Problem Banshee sound file---Please listen
#11
#16
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OhtonRacing,
Thanks for the checklist. I think that I've covered the first 4 that you mentioned with the exception of adjusting the floats.
On a very positive note, I put the 290's back in today since I did know that it would run pretty decent with them in. I also disconnected the TORS black box, but I noticed no change in the way the motor ran. I have changed several plugs, but not messed with the wires, so I cut the end of one and screwed it back into the the plug cap. I started it up and it sound and runs SO much better, but not perfect. Part of this is probably due to the jetting being off just a bit. LRD says 290 is exactly what I need. Guys with modified banshees around here are running them a lot leaner that that, like 220s and 240's in the case of pipes, cool heads, and other goodies. Somebody's wrong, I'm just not sure who. The following may be another reason it doesn't feel like it did before I started having problems.
I broke one of the cardinal rules of mechanicing. When I first started having problems, I adjusted my pipes (LRD) all the way back out for torque and I also put on a 13 tooth sproket.
Anyway, I'm giong to try and figure out why the key switch won't kill it and probably go ahead and put on a new coil since I'm running out of wires to trim. I probably won't mess with the jetting too much since I have a motofast pipe coming next week and will have to rejet for that anyway. Hopefully I'll figure out which kind of pipe works best for me.
I want to thank everybody for all of the help. At least it's rideable now! Hopefully I won't have to post any more between now and when I get the coil/start switch worked out.
Best Regards,
Scott
Thanks for the checklist. I think that I've covered the first 4 that you mentioned with the exception of adjusting the floats.
On a very positive note, I put the 290's back in today since I did know that it would run pretty decent with them in. I also disconnected the TORS black box, but I noticed no change in the way the motor ran. I have changed several plugs, but not messed with the wires, so I cut the end of one and screwed it back into the the plug cap. I started it up and it sound and runs SO much better, but not perfect. Part of this is probably due to the jetting being off just a bit. LRD says 290 is exactly what I need. Guys with modified banshees around here are running them a lot leaner that that, like 220s and 240's in the case of pipes, cool heads, and other goodies. Somebody's wrong, I'm just not sure who. The following may be another reason it doesn't feel like it did before I started having problems.
I broke one of the cardinal rules of mechanicing. When I first started having problems, I adjusted my pipes (LRD) all the way back out for torque and I also put on a 13 tooth sproket.
Anyway, I'm giong to try and figure out why the key switch won't kill it and probably go ahead and put on a new coil since I'm running out of wires to trim. I probably won't mess with the jetting too much since I have a motofast pipe coming next week and will have to rejet for that anyway. Hopefully I'll figure out which kind of pipe works best for me.
I want to thank everybody for all of the help. At least it's rideable now! Hopefully I won't have to post any more between now and when I get the coil/start switch worked out.
Best Regards,
Scott
#17
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It took a while, but in your last post I saw that you said it will not shut off with the key switch. I had a similar problem with mine. It was a bad CDI box, $360 later and it was fine. Now of course I have removed the key and everything electrical including lights and switches all that's left is the tether cord. Good luck.
eric
eric
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