The needle jet is pressed into the upper part of the carb. The slide needle goes through this part. It also is held in place by the main jet and a brass washer. Once these are removed you can take a pin punch or a small punch and tap this jet up towards the top of the carb and pull it out. If fits only ONE way,has a small groove that lines up with notch in the bottom of the carb. Replace it from the top down and align the notch and seat it in place. Then replace the washer and main jet. OPT

 

Well I have had some success. I never removed that last part but rebuilt the carb doesn't **** fuel no more. Yay. Only thing now is it won't run good. Back fires and won't run steady. I am guessing I have to adjust the pilot air screw. I must be running to rich or too lean. Am I right in guessing this?

 

The normal setting on the air/fuel screw is between 1 to 2 turns out from a lightly seated position. Just turn out 2 turns and warm the engine up. At idle slowly turn in until you notice the engine rpm drop and back out until you reach the highest rpm at idle and see if takes the throttle without stumbling(counting the turns of the screw). This screw isn't as sensitive as a four stroke fuel/air screw adjustment. Plus the normal setting on the slide needle clip is the second position from the top. You can play with this and raise or lower the slide needle if needed to to help improve response. OPT

 

I tried you instructions. I can't get it to hold idle. It starts and I have to keep giving it gas. This I assumes means I don't have the idle stop at the right positio. It is hard to know a good start point with it because the manual says till it hits the slide but I cant see inside to know when it does. It still starts but I need to let it sit between attempts to make adjustments. I still haven't tried the needle adjustment yet. I will have to try that after the idle stop

 

Make sure the thumb throttle is snug(no more than 1/8" slack) and just turn the big idle screw in to raise the idle. On some of the old ones you may have to even remove the spring or cut a little off to allow the screw to extend further as the slide will wear at the point where the idle screw hits it and makes a groove. If this doesn't help on idle,you may have some other problems,crank seal leakage not allowing a good idle,low compression. The air/fuel screw if it's set anywhere between 1 to 2 turns should still allow an idle if everything else is ok. OPT

 

I have tried starting it recently and Its backfiring while Im pull starting it why would that be?

 

We've gone basically through the carb and the way the vent lines were originally hooked and carb settings, and rebuild, but think you might need to do a compression test if you haven't done so already on this 250 you just acquired. This is something I should have mentioned in the first post,but was concentrating only on your carb problem. Compression should be over 115 psi for this engine to run properly. OPT

 

Well it was the stupid spark plug. I checked it earlier but it seemed to be sparking good then I checked again after replacing some carb parts and notice it wasn't sparking constant. So I went looking for a plug to figure out the plug in there was the wrong one. It had an br8hs instead if an br8es nkg.

 

Wrong plug reach doesn't help any Glad you have it going now.Keep this handy. NGK Sparkplug Codes
OPT

 

Hi opt i was wondering if you could help me again since you are very good with machines. Do you know snowmobiles. Mine is not a Polaris but same principles should apply