Spilling the Beans on Sportsman 700 and 800 EFI T-Bap wiring
#21
Interested in one of your harnesses bgafner@gmail.com
I am interested in one of your harnesses please email me with details.
Thanks Greg
bgafner@gmail.com
Thanks Greg
bgafner@gmail.com
Here is the lowdown on Polaris Sportsman 700-800 T-Bap wiring:
Symptoms of broken Temp/Baro sensor wires:
1. The ATV will run very erratic at idle.
2. The "CHECK ENGINE" will sometimes come on.
3. Diagnostic codes 41 and or 45 will be present.
4. Fuel mileage will be poor.
5. Exhaust will smell really rich. Sometimes even black smoke can be seen from it running so rich.
How to test if the Temp/Baro sensor wiring is broken:
1. Turn the key switch on and off 3 times leaving it on the 3rd time. This puts the ECU into diagnostic mode. If codes are present their numbers will be displayed on the instrument cluster. When all codes have been displayed "End" will appear on the cluster.
2. Remove the seat and locate the sensor on the air intake tube. Unplug the wiring to the sensor by pressing down on the tab on the top of the connector. DON'T PULL THE CONNECTOR BY IT'S WIRES!!! Pull back the vinyl tubing that covers the 4 wires going to the connector. Gently pull on each wire with your fingers. The wire should have no stretch and feel solid. All the wires should feel the same. If one or two of them feel weak and stretchy chances are you have a broken wire. Is what happens is the wire breaks inside the insulation so it appears to still be connected.
Why do the Temp/Baro sensor wires break in the first place?
1.The problem with the current Polaris wiring is too short and Polaris used 7/32 stranded 22AWG wire. This wire has a very low strand count and should not be used in applications where vibration occurs.
2.The next problem is the mounting location of the sensor it is in a vibration prone spot on top the air intake tube going from the air box to the throttle body. Next time you're bored take the seat off and rev it up in neutral. That intake boot and sensor vibrate to the point where it looks blurry. The combination of these engineering flaws causes the cable to break in a big hurry.
The Polaris repair kits keep breaking. Why?
1. The replacement kits from Polaris use the same 7/32 strand wire that can't withstand vibration.
How do I fix this damn problem once and for all:
1. After multiple replacement kits failing and multiple hack jobs to the replacement kits so I could go riding for the weekend I finally came up with a solution. I bought a pile of connectors and sockets and built my own repair harnesses using 65/36 18AWG wire with a thick silicone jacket. This wire is the same type of flexible wire used on things like multimeter leads. It is some really good stuff. Then I used sealed butt splices to connect my new harness to the factory harness. to anyone on here who needs one. PM me.
I am an electrical engineer who has access to these very hard to get connectors&sockets and would like to offer my significantly better solution than Polaris has at a less price. I'm certainly not planning on retiring on connector profits but would be happy to help other Sportsman EFI owners with this really annoying problem and have a little extra cash for my weekend wheeling trips would be nice.
Symptoms of broken Temp/Baro sensor wires:
1. The ATV will run very erratic at idle.
2. The "CHECK ENGINE" will sometimes come on.
3. Diagnostic codes 41 and or 45 will be present.
4. Fuel mileage will be poor.
5. Exhaust will smell really rich. Sometimes even black smoke can be seen from it running so rich.
How to test if the Temp/Baro sensor wiring is broken:
1. Turn the key switch on and off 3 times leaving it on the 3rd time. This puts the ECU into diagnostic mode. If codes are present their numbers will be displayed on the instrument cluster. When all codes have been displayed "End" will appear on the cluster.
2. Remove the seat and locate the sensor on the air intake tube. Unplug the wiring to the sensor by pressing down on the tab on the top of the connector. DON'T PULL THE CONNECTOR BY IT'S WIRES!!! Pull back the vinyl tubing that covers the 4 wires going to the connector. Gently pull on each wire with your fingers. The wire should have no stretch and feel solid. All the wires should feel the same. If one or two of them feel weak and stretchy chances are you have a broken wire. Is what happens is the wire breaks inside the insulation so it appears to still be connected.
Why do the Temp/Baro sensor wires break in the first place?
1.The problem with the current Polaris wiring is too short and Polaris used 7/32 stranded 22AWG wire. This wire has a very low strand count and should not be used in applications where vibration occurs.
2.The next problem is the mounting location of the sensor it is in a vibration prone spot on top the air intake tube going from the air box to the throttle body. Next time you're bored take the seat off and rev it up in neutral. That intake boot and sensor vibrate to the point where it looks blurry. The combination of these engineering flaws causes the cable to break in a big hurry.
The Polaris repair kits keep breaking. Why?
1. The replacement kits from Polaris use the same 7/32 strand wire that can't withstand vibration.
How do I fix this damn problem once and for all:
1. After multiple replacement kits failing and multiple hack jobs to the replacement kits so I could go riding for the weekend I finally came up with a solution. I bought a pile of connectors and sockets and built my own repair harnesses using 65/36 18AWG wire with a thick silicone jacket. This wire is the same type of flexible wire used on things like multimeter leads. It is some really good stuff. Then I used sealed butt splices to connect my new harness to the factory harness. to anyone on here who needs one. PM me.
I am an electrical engineer who has access to these very hard to get connectors&sockets and would like to offer my significantly better solution than Polaris has at a less price. I'm certainly not planning on retiring on connector profits but would be happy to help other Sportsman EFI owners with this really annoying problem and have a little extra cash for my weekend wheeling trips would be nice.
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#27
I have a question...I bought a new Polaris midsize 800 Ranger and right after I got it home it began having idle problems and running on 1 cylinder. I took it back to the dealer and naturally they couldn't find anything wrong with it but had codes (error code 0) (SPN# 105) (FMI# 3) They checked the wiring as did I and found nothing wrong. I brought it home and within 10 min it was doing it again. I ordered a new T-BAP sensor and that seemed to fix the problem for a few miles then again check engine light, bad idle ,dying and the usual problems. I read somewhere about cleaning them and I did this with brake cleaner. This fixed the problem for about 2 weeks then it happened again. I cleaned it this time and it worked for about a week then the same problem again. Now I have to clean it daily. Like I said the wires are ok and the connector is connected properly. Do you have any ideas?
#28
If they didn't hook it up to Digital Wrench sounds like this is what you need to do. If not you'd be chasing wiring problems for awhile.Speedo codes don't always reflect what the problem is as many are bogus codes to begin with. Tbap sensor harness wiring along with the Tps wiring were the main problems,if it is still a wiring problem and not a module problem..
#29
If they didn't hook it up to Digital Wrench sounds like this is what you need to do. If not you'd be chasing wiring problems for awhile.Speedo codes don't always reflect what the problem is as many are bogus codes to begin with. Tbap sensor harness wiring along with the Tps wiring were the main problems,if it is still a wiring problem and not a module problem..
Last night I came across something that was weird but for now has seemed to fix the problem. As I was checking the air filter I saw a bunch of blue grease where the filter was slid on inside the housing during assembly. There was an overabundance of this grease and it had sucked it about half way down the intake. This was the gunk I kept cleaning off the sensor. It must have been sucking bits of it off and fouling the sensor. I have rode it several miles since with no problems yet.
#30