etc. If you do all the work youself, you can save hundreds. Ill see if I can find a single amp that would run all the equipment instead of needing two. That will cut down on cost by a few hundred depending on the amp.

 

2 12's and a 1000 watts does the j0b in my trunk

 

only 500$

 

I had 2-12s in my trunk at one point. each getting about 1100watts at the peak. Still not as loud as the 15"s. Bigger is better and more is better.

 

Thank you LethalAudio soooo much for going through all this trouble i really do apprecite it

im sure the system u suggested will be Sweet i cant wait till i have all of it in there i love bass anytime anywhere

so can i just buy all the stuff u said at that web site u gave me?

thanks again

 

Not a problem man, I enjoy doing this sort of thing. Its what Im known for.
CBRstereo should have just about everything you need. You can get wiring and stuff from Circut City or a local audio store.
If you want to save even more money and still have great sound. You can downgrade the comp system to a fanatic X, which is 140 watts and would require a smaller and cheaper amp. Thats the kind I got. Its plenty loud. And its survived too many installations to count, a wreck when I rolled my car, and all sorts of abuse for about 5 or 6 years.
If they dont have some of the equipment, let me know cuz I know where to get it for roughly the same price. I never pay retail.
And remember, if you need any help with box design or wiring or whatever, just drop me a line.

 

If you need any help on this subject i can help ya . I was in car audio for 8 years pro. 16 if you count novice work. I was mecp certified and have built the 8th loudest car in the pro 5000-up class at the iasca finals. We did a 167.4 with 12 -12s now this was in 1999 so im sure the record is much higher. We were going to use 2 kicker solobaric 15" which would have been over 170 db if i hadnt gotten out of the biz. I built a test box with one solo 12" with 800 true watts to it vented and it produced 151.5. So i would suggest going with a solo 12" and anywhere from 500-800 watts. You can make this a down fireing box vented and the only space it will take up in the jeep is that it will raise the floor in the rear up about 12".