Just bought a 92 Mojave, and it has one weak headlight run by a generator. Well, the only time I get a good solid beam is when I'm almost WOT. As soon as it idles, it cuts down to barely lite.

SO...

I wanted to add a small, ATV 12 volt battery, and wire that to the generator so it's at least be a LITTLE charged whenthe lights are not in use. I was going to add 2 30 watt headlights along with the stocker, one on each frt fender. I was also going to add another taillight (seeing as the stock one is GONE).

I need some suggestions on batteries, and how to go about wiring this mess up!!! I would LIKE to wire them all to the stock light switch on the handlebar if at all possible. Thanks for any help!!!

 

Call Ricky Startor. He probably has a kit for the Mojave.
www.rickystator.com 619-449-3905

 

Cleatus

Did you find any thing out? I have a 96 Mo and want to add extra lights. I thought I would just add two batteries (one for each light) and just charge them when I'm done riding. I made a rack with some plastic milk crates. I the smallest lights I found were at walmart, they are 35 watts.

How long will it take to run down a 19 amp hour battery with one 35 watt light?

I was going to try to do this a cheap as possible. I already have two extra batteries to use.

Chad

 

This is from the http://www.off-road.com/dunes/suzukitech/hotsetups.html website. It deals with Quadracer but the Kawasaki is similiar. The main point here is the output from your stock stator is AC current. You can not hook a battery to it or use it to charge until the voltage is converted to DC.

I just installed two lighting coils from Ricky Stator on my Zilla and I am VERY pleased ! Much better than stock!

Hope this helps!





<BLOCKQUOTE>
&lt;P align=left&gt;&lt;B&gt;&lt;A name=HOT&gt;HOT</A> LIGHTING SETUPS:&lt;/B&gt;<a href="#TABLE">&lt;IMG height=18 src="NAVBHOME.GIF" width=18 align=middle border=0&gt;</A>&lt;FONT color=#0000ff&gt;
&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;FONT color=#000000&gt;&lt;B&gt;STAGE I :UPGRADE YOUR STATOR!&lt;/B&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;FONT color=#0000ff&gt;&lt;B&gt; &lt;/B&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;If you like to ride at night, then your'e aware of the shortcomings of the Suzuki stock lighting system. The LT500 uses the same stator assembly as the LT250 which operates at a substantially higher RPM range. While the stock setup is adequate for the 250, you'll experience severe "yellowing" of the light on your 500, due to it's lower RPM range.
First you'll want to have your stator rewound. Contact <a href="http://members.aol.com/misterdune/where.html" #RICKY&gt;RICKY STATOR ATV LIGHTING SYSTEMS</A> in Santee, CA @ (619) 449-3905 and speak to Mike or Ricky. They charge $75 for a rewind. Your lighting coil output will go from about 100w @ full throttle to as much as 200w. Keep in mind however this DOES NOT mean you can run 200w worth of bulbs!
Your usable output is going to jump from about 60-70w to about 125w allowing those of you on a budget to upgrade your stock bulb from a 55/60w H4 to a 55/100w or perhaps even a 90/135w dramatically improving the performance of your stock light.
KEEP IN MIND:

&lt;/BLOCKQUOTE&gt;
&lt;BLOCKQUOTE&gt;
&lt;P align=left&gt;&lt;FONT color=#000000&gt;&lt;B&gt;&lt;A name=ST&gt;ST</A>AGE II :UPGRADE YOUR LIGHTS! &lt;/B&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;Theirs no accounting for personal taste, so choose a mounting location that will not expose your lights to damage. And don't buy cheap lights! you'll only be throwing your money away! the output of an atv's stator cannot match the battery of the car or truck that these lights were designed for. Low quality reflectors and lenses my get you by on your pickup, but on your quad you must have the best in order to to get any level of benefit.
The most sanitary setup I've seen for your lights is the one I designed For Ricky Stator.
It's an oval hoop that holds two Hella 500 <U>driving</U> lamps (don't use fog lamps they suck!).
It mounts to the same location as the stock light and can be installed in less than a hour. And it looks SWEET! Ricky can set you up with the hoop and the lights for $179 including shipping. The compromise with a light this size (about 7'') is that you loose some peripheral penetration compared to your stock beam. The straight ahead improvement is huge, so it's well worth what you give up in beam width.
If you want a wider beam you can go to a larger light (8"-9") like the Hella 2000 or 4000, Super Off Roader, Cibie Super Oscar or the ULTIMATE, PIA 8010. But, they look like hell mounted to your steering head , after you add a bracket to hold them, they will tower as much as as 10" above your bars. making them not only ugly but, prone to damage. I just completed a prototype bracket to chassis mount two PIA 8010's down low in front of the radiator (similar to Ricky's Banshee setup). It will use bicycle seat post quick releases to allow you to remove it during the day, to lessen the risk of damage (PIA 8010's are $150 each, ouch!!) and to improve radiator air flow during the hotter daylight hours. Ricky should have a production model available in a few months. &lt;/BLOCKQUOTE&gt;
&lt;BLOCKQUOTE&gt;
&lt;P align=left&gt;&lt;FONT color=#000000&gt;&lt;B&gt;STAGE III :ADD A BATTERY BACK UP!&lt;/B&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt; Tired of that annoying "yellow" light syndrome when your in the small dunes? Yea, your lights work great when your hauling *** in the big stuff, But, back off that throttle while your going downhill in the little stuff and HEY! who turned off the lights?
If you can do the work yourself you can add a battery for less than $200 and your lights will burn with the brightness of the sun! What you need to do is convert your electrical system from operating at 12v AC to 12v DC so you can charge the battery.
YOU'LL NEED:

&lt;/BLOCKQUOTE&gt;
&lt;BLOCKQUOTE&gt;
&lt;P align=left&gt;&lt;B&gt;SETTING IT ALL UP:&lt;/B&gt; The yellow wires from the stator go to the rectifier supplied by Ricky. The red wire from the rectifier goes to battery + and the black to battery-. Run a 10ga wire for your ground (- terminal to frame) and a 10ga wire from the +terminal to your fuse block ( mount your fuse block as close to the battery as possible, it's not a good idea to have an hot, unfused 10ga wire meandering around your frame). It's also a good idea to wire in a quick connect plug so you can hook up a charger while your bike sits at camp. this way come dark you'll be sure of a nice full charge. While you will be charging while you ride the demand of the lights at sustained low RPM will drain your battery much faster than you can charge.(If your battery does go dead, no worries your lights will still function normally)
Your all set! Wire up your lights, marker lamps, cigarette lighter, cell phone, you name it! The wiring can be as trick and complex (I have a custom brushed aluminum dash console mounted to my crossbar with an array of switches to control whip, marker, tail, main (Hella 500's), auxiliary w hi/lo beams(PIA 8010's have hi/lo 55/60w), ignition and a main battery power relay. I removed the OEM key switch from the little black case and adapted it to my switch panel). or as simple as wiring up the stock headlight switch to an inline fuse then to the battery. &lt;/BLOCKQUOTE&gt;