tlc for new atv
#1
Hi! i'm a first time atv owner and just bought a new 2011 honda trx 250x that's black. i chose black coz it looks so much better than the red/black one and black is just my fave color.
Anyway, i was just wondering what the best way to take care of it? especially on protecting the plastic fenders from scratches? i know black are really prone to have scratches seen and all that so as much as possible, i'd like to at least lessen the chances of getting it really scratched and have it polished/shiny looking most of the time. Also, how about the best way to clean/wash it after its been through snow and mud?
appreciate advices to be given. thanks
Anyway, i was just wondering what the best way to take care of it? especially on protecting the plastic fenders from scratches? i know black are really prone to have scratches seen and all that so as much as possible, i'd like to at least lessen the chances of getting it really scratched and have it polished/shiny looking most of the time. Also, how about the best way to clean/wash it after its been through snow and mud?
appreciate advices to be given. thanks
#2
Scratches happen. Auto soap, sponge and a hose are fine. I've always used car wax on my plastics. I think it helps protect from the sun more than anything.
For light scratches, you can run a torch flame 6-8" off the plastics and it'll remove small scratches and help restore shine. Avoid the seats and stickers....(edit) errr or fuel tank.
For light scratches, you can run a torch flame 6-8" off the plastics and it'll remove small scratches and help restore shine. Avoid the seats and stickers....(edit) errr or fuel tank.
#3
After every ride, I powerwash my atv off- then I take a can of that tire foam clean / shine spray and cover every inch of that atv- hitting all the hoses, wires, fenders and handlebar cables. The atv looks like a big white foam ball- and I let it sit for 15-20 minutes and then use a clean cotton rag and wipe off the speedo lens, seat and lights. There's really not too much you can do about the scratches- but if you get a lot of really fine scratches- a heat gun placed about 3" away will make those fine scratches invisable- keep the heat gun moving!
And never wipe your lens of with a dry glove or paper towels- it'll scratch. Use wet cotton rags / towels only!
I've never seen an all black 250x- post a pic of the new ATV
And never wipe your lens of with a dry glove or paper towels- it'll scratch. Use wet cotton rags / towels only!
I've never seen an all black 250x- post a pic of the new ATV
#5
Kut, Like Raptor said, it's going to get scratched. You do plan to ride it, right? It's not a show piece (hope it's not). Personally, I'd avoid the powerwasher route in favor of warm water hose if possible. If you're careful they're great, but with warm water and some purple stuff it will cut the clay and crap real good.
#6
I wash mine and dry it then I use pledge perferably orange scent but lemon would be a close second to polish it. It will bring the shine to showroom condition. Also I have read it but not tried it myself, they say to spray pam on the under side of the fenders and wipe in. It may take a few treatment to "condition" the plastic but it will help a ton with the mud or snow sticking to the fenders on the bottom side!
#7
Kut, Like Raptor said, it's going to get scratched. You do plan to ride it, right? It's not a show piece (hope it's not). Personally, I'd avoid the powerwasher route in favor of warm water hose if possible. If you're careful they're great, but with warm water and some purple stuff it will cut the clay and crap real good.
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#8
It has enough pressure to blow water into places you don't want it, like inside the CV joints. You can even blow decals off like my friend did.
#9
powerwashing will blow off decals for sure and some riders feel it'll force water into seals and contaminate oil. This might've been the case on older atv's- but I don't feel it's a problem with the newer atv's.
I personally have been power washing every one of my atv's after every ride for over a dozen years, and have never experienced problems, any premature seal / bearing wear or oil contamination. But that's just my personal experience with it. I actually have a dedicated power washer set up just for my atv's & boat.
Here in new england- a hose won't remove the weeds and mud packed into your a-arms, in between the chassis armor, from behind the radiator and all the swamp grass wedged into the motor. It would literally take me 5 hours to use a hose.
if you do use a power washer, use a #35 or #40 fan tip. Like mentioned above, P.washing will blow off decals and etch the plastic if you get too close to it (within 2") I stay 6"-12" away with a #40 tip works real good. Then I just spray the entire atv top & bottom with tire foam and walk away- my atv's always look good as new (and I've never in my life had to replace a bearing or seal... yet)
I personally have been power washing every one of my atv's after every ride for over a dozen years, and have never experienced problems, any premature seal / bearing wear or oil contamination. But that's just my personal experience with it. I actually have a dedicated power washer set up just for my atv's & boat.
Here in new england- a hose won't remove the weeds and mud packed into your a-arms, in between the chassis armor, from behind the radiator and all the swamp grass wedged into the motor. It would literally take me 5 hours to use a hose.
if you do use a power washer, use a #35 or #40 fan tip. Like mentioned above, P.washing will blow off decals and etch the plastic if you get too close to it (within 2") I stay 6"-12" away with a #40 tip works real good. Then I just spray the entire atv top & bottom with tire foam and walk away- my atv's always look good as new (and I've never in my life had to replace a bearing or seal... yet)







