I am hoping OPT will reply, but welcome all responses:

First problem I am having is that the atv starter doesn't want to turn over promptly. I believe the solenoid is clicking, but the starter isn't spinning every single time. Probably every 4th time it won't do anything so I let off and try again and it works fine. Battery is in great shape. Sometimes it will crank up 10 times in a row with zero problems noticed.

Second question - I have read you talk about the two different ignition systems. Mine is referred to as the 2004.5 model. Myself and 3 buddies all bought ours at the same time - the only apparent difference was that mine had an aluminum water pump cover and theirs had plastic water pump covers with a steel reinforcement plate around the outer edges. Anyway, how do I tell if I have the better ignition system?

Third issue is I am noticing a whine at high speed in high range. Never notice it running slower, just 45+ mph going down the road and such. Is this just typical or belt/bearings?

Overall, this has been a great bike - have I been lucky? Are there a multitude of hidden problems ready to get me with this model?

Waylan

 

I've noticed the starting problem on the 700 and 800s as you described,will start then seem to have trouble like not enough amperage to turn the starter over. You say the battery is great,but have you checked the charging,plus have you had the battery load tested?If the battery does check out,you could have a starter motor brushes wearing out,dirt, moisture,etc.causing the problem,plus solenoids do go out also. Best way to check the ignition and see if you have a separate coil and cdi module(Kokusan ignition) is to pop the front panel,easy to see. All 2002 models had the steel reinforcement water pump plate installed as a bulletin and were continued much the same way into the 2003 models. Can't remember when the metal water pump cover came out,but you have the best one! Most of the whine was transmission related that I encountered and didn't pose any great problems,just a little distracting. You could change the fluid and use Polaris AGL if you've been using something else? Plus you might check the drive shaft,especially the rear prop shaftu-joints and cv joints and rear hub bearings. Noise could be from there. Overall they were good machines once they got past the Ducati ignition problems. OPT
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Thanks.

The battery is about a year old and the original one lasted all the way up til then - which is kinda unbelievable in my experience. I'll check the battery, but I'm really leaning towards it being the starter. I just got a new oem starter off ebay for about $60 - almost makes it worth replacing instead of rebuilding. I also have a new solenoid at home that I've not put on yet - between the two I should be able to resolve that issue. Hopefully I've got the better ignition system.

So far, I've already replaced the intake boot between the carb in the intake manifold, one set of plugs, one rear wheel bearing, both front ball joints, and all tie rod ends on the steering linkage. Still running the original brake pads - bike has around 1600 miles on it.

One other problem I've had is that if I do alot of low speed stuff the bike wants to stumble out and die. I think the gas is getting hot and boiling from not enough cool air moving over the top of the engine. Have you seen this and do you know the fix?

I'll just deal with the whining - it's not that bad and noticable only at high speed like on the road.

Thanks again,

Waylan

 

Make sure the tank vent is completely open,no kinks or binds going into the head light pod area,plus 700s and 800s did run lean and some ran a little hot. Heard of some posters installing 800 exhaust manifolds on to help with exhaust flow? What also can be looked at is the fuel /air setting and richen it up. The adjuster is under the plug at the bottom front of the carb. When the plug is removed count the turns in until lightly seated. If less than 2 turns out,turn out to 2- 2 1/2 turns plus if you have access to a carb tool you can fine tune this adjuster screw. OPT

 

Thanks for the info. Do you HAVE to have a tool to adjust the carb? I guess what you are saying is some of them were lean on the bottom end of the carburetor range?

I have always thought it was heat sink to the fuel lines between the fuel tank and the head - the radiator fan will cycle on and off like normal (would think if overheating it would stay on). It will happen if just putting around - not pulling anything. Also, warm or cold, as long as the starter turns over right it fires up extremely easy. The other thing that made me think heat sink to fuel lines is I see insulation up there but wondered if it wasn't enough or if it was not in quite the right position.

A couple years ago I guess I overtightened my fuel cap and it cracked the threads. I cut the cracked portion off and flat filed the rest and got the cap to seal off ok. It's leaking again now and I have a replacement tank coming from ebay - so while replacing I may buy some extra insulation/heat tape and make sure everything is insulated sufficiently.

One last question - back when the 700 first came out several buddies lost engines on them - seems like it was crank or rod bearings. Some less than 100 miles. Did you ever see this and was it a big enough problem that polaris figured anything out? I was always nervous that it could happen to mine but it hasn't yet.

Anyway, thanks again for sharing your wealth of knowledge.

Waylan

 

Yes when they first came out I did rebuild a few engines because of thrown rods! Polaris never admitted to any problem but I suspected just a bad run of bad or soft bearings. Same thing happened on the early model 325 engines,the plain rod bearings were too soft and destroyed some cranks.Some under warranty,some not,but some even out of warranty I was able to get Polaris to authorize rebuilds.
As far as the "carb tool" you have to take the blocking plug out first,set it at a base setting of 2- 2 1/2 turns then the tool(just a curved adjustable screw driver) is short enough to fit under the carb and you adjust the fuel/air screw to best idle speed while engine is running. If you have a small short flat screw driver and small hands you may be able to reach it to adjust. OPT

 

I have the same issue with my starter that you had/have. What was the fix for this problem?

 

If you narrow the problem down to the starter,rather than tearing one apart to clean and install a new brush kit(which may or may not last)Here's a cheap place for new ones. DB Electrical - Sportsman