Trying to replace both rear axles. Have the left side disassembled to the point that the inner u-joint is out, and the bolt that holds the yoke into the transmission is out. Now we can't get the yoke out. Tried PB Blaster, heat, and a 6lb slide hammer, but no luck so far. The RH axle bearing carrier and all is off, but the axle and yoke bolt is still in on the RH side. Do I need to get the RH yoke bolt out before the LH side will come out? You wouldn't think so...? Hoping that OPT or somebody is here today.....


The first photo is the LH axle yoke, and the second is the RH side still in.

 

Well,looks like it's stuck..This is a bad system on the first couple years of the Sportsman 500s. If you turn the other drive shaft bolt, chances are it will spin the spacer block that both drive shaft bolts connect into. Item #10. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse I've had this happen before on stuck ones on a couple and had to reinstall the bolt and remove the other side,while holding a wrench on the bolt on the offending side and keep tightening it as you loosen the other side. Once the opposite side comes out you can knock the bad shaft out. Hope you don't have to do this. I would try to keep working on the bad side,more heat,PB blaster,couple pry bars (you need a couple friends),while you use rapid jerks on the slide hammer. Once you get it out you'll see the spacer block. After my first experience with this set up,I removed both bolts at the same time just in case I had trouble with one side or the other.

 

When all else fails, I like this guys method. I did not know the 98 still used inner U-joints. Does the replacement have CV joints?

 

I've heard of some people ordering a 99 rear drive shaft as the hubs are the same on the 98 and 99,but the major difference is the 60 tooth rear splined gear that the drive shafts slip into. The 98 doesn't have the cutout for the circlip on the newer cv drive shafts. I don't know how you could keep one from pulling out unless you split the transmission and replaced it with the 99 gear. A lot of work and expensive!

 

Well, I let them soak overnight and went to work on them the next day. I ended up taking the u-joint apart/out at the RH yoke as well, so all I had left in there was the two yokes. Then I could take my DeWalt impact driver to take the yoke bolt out of the RH side, or attempt to. So I put the LH bolt back in (with lots of anti-seize on it) and tried to take out the RH bolt, but all it would do is just spin. So I took the LH bolt back out because I know your're supposed to leave one bolt attached to the spacer block. So on the RH side, I was beating on the yoke, and then spinning the bolt, and beating more on the yoke. After a little bit, I looked at the LH side, and that yoke had almost fallen out by itself! Damned thing. So I pulled the LH yoke out, and then found a hollow driver to drive out the spacer block and RH yoke.
They were rusted so bad, it's no wonder they wouldn't come out.
I ordered new axles from the CV Man, but I didn't realize that Polaris changed mid-year, and, of course, they are the CV axles. So if anybody needs them, I will sell them for a little bit below cost just to recoup some of what I spent on them.
Then I ordered a new set of rear axles for this '98, which cost me $500.
The new axles should be in next week. Can't wait to get this thing done and get rid of it! : )

Now we have stuck rear axles in 2010 Ranger 4x4 500 efi. I hate to ruin good axles to get them out, but it looks like we may have to.
Does everyone have this much trouble?

Here are some pics of the '98 sportsman 500

 

Here's a few more pics.
with a wirefeed welder, we make a lot of tools.

 

Welcome to my "ex" world! Glad you finally got the blame thing out. If you are in a lot of mud and water,doesn't take long for the shaft splines to rust and seize up. Seems they got a tad easier when the cv joints came out,but could still be a tough job to pull. Anti seize the new shafts up good. Your tool you made looked similar to the "J" adapter for my big Snap On slide hammer. This tool really aggravated my arthritis. Plus you didn't want to get any part of fingers or skin caught in between this monster..