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Old May 12, 2000 | 07:46 AM
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Brandon, or OhtonRacing... Is it possible that when I put my timing advancer on that I could have shot the timing if I was not at Top Dead Center when I installed it? If so, how do I get back to stock? Is there marks on the flywheel that I need to adjust to the center of the cases? The service manual doesn't say how to adjust to see if I am in firing range...
 
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Old May 12, 2000 | 08:53 AM
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I'm not either but I can answer your question.

The timing on your ride is not adjustable in the sense like a car and distributor that you can get way out of timing.

The flywheel is keyed to a set spot, so that the flywheel will always be in time. The stator and pulse generator mounted to the backing plate is adjustable but usually only by about 10 degrees maximum one way or the other(advance or retarded).
So as long as you put the backing plate on correctly, your timing will be fine.( and the flywheel is properly installed with the woodruff key in place) It may require a slight tweak if you have a adjustable timing plate to set the degrees to the desired setting, but it should run regardless.
 
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Old May 12, 2000 | 10:29 AM
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Backcountry.. Thanks for the response and clearing that up for me.. That is a relief to know but now I must go in a new direction for why I can't fire it up.. I do have a proline timing advance plate, I just installed it. Have you ever heard of loading it up so bad that the case is full of fuel and won't start unless I drain it???
 
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Old May 12, 2000 | 11:51 AM
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I have seen a float stick and fill the entire bottom end with fuel. Literally when the bike was kicked fuel spewed out of everywhere. Hence, you should always turn your fuel petcock(is that like a gamecock?) to the off position.

Check that all of your connections are clean and intact. Check that no wires have gotten broken(continuity is good) during the installation process. Set the initial timing to around 4 degrees advanced to get it started and then go from there. I really don't know you're set-up but 4 degrees of advance will be safe to start with.

Good luck!!!
 
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Old May 12, 2000 | 12:33 PM
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You are getting a spark, correct? Where is your timing set? Pull the plugs and kick the engine over. If there is any thing in the cranckcase it will shoot out the plug holes. Is your plug getting wet? Have you tired the starter fluid? If you havent spray just a little in the carb while it is open and try it. Sometimes the engine needs a little jumpstart to get going after changing stuff around. Dont use the starter fluid more than what it takes to get it started ONCE. Make sure that the cases are dry first though. I would suggest putting the old single carb back on, just to narrow down the possibilities. Also, try to retard the timing some, maybe back to 0.
 
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Old May 13, 2000 | 10:07 AM
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Brandon, I put the single carb back on after cleaning it to make sure.. Good spark, nice a blue. Put timing back to 0 degrees to double check and tried starting with the plugs out to clear the cylinders. Pulled carb back off and reeds out and stood bike up to see if anything came out of cylinder. A little fuel out of one of the cylinders. Will try the starter fluid today after I get some from the hardware store. A friend claims that we need to get the dial indicator on it to see what the timing is but Backcountry said it's impossible for my timing to be farther than plus or minus 10 degrees out, so... what do you think?
 
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Old May 13, 2000 | 11:08 AM
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It wont hurt to use the dial indicator, just to amke sure, but I agree with backcountry about the timing. You may have some fuel still down in the crankcase. This is puzzling me now! Let me mknow what happens after you try the starter fluid. Run it for a while, if it sounds clean and crisp, kill it and try to restart it.
 
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Old May 14, 2000 | 07:07 PM
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well.... I did it.... got it fired after using your idea for starting fluid... took a while, about 30 kicks before it fired and it sounded like, well pretty bad.. after about 5 more it would stay running but only on one cylinder.. changed 3 plugs and still won't light the right cylinder.. quite a bit of unburned fuel blew out the right cylinder from the front exhaust seal. I ripped the pipe off and more fuel came out the exhaust and I stood the bike up again to see if any more fuel comes out, not much but I figure it was enough. I am going to pull the head to check the piston to make sure there is no damage. I have a feeling it's ok and the cylinder was just full.. I managed all this with the timing back to 0 and using the single carb. I will post again after I check the cylinder and try to re-fire.
 
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Old May 14, 2000 | 09:55 PM
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It sounds like you may have tried this, but to be sure of draining the cases, pull the plugs and turn the bike completely upside down. As in on the seat and handelbars. Then with the plugs out pump the kickstart with your hand hard a number of times. Make sure the gas is off. If you are just putting the bike back on the grab bar that is not good enough. As for the timing, adding an adjustable plate, does not affect the flywheel, your just moving the pickup. The flywheel is not affected. Good luck Dave
 
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Old May 15, 2000 | 08:16 PM
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Houston we have lift off!!!!!!! Everyone who responded... Brandon, Backcountry and FourTraxXC. Thanks for all the tips... If you have been following my posts you know that my left side had been soaked..I managed to get it unclogged and in my hurry didn't tighten the flywheel bolt to the specified torque, waiting for a impact gun. It was tight but not enough. When it was running on two cylinders it came loose and pushed the key off the shaft and killed the motor. Pulled it apart and saw it sitting in the flywheel undamaged. Got my timing advanced 4 degrees and tried it with the single carb, fired on first kick and sounds good. Put the dual carbs back on and got it to fire when I held the throttle wide open, but it won't idle. Carbs are synched but it may be running rich 280 main and 30 pilot with needle at middle setting. Think I need to adjust carb slides so they are up higher to allow fuel through for a idle. Can't use the idle screw as I no longer have the TORS which had the screw in the cap. Does this sound right for adjusting the carb? I am pretty surpised if it is running to rich on the 280, I figured I would have to go up to 290 but won't know for sure until I get it idleing and plug checked wide open.. whew.....
 
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