BAnshee A arms and shocks
Mar 28, 2000 | 03:38 PM
#1
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Range Rover
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 113
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I tweaked a J arm and a shock on Saturday and am looking to upgrade. What does anyone recommend as far as brand, width, foreward set, and shock selection. This is for an 89' so my choices are fewer but I would also like adjustable camber/caster. So if you know of anybody that has this sort of thing let me know. I am leaning towards works triple rate steelers with rezzys. Thanks for the help. I ride mostly MX and some pleasure trails. This is for an 89' Banshee. thanks
Denton Racing has them, anybody know anything about them?
Denton Racing has them, anybody know anything about them?
Apr 1, 2000 | 11:38 PM
#2
Range Rover
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 108
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the works triple rate w/ res would probably suit your riding style just fine. as for a-arms, i just bought a pair from JD Performance. i couldn't believe the quality and looks i got w/ them for 450 bucks!!! give dave a call at (909) 676-7957.
Apr 4, 2000 | 11:24 PM
#4
Weekend Warrior
Joined: Apr 2000
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Howdy Eric. LTN talk. In fact, had it not been you, and a question about handling, I'd still not have re-registered to the new (well...) site.
Did I mention how pissed I was about loosing all the old archives? I see its the same old questions. But.... back then there were no decent answers to making a 'she handle. Here's what I had to do to get it right:
Used the nickled Shock Connection +2/+2 caster/camber adjustable shock. A little wide for a trail bike, but you can't get adjustable in the +1/+2. They are also a little heavy (are nickeled drawn mandrel steel). I was tempted to use Denton's, but opted to save the money.
If you get the right Douglas rim you can match stock rim offset (or use stock!) and this'll help pull the rim back in over the rotor and reduce the track width a little. Also puts torque of hits in over the rotor and so causes less shock, course deflection, etc.. I'd call it bump steer but that means something else eh?
Order the +3" ie rods and grind off about 1/16" (or as needed). This allow toe-in set when fully tightened in. Minimizes bending the weak Ball joint stems by having then screwed in all the way.
Not sure how it all works on a J' arm bike, weld in the tabs for the upper arm?
Set caster and camber to 5-6 degree's. Results:
+2 forward effectively stretched wheelbase (but leaves motor where it is, which equal motor farther back in wheelbase!). Bike is better balanced in air, tracks fine still ( note: the lower camber/caster numbers normally make a bike quick to turn)
+2Width is OK, wider is better...(not!) Ah well, I can use it in the UP ok, but it does get a little tight.
Weight: I've not cared a bit about the fact that the alloy denton's would have saved me a pound or two.
Turning: Finally this thing turns decent. Its a BIG diff. In everything except TIGHT mx I can leave the 310r's. , Always had the power ($$), the bike is always stable, and now it turns!
Net: After much unhappiness with the 'she's handling I can say its about perfect now. In fact, Its about a perfect hi-end XC machine now.
I've done little more to the machine since I left the forum. I "may" put in a rectifier to charge the battery and move the pia's over, but it all works as is...
see ya.
dan
Did I mention how pissed I was about loosing all the old archives? I see its the same old questions. But.... back then there were no decent answers to making a 'she handle. Here's what I had to do to get it right:
Used the nickled Shock Connection +2/+2 caster/camber adjustable shock. A little wide for a trail bike, but you can't get adjustable in the +1/+2. They are also a little heavy (are nickeled drawn mandrel steel). I was tempted to use Denton's, but opted to save the money.
If you get the right Douglas rim you can match stock rim offset (or use stock!) and this'll help pull the rim back in over the rotor and reduce the track width a little. Also puts torque of hits in over the rotor and so causes less shock, course deflection, etc.. I'd call it bump steer but that means something else eh?
Order the +3" ie rods and grind off about 1/16" (or as needed). This allow toe-in set when fully tightened in. Minimizes bending the weak Ball joint stems by having then screwed in all the way.
Not sure how it all works on a J' arm bike, weld in the tabs for the upper arm?
Set caster and camber to 5-6 degree's. Results:
+2 forward effectively stretched wheelbase (but leaves motor where it is, which equal motor farther back in wheelbase!). Bike is better balanced in air, tracks fine still ( note: the lower camber/caster numbers normally make a bike quick to turn)
+2Width is OK, wider is better...(not!) Ah well, I can use it in the UP ok, but it does get a little tight.
Weight: I've not cared a bit about the fact that the alloy denton's would have saved me a pound or two.
Turning: Finally this thing turns decent. Its a BIG diff. In everything except TIGHT mx I can leave the 310r's. , Always had the power ($$), the bike is always stable, and now it turns!
Net: After much unhappiness with the 'she's handling I can say its about perfect now. In fact, Its about a perfect hi-end XC machine now.
I've done little more to the machine since I left the forum. I "may" put in a rectifier to charge the battery and move the pia's over, but it all works as is...
see ya.
dan
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