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Spilling the Beans on Sportsman 700 and 800 EFI T-Bap wiring
Polaris Ask an Expert! In fond memory of Old Polaris Tech.An area where experts in their field will answer non-general questions about your Polaris ATV. "old polaris tech" and other experts will answer your questions as they have time.
ASK ALL GENERAL QUESTIONS OR BASIC QUESTIONS IN THE POLARIS FORUM. Basic or General questions posted in a expert section will be moved!
Bought a used 2004 700 Twin EFI two weeks ago. Ran great during test ride and only 2400 miles on it so thought it would make a nice addition to the hunting fleet. Load it on the trailer and haul it 90 miles home and show it to the hunting partners and wouldn't you know 2nd ride out across the stubble the dang thing won't move above 4200 rpm and acts like it's hitting a governor. What the heck? This is my first Polaris so not familiar at all with the nuances. Found this web site to be the most helpful resources on the web.
Following this site and comments by OPT, I found this after pulling the airbox out. Have a repair kit coming from OTB and am hoping it fixes the issue. Will update in a couple days.
im having codes 45 n 41 but id like to call you im working on it right now i can even send pics or we can video chat my number is 609-553-4608 and my name is Mike. thanks bud I hope to hear from you soon
Originally Posted by PolarisPile
Here is the lowdown on Polaris Sportsman 700-800 T-Bap wiring:
Symptoms of broken Temp/Baro sensor wires:
1. The ATV will run very erratic at idle.
2. The "CHECK ENGINE" will sometimes come on.
3. Diagnostic codes 41 and or 45 will be present.
4. Fuel mileage will be poor.
5. Exhaust will smell really rich. Sometimes even black smoke can be seen from it running so rich.
How to test if the Temp/Baro sensor wiring is broken:
1. Turn the key switch on and off 3 times leaving it on the 3rd time. This puts the ECU into diagnostic mode. If codes are present their numbers will be displayed on the instrument cluster. When all codes have been displayed "End" will appear on the cluster.
2. Remove the seat and locate the sensor on the air intake tube. Unplug the wiring to the sensor by pressing down on the tab on the top of the connector. DON'T PULL THE CONNECTOR BY IT'S WIRES!!! Pull back the vinyl tubing that covers the 4 wires going to the connector. Gently pull on each wire with your fingers. The wire should have no stretch and feel solid. All the wires should feel the same. If one or two of them feel weak and stretchy chances are you have a broken wire. Is what happens is the wire breaks inside the insulation so it appears to still be connected.
Why do the Temp/Baro sensor wires break in the first place?
1.The problem with the current Polaris wiring is too short and Polaris used 7/32 stranded 22AWG wire. This wire has a very low strand count and should not be used in applications where vibration occurs.
2.The next problem is the mounting location of the sensor it is in a vibration prone spot on top the air intake tube going from the air box to the throttle body. Next time you're bored take the seat off and rev it up in neutral. That intake boot and sensor vibrate to the point where it looks blurry. The combination of these engineering flaws causes the cable to break in a big hurry.
The Polaris repair kits keep breaking. Why?
1. The replacement kits from Polaris use the same 7/32 strand wire that can't withstand vibration.
How do I fix this damn problem once and for all:
1. After multiple replacement kits failing and multiple hack jobs to the replacement kits so I could go riding for the weekend I finally came up with a solution. I bought a pile of connectors and sockets and built my own repair harnesses using 65/36 18AWG wire with a thick silicone jacket. This wire is the same type of flexible wire used on things like multimeter leads. It is some really good stuff. Then I used sealed butt splices to connect my new harness to the factory harness. to anyone on here who needs one. PM me.
I am an electrical engineer who has access to these very hard to get connectors&sockets and would like to offer my significantly better solution than Polaris has at a less price. I'm certainly not planning on retiring on connector profits but would be happy to help other Sportsman EFI owners with this really annoying problem and have a little extra cash for my weekend wheeling trips would be nice.
Here is the lowdown on Polaris Sportsman 700-800 T-Bap wiring:
Symptoms of broken Temp/Baro sensor wires:
1. The ATV will run very erratic at idle.
2. The "CHECK ENGINE" will sometimes come on.
3. Diagnostic codes 41 and or 45 will be present.
4. Fuel mileage will be poor.
5. Exhaust will smell really rich. Sometimes even black smoke can be seen from it running so rich.
How to test if the Temp/Baro sensor wiring is broken:
1. Turn the key switch on and off 3 times leaving it on the 3rd time. This puts the ECU into diagnostic mode. If codes are present their numbers will be displayed on the instrument cluster. When all codes have been displayed "End" will appear on the cluster.
2. Remove the seat and locate the sensor on the air intake tube. Unplug the wiring to the sensor by pressing down on the tab on the top of the connector. DON'T PULL THE CONNECTOR BY IT'S WIRES!!! Pull back the vinyl tubing that covers the 4 wires going to the connector. Gently pull on each wire with your fingers. The wire should have no stretch and feel solid. All the wires should feel the same. If one or two of them feel weak and stretchy chances are you have a broken wire. Is what happens is the wire breaks inside the insulation so it appears to still be connected.
Why do the Temp/Baro sensor wires break in the first place?
1.The problem with the current Polaris wiring is too short and Polaris used 7/32 stranded 22AWG wire. This wire has a very low strand count and should not be used in applications where vibration occurs.
2.The next problem is the mounting location of the sensor it is in a vibration prone spot on top the air intake tube going from the air box to the throttle body. Next time you're bored take the seat off and rev it up in neutral. That intake boot and sensor vibrate to the point where it looks blurry. The combination of these engineering flaws causes the cable to break in a big hurry.
The Polaris repair kits keep breaking. Why?
1. The replacement kits from Polaris use the same 7/32 strand wire that can't withstand vibration.
How do I fix this damn problem once and for all:
1. After multiple replacement kits failing and multiple hack jobs to the replacement kits so I could go riding for the weekend I finally came up with a solution. I bought a pile of connectors and sockets and built my own repair harnesses using 65/36 18AWG wire with a thick silicone jacket. This wire is the same type of flexible wire used on things like multimeter leads. It is some really good stuff. Then I used sealed butt splices to connect my new harness to the factory harness. to anyone on here who needs one. PM me.
I am an electrical engineer who has access to these very hard to get connectors&sockets and would like to offer my significantly better solution than Polaris has at a less price. I'm certainly not planning on retiring on connector profits but would be happy to help other Sportsman EFI owners with this really annoying problem and have a little extra cash for my weekend wheeling trips would be nice.
So its been a long time sence someone has done any posting. So I am going to leave my fix for flash code 45 for someone who maybe trying to fix their ATV.
I have done a lot of research on this and tried different things to make it go AWAY!
So a very long story short I had purchased a new replacement plug for my T-BAP after the install i still had the same damn flash code 45. So today I had pulled all the plastic off and I was determined to resolve the problem today. I disconnected the battery and unplugged the ECM plug and started to Ohm out wires and feel every inch or wire. I have a repair manual (Polaris p#9918774) for my Polaris 2004.5 700 EFI strait from Polaris that I had used from the beginning of this whole thing over a year ago.
As per their schematic
Pin 2 (from tbap) should go to Pin 7 ECM and it should be PNK/W
Pin 4 (from tbap) should go to Pin 23 ECM and it should be PNK
What I found.
Pin 7 on ECM is Pnk
Pin 23 is Pnk/W
Instead of pulling the ECM plug apart and eject the pins from the ECM plug I just desoldered the TBAP plug wires and moved the:
TBAP Pin 2 wire to the PNK wire
TBAP Pin 4 wire to the PNK/W wire
IT IS FIXED! I have been fighting this BS for over a year to find out that is a problem from the factor!
Has anyone rewired the entire tbap circuit? I'm talking from the ecu plug to the sensor. It seems to me like there's a lot of extra wire length and potential chafe/pinch points that could be eliminated.
So its been a long time sence someone has done any posting. So I am going to leave my fix for flash code 45 for someone who maybe trying to fix their ATV.
I have done a lot of research on this and tried different things to make it go AWAY!
So a very long story short I had purchased a new replacement plug for my T-BAP after the install i still had the same damn flash code 45. So today I had pulled all the plastic off and I was determined to resolve the problem today. I disconnected the battery and unplugged the ECM plug and started to Ohm out wires and feel every inch or wire. I have a repair manual (Polaris p#9918774) for my Polaris 2004.5 700 EFI strait from Polaris that I had used from the beginning of this whole thing over a year ago.
As per their schematic
Pin 2 (from tbap) should go to Pin 7 ECM and it should be PNK/W
Pin 4 (from tbap) should go to Pin 23 ECM and it should be PNK
What I found.
Pin 7 on ECM is Pnk
Pin 23 is Pnk/W
Instead of pulling the ECM plug apart and eject the pins from the ECM plug I just desoldered the TBAP plug wires and moved the:
TBAP Pin 2 wire to the PNK wire
TBAP Pin 4 wire to the PNK/W wire
IT IS FIXED! I have been fighting this BS for over a year to find out that is a problem from the factor!
I hope this helps someone out there.
I just have to say thanks for posting :-)
Another success here , this Ranger 700 was at the dealers twice and gave up so I checked the ECM and T-BAP wiring and T-BAP wires 4, 2 needed to be swapped... now the engine revs and sounds much stronger and no code 45 , the T-BAP harness end was replaced in the past not sure why they never checked that first o well no worries for now.
lots of helpful info it's great to have a active site.
Oct 4, 2017 | 09:59 AM
