Just got sled parts from Edmonton in 6 days, UPS Intl. Ground.

CT, LRD, Macdizzy

You'll only look to gain about 3-4 horses total so....if you do plan to do some more soon down the road, then yes it may be best to wait. But then again, what good is money if you don't spend it.

 

Zorro,

Your safest bet is to buy a set of Pro Design Cool Heads. For about $300.00 (U.S) you'll get the complete head with domes of your choice. The Cool Heads come with a great angle on the squish band. If you want to stick with pump gas I recommend 21cc domes. You absolutely will not detonate, but you will gain a significant performance boost. Stock Dome size is around 22cc's for an aftermarket Pro Design head.

Other than that get the V-Force Delta Reeds. For about $260.00 (U.S) They are supposed to add 2-3 peak horsepower. I can't really see a difference in peak horsepower, but the low end throttle response is definitely better with them. In fact my Banshee actually has adequate low end with all of my mods.

Remember the golden rule though. Your engine is only as good as your ability to get your power to the ground. The Banshee stock suspension is okay up to a certain point, but the more ponies you crank out the more of a beast she'll be to handle.

Slick

BTW... Don't run K&N Air filters. Don't take off your airbox. Don't use FMF Ram valves or reed spacers. Don't waste your money on aftermarket carbs unless you plan on making serious alterations to your porting, reed valve volumetric efficiency, and displacement.

 

Why "don't run K&N" ???????
And if I want more torque, why shouldn't I put reed spacers? I know the longer the intake is, th emore low end power you have...OK, it's better to have the most power...
Still, why no K&N??
If your reason is "foam filter work better", I can agree, I does make sense, BUT there's one thing that has to be added, foam filters work better than the K&N WHEN THEY ARE CLEAN.
And I'm p****** off at taking a gas shower after each ride...even witht he big rubber gloves, I stink, even after the shower!!!
If there's another reason, please tell me, caus I was planning to put a pro flow K&N with outerwear instead of the stock crap.

 

Zorro,

I know of an excellent machine shop in Missasgua, Ontario (not quite as far as CA, but still in your country).

They've built some serious engines for my '69 Mustang. Mike, the owner, has been on Speedvison quite a number of times. They are EXCELLENT guys to talk to. Not sure if they do much ATV stuff, but it's worth the call. I'm VERY pleased with the work they've done for me!

Again, it's in Missasgua, ON and the name of the place is Active Engines, Mike is the owner.

 

To answer you questions briefly.

Reed spacers reduce your crankcase volume and thereby reduce your crankcase compression ratio. By reducing your crankcase compression ratio you effectively reduce the pumping efficiency and you WILL lose horsepower across the board. The only time reed spacers are useful is when you have an engine specifically set up to be a torque modem with proper port timing and other changes. In all honesty they DO not work.

K&N Air filters flow well. They also leak like a seive. You're going to get far more dirt in your intake with K&N's then with foam. If you don't care about the reliability of your engine than go for it.

The new high performance foams flow just as well. Take a look at the K&N filter some time. It has a plastic top. Air doesn't flow through plastic. If you look at a foam filter its foam all the way around. The foam filters have as much surface area for airflow as the K&N's The "pleated" gauze is snake oil. K&N's are outdated. They were the hot ticket before the foam filters starting flowing well.

Good Luck. I'm done answering questions.

Slick

 

I still disagree that taking .070-.075 off the head is too much to still run pump gas. I've cut probable a 100 heads and never had a problem. Everyone keeps saying .075" is too much but have they ever had it done and checked the compression?

If you really are worried and want to make sure it is right then buy a billet head with 21cc domes as another post suggested. You should get around 170lbs compression which is safe to run pump gas. My fiance runs an Engine Trix billet head with 21cc domes. Probably the safest and best thing to do if you ever plan on running higher compression so you only have to change the domes.

Jeff

 

What deck heigth were the Banshee motors that you machined .075" from the gasket mating surface from???

I agree that 170-175 static cranking pressure would be about the max, even with "race" fuel. But, a two stroke's head and engine configuration is too dynamic to simply use compression to determine octane requirments.

 

It's been a couple years since I did one so I'm not sure what the deck height was. I will see if I can find out though. I know it was not 0 otherwise the squish would be too small. It might be a while but I will try and get the information.

As far as running a max of 175 lbs on race gas I don't think that is true. My cousin runs 210lbs on a banshee with a coolhead and runs race gas with no problems. Several people I know run over 200lbs compression with no problems. I run 215lbs in my honda with no problems. I know it is a different head design but still no problems. I may have misunderstood your reply but you can run higher than 175lbs compression on a banshee but you will need to run race gas to avoid detonation.

Jeff

 

Typically with twin, or more, cylindered engines cranking pressures don't have to be as high as a single cylinder. Most engines that I have seen have been set up to run at around 170-175 psi cranking. Other head factors required race gas to be ran.

 

Right. I agree that you can take that deep of a cut without hitting anything. It's just if you remove material from the gasket mating surface alone and don't recut anything else (squish), you'll be asking for trouble.

Good to see that you're back....