Here's the scoop-- have a 99 Sportsman 335 for a couple of years now. Up to this point, I've been impressed with overall reliability, performance, etc.

So...after deer hunting this year (and it running/starting perfectly)...it failed to start for no particular reason. Battery fine, cranked started great, etc. Spent some time diagnosing the basics, determined no spark.

After spending another weekend testing, poking & prodding-- and suspecting Stator issue, took it to Polaris dealer. So he confirmed stator is bad (apparently open at some point in the stator) and presented me with an $750 estimate for repair. After I recovered from the shock.....I retrieved the machine and a box full of parts (flywheel, stator, cover, etc) and am determined to fix on my own over the next couple of months.

So now I'm looking for advice on how to proceed. I'm a relatively inexperienced mechanic in the ATV world, but a fairly fast learner. Probably have all the tools, voltage testers, etc that I need to do it myself.

Advice on where to buy a new stator, whether it might be better to get the stator "rewound" by some one like Rickys, or ???

Also appreciate any advice on preferred repair manuals-- right now I don't have one.

Thanks for the help!

Trouble

 

Welcome to the forum! Try Rick's Stators OR Ricky Stators (two different places) can get some prices there,Plus be sure your flywheel magnets are secure and not loose! This was another cause for stators to go out when they slung pieces of magnets around! Later model flywheels have sealed magnets. Plus if you're a fast learner as you say a good shop manual or Clymer will explain a lot! Good luck OPT

 

Any opinion on getting a new one vs getting it rewound? I'm assuming if they recondition it, then they test it to factory specs.

Clymers a better manual than Haynes?

 

Is there any difference between specific models of 1999 Polaris Sportsman 335? I noticed on one site they list four different part numbers for the stator. Are those potentially differences in manufacturer dates and/or styles?

 

Sounds like you may have the substituted number flywheel replaced (At least on the parts breakdown does show one) Or you could have a later build stator? Best to give em your serial number located on the left front frame rail right behind the a-arm. I think it's on the frame rail or could be etched on the cross frame under the seat? Too long for me to remember on this one Plus if you get the manual you will have the stator and pickup coil specs and it may be something simple like the pick up is bad instead of the whole stator? Clymer manual to me is better than a Haynes,BUT if you can spend a few bucks more nothing beats the shop manual! OPT

 

Should get them later this week!

 

Hope it solves your problem OPT

 

So...haven't been able to find a manual yet that definitely covers 1999 Polaris Sportsman 335. Is the Sportsman 500 basically identical for that year except the displacement?

The challenge now will be correct re-assembly and routing of the wiring harness. And is there any adjustment/gap that I need to be doing on the flywheel?

I did find a decent "exploded" view of the 500 ignition system online-- doesn't look two challenging to reassemble. I do have an extra larger spacing washing-- but I don't see that on the diagram. Any idea where that belongs?

PS Bobbin replacement on the stator is going well-- good instructions for Ricky Stator, bobbins came out easily with a punch.

 

Essentially the 335 Sportsman is a dry sump engine like the 500 Sportsman (external oil tank) and the stator assembly has an external pulser coil along with the main stator. The stator mounting plate should have a mark on it that lines up with the mark at the top of the engine case for timing.(if you didn't remove the plate when you removed the bobbins,DON'T as there is an o-ring mounted on the plate that can become distorted and leak if you're not careful!) wiring color coding should be the same, just take your time! Pulser coil is pretty well set in the proper distance from the flywheel external magnet when the pulser bracket is mounted,but pulser can can be moved in a little if need be. OPT

 

Success-- overall saved me about $700 bucks over quoted mechanic price for Stator replacement.

Only real trouble that I ran into was getting the new bobbins back into the grooves on the stator. The tolerances were so tight (new bobbin connectors were slightly larger than existing grooves) that I ended up with some damage on the stator body grooves. Anyway, after finding the electrical diagram and getting a manual online, replaced everything, buttoned it back up and it works like a charm.

I do want to recommend Ricky Stator - Manufacturer of ATV & Dirt Bike Stators, Electrical Components, Lighting Systems and Suspension Products . The folks there answered questions promptly & courteously, ensured that I had the right part and were very professional overall.

Thanks to this forum for the HELP!!!

T.