250r a arms on a 400ex???
#3
Aftermarket 250R a-arms WILL fit on a 400EX BUT you will have to cut the bushing area narrower to fit in the 400EXs narrower a-arm frame pockets. Also the 400EX knuckle has different angle attachments than the 250R, so you probably won't be able to get more than -5 degrees camber. I have 250R Burgard a-arms on my 400EX, and I have -4 camber without any binding. The a-arms came off my '86 250R, so I know whereof I speak. If you'd like, I can e-mail a picture of the 400Ex with the +2 a-arms on from the 250R.
#4
Thanks alot guys!! This forum blows away every forum I've ever been to. Answers quik and super nice people. thanks!! But Can you refresh my memory on camper...I think its like this right/ \ <--front wheels from front view (top would be toe settings) am I right?
#6
Whenever you forget what camber, caster, toe-in, toe-out is, just remember it this way:
1)When you're walking on the side of a hill, that's camber. Negative camber means the top of your wheels are closer together than the bottom.
2)Toe-in, toe-out: stand on your feet and move your toes in and out, same thing as your wheels (only the wheels are missing the toes). About 1/2" toe-in makes for good stability.
3) caster: the difference between the pivot point for the top of the steering knuckle and the bottom, or where your top a-arm attaches versus where the bottom a-arm attaches. If the top and bottom pivots are inline as you look from the top, you have zero or even caster. As the bottom pivot goes ahead of the top, you have negative caster, which makes the steering more stable at high speed, but looses some turning ability and quickness. As the top pivot point moves ahead of the bottom, you're getting positive caster, which gives you quicker steering, but looses some stability at high speeds.
Only the most expensive a-arms allow for caster adjustment, so you may not have to worry about that, but most aftermarket a-arms DO have camber adjustment. A good start for camber is -5 degrees for motocross, and even or zero for cross country.
1)When you're walking on the side of a hill, that's camber. Negative camber means the top of your wheels are closer together than the bottom.
2)Toe-in, toe-out: stand on your feet and move your toes in and out, same thing as your wheels (only the wheels are missing the toes). About 1/2" toe-in makes for good stability.
3) caster: the difference between the pivot point for the top of the steering knuckle and the bottom, or where your top a-arm attaches versus where the bottom a-arm attaches. If the top and bottom pivots are inline as you look from the top, you have zero or even caster. As the bottom pivot goes ahead of the top, you have negative caster, which makes the steering more stable at high speed, but looses some turning ability and quickness. As the top pivot point moves ahead of the bottom, you're getting positive caster, which gives you quicker steering, but looses some stability at high speeds.
Only the most expensive a-arms allow for caster adjustment, so you may not have to worry about that, but most aftermarket a-arms DO have camber adjustment. A good start for camber is -5 degrees for motocross, and even or zero for cross country.
#7
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#8
That's much easier, 400EX a-arms will bolt right on a 250R, any year. You will have to use spacers (correct size washers will do) to get a snug fit side-to-side, since the frame pocket for a-arms on the 250R are about 1/4" wider. Other than that, they'll work great.
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